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Post by gugne on May 28, 2023 19:22:05 GMT
Thanks H
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Post by gugne on May 29, 2023 11:37:48 GMT
Nah. Its not having it. Ive ordered a correct size die and some new nuts just in case they are fecked too.
Meanwhile ive been prepping the carb. Choke cable fitted. Started looking at tge jets. Found the main its a 100 (phbl 25 not 24 as i said earler) how do i remove the float to get to the pilot jet. Just pull it up until the float needle pops out or is there some other way. Dont want to break it ive shitted enough stuff for one weekend.
Also h recommended jets for a 24. Its a 25. Use the same or different ones?
Thanks.
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Post by henri on May 29, 2023 15:08:50 GMT
eh , no need to remove the floats to get to pilot jet . to remove floats an needle valve the pin float pivots on is pulled out ,can only go one way .H
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Post by gugne on May 29, 2023 20:30:51 GMT
Sorry H. Brainfade. I read 5mm thread and thought 5mm bolt. Even though its not even 5mm. Found it now.
Its a 25 phbl. Mazz crank. Polini sports exhaust. Polini mono head. Where to start with the jetting? Comes with 100 main and 43 pilot but all the websites are stating 102 and 70.
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Post by gugne on Jun 12, 2023 9:32:42 GMT
Arse. Crank thread is toast. Had to file the end to get the die on it. I've managed to get the thread going but I'm afraid there wont be enough length so Henry has been contacted about a replacement. As the engine was split I decided to match the ports to the Polini cylinder. Only needed a little bit but it should improve things. While it was split I also sprayed black the only bit of the engine that shows when it's fitted as I want as little silver as possible showing anywhere on this build
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Post by gugne on Jun 19, 2023 8:28:54 GMT
So I have a Crimaz 24 primary with cone to fit and it requires 50-70nm torques. The crank arrived and it seems to state that no more than 40nm should be used.
Or is that 40nm minimum?
I've found a NOS 24 Piaggio cog so I have a plan B but it seems weird that Crimaz should demand that high a torque setting when the crank thread can't take it.
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Post by henri on Jun 20, 2023 5:57:49 GMT
both my crank n clutch nuts go to 55nm , cant remember wot that is in lb/ft .H
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Post by gugne on Jul 3, 2023 8:40:34 GMT
Crank bearing fitted, crank fitted and engine buttoned up. Went in like silk this time. Piston and cylinder fitted Clutch and primary fitted. 55nm no problem. Crimaz pressure plate fitted Gasket fitted Clutch cover fitted Head fitted and torqued Inlet studs removed Malossi inlet fitted Rear backplate fitted Exhaust fitted and ready for the leakdown test Oh for fecks sake! leak from the exhaust flange! HENRI!!!!! Do I send it back to you or bang some jb weld on it? Anyway, not a bad 5 hours work. Pity about the exhaust I was on target to start the bugger. Ah well no rush, only have to do another one when this one's finished. Thanks for reading! Off to Italy next weekend for a while and get a chance to thrash my Pro Cup on twisty mountain roads in the baking sunshine! Can't wait!
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Post by gugne on Jul 3, 2023 8:42:58 GMT
Couple of questions as I'm doubting myself: Is that piston the right way round? Is the seal on the hub backplate mounted correctly? Thanks
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Post by henri on Jul 4, 2023 5:25:37 GMT
pistons on right ,arrow points to exhaust .but backplate seals back to front ,the spring always faces what your trying to keep in ,in this case gearbox oil . a blob of exhaust repair paste will do your exhaust leak ,or you could send to me an i'll blob a weld on it . but quicker to find a local welder ,with luck he will charge ya a pint .H
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Post by jonnysnatchsniffer on Jul 9, 2023 11:27:19 GMT
yep they are the honda plates but it is SAE90 and a damn fine clutch. i tried one of those pk type clutch centres with the ball dearing race as a starter also used the full set of springs, that was a mistake to hard on the wrist and after a short while the bearing was destroyed by the pressure of the springs. now using one of the low profile clutch centres with the roller bearings and two thrust plates. up to now i dont even know how long the plates will last as after a couple of thousands miles all is still as it should be. if fitting one of these get a handful of A4 stainless 15mm long torx screws with a flange head as they are a lower profile than the Allen screws supplied ( this makes fitting the clutch cover easier. why the carbon plates? are they less grabby than the oem honda plates i use? i used the hardest springs i could get which made it grabby as fuck and even with an xl2 cover and nylon cable it was quite a hand full, originally i used this clutch with a short arm cover, i prefered this to the xl2 cover with standard springs, its the fucking adjuster thats the problem as there are 3 types one for primmy one for pk and another for the xl2 so now all i find are the generic ones until i saw this ive gotta get me a couple of those
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Post by gugne on Aug 18, 2023 7:07:23 GMT
Well I'm back from Italy. Lovely time blasting around the twisties in hot sunshine. New jetting working better too! Back in the garage on Sunday to make some progress on the engine. Question- I'm putting the Parmakit fly and stator back on it but it has a new BGM loom so I have no photo reference for the connections. Does anyone know at least the basic connections enough to get the bugger started in the engine stand? I can come back to the other connections later.
TIA
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Post by henri on Aug 18, 2023 15:53:30 GMT
parmakit ignition , ok , IDM components then , 4 wire stator . usually 1 white or white/red trace low power output ,only used if doing DC stuff . yellow is high power to reg box , blue is earth to reg box . which leaves a red or black/red trace wire ,or even just black , this is lt coil output to big spade on cdi . to run in stand connect that wire too big spade , an a good earth wire to small spade on cdi . the earth is best clamped to a clean bit of cases , so unclamping gives you a killswitch .H
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Post by gugne on Aug 19, 2023 8:14:29 GMT
Thanks H.
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Post by gugne on Aug 21, 2023 8:56:03 GMT
So it's back in the garage to fit the exhaust that had a leak at the flange. Fitted... and still bloody leaking, so i mixed up a blob of JB weld and popped in on the leak. Also a leak from where one cylinder stud is showing. More jb weld. Plus another leak along the inside bend of the exhaust manifold where there's a sort of join. Lucky it's not a submarine! I left it to harden and went for lunch.
My other problem is the wiring. I've looked at what H said and it conflicts in some connections so I've done a diagram with the 4 unknowns that need solving- also a quick check of the diagram please!
Oh, also the blue from the stator that was taped up.
Finally, forgot to mention it's a new BGM loom.
I'VE DELETED THE DIAGRAM AND PUT A NEW ONE BELOW
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Post by gugne on Aug 22, 2023 10:31:29 GMT
Ok, I've had at look at some other info and I think this is the solution apart from 3 connections I'm not sure of: 1. The yellow should go to the reg box but that box has 2 yellow outlets. Do I connect it to the one with the kill wire on it, the other yellow, or link both yellows together so it doesn't matter? 2. The blue from the main loom- no idea where it goes 3. The blue from the small loom- same again- no bloody idea. On the last build I found that it did feck all so I taped it up and everything worked find. Anyway please have a look and if you spot a bollockup let me know. Thanks
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Post by henri on Aug 22, 2023 16:13:02 GMT
aargh , why did you delete what you'd drawn was it wrong . my earlier instructions where for generic idm component ignitions . but there usually the earlier 84mm diameter stators .parmakits can use the later 94mm dia stators an the wiring colour changes , an then theres the extra joker in the pack the italian malossi idm set ups where colours make sense . right from ya diagram it should spark an run an killswitch work . the yellows on sip vape reg boxes are common ,ones power in ones regged power out , an they need a damm good earth wire on a mounting bolt to body . no earth = no regulation , blue from stators the earth , pair that with a cdi small spade earth to reg box earth . out the reg box on most 12 volt systems is 2 feeds ,1 blue to brake light switch an one upto light switch ,which looks green on your diagram . out with meter an check where them odd wires go , H
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Post by gugne on Aug 23, 2023 8:50:14 GMT
aargh , why did you delete what you'd drawn was it wrong . my earlier instructions where for generic idm component ignitions . but there usually the earlier 84mm diameter stators .parmakits can use the later 94mm dia stators an the wiring colour changes , an then theres the extra joker in the pack the italian malossi idm set ups where colours make sense . right from ya diagram it should spark an run an killswitch work . the yellows on sip vape reg boxes are common ,ones power in ones regged power out , an they need a damm good earth wire on a mounting bolt to body . no earth = no regulation , blue from stators the earth , pair that with a cdi small spade earth to reg box earth . out the reg box on most 12 volt systems is 2 feeds ,1 blue to brake light switch an one upto light switch ,which looks green on your diagram . out with meter an check where them odd wires go , H I think it was wrong so I changed it to the new diagram. Ok working through your words: 1. I'm going to join the blue from the stator and earth from the CDI to the earth on the reg box and bolt it to the body. (see my new diagram below) 2. VAPE REG BOX- You say 1 spade is power in and the other reg power out so I assume if I put power in one I'll get reg power out of the other? 3. Is the yellow (coming from the stator to the REG) "power"? 4. The green that goes from the small loom, through the connector and to the output of the reg, is the kill switch. Is it on the correct spade: REG output ...or should it be on the power input spade? 5. According to the BGM diagram (other image below) the blue from the SMALL loom is the AC so where should that connect. 6. Where does the yellow from the big loom go? 7. Any ideas about the blue on the LARGE loom? Maybe it's the speedo light? If so I can forget about it.
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Post by gugne on Aug 24, 2023 7:15:36 GMT
FFS! I've got bigger problems than this... bloody cylinder is still pissing air when I do a leak test. Seems it's coming from between cylinder and engine casing. I can't get it to form bubbles with my leak detection spray so it must be a big leak. I can even hear it pissing out. Scrap it and get a new cylinder or is there something to try first?
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Post by henri on Aug 25, 2023 8:06:01 GMT
what kind of gasket did you use,an any sealant .H
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