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Post by triffid on Aug 1, 2014 15:32:03 GMT
spings dipped in domestos limescale remover (not bleach) for 15-20 mins to remove the rust a realy nice job cleaned right rond the bend quote] LOL, do you work for domestos advertising department
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Post by tzsteve on Aug 1, 2014 15:44:59 GMT
other brands are available (5-7% hydrochloric acid) turns rust into feric chloride which can be desolved in water
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Post by triffid on Aug 5, 2014 11:38:53 GMT
That's a top tip though, never heard of it before but a lot easier than trying to rub it down as I usually do.
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Post by SpoonTuning on Aug 5, 2014 23:49:57 GMT
Thanks Steve, used this tip and now everything has come up looking brand new although I did leave a bit longer than you said, a few days longer actually
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Post by tzsteve on Aug 6, 2014 15:17:57 GMT
i think it depends on how much stuff you are dipping
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Post by tzsteve on Aug 6, 2014 15:37:34 GMT
did a little more work, the loom is made 12volt dc. so i can have lights that work and not candles, a horn that makes a beeping noise and not something that sounds like a sheep in labour. i can also fit an alarm (that could be usefull). did a little sparying over the last couple of days as and when the weather permited the frame in primer with a few light blue patches where the sripes would be. the first coat of azure im not an expert painter so i had a couple of small sags in the paint, so a little work with the wet and dry 400&600 and a bit more of the azure. it actualy looks a bit darker than the piture shows it. all the silver bits have been done so next thing, is to hope that i get a couple of nice clear days with; no rain, no flies, no wind, not to hot, not to cold plenty of good light, (just perfect) and do a bit of wet flatting and laquer. has anyone got a legshield beading tool that they would lend/rent me for a short while
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Post by henri on Aug 6, 2014 17:29:14 GMT
lookin pretty sweet , even pro's get sags n runs , so long as youve got it on thick enuff a bit of flatting an polishing an it'll look perfect . know what ya mean with the painting wish-list .if ya grab a copy of this months practical classics there doing a comparision test on de-rusters , molassess ,potatoes,all sorts (not the liqourice 1's), H
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Post by jude on Aug 6, 2014 19:40:54 GMT
Looking lovely! I've got one of the cheap Chinese beading tools you can borrow, it's not the best in the world but I managed to do mine to a decent enough standard.
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Post by tzsteve on Aug 6, 2014 20:04:12 GMT
pm coming now. thanks mate
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Post by jude on Aug 6, 2014 20:18:48 GMT
Replied Steve
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Post by tzsteve on Aug 7, 2014 18:08:18 GMT
all the little bits and pieces given a coat of laquer today this is what the belly of my scoot was like when i got it and we`ve all seen similar or worse. in the past i have used a few types of underseal to try and stop the rot getting a hold, however i have noticed that the nice warm petrol rich atmosphere of the engine bay tends to soften the underseal used, also the road grit, salt, water, petrol,and whatever else i ride through tends to remove any underseal and then the paint soon follows. what i am going to try this time is acrylic urethane paint. this is intended for flat roofs and claims to be able to last for up to 30 years. the normal aplication is a coat of this then a layer of fiberglass, and another coat of this. i will just be using a thick coat of the paint. it looks like red oxide paint and sets like hard rubber gum, lets hope i`m right in my choice of engine bay protection.
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Post by Spanish Rob on Aug 8, 2014 8:48:58 GMT
Xlnt idea. Lets see how it looks. there is a bunch of new tech coating coming on to the market but maybe do a test to see if theres any reaction to the base. All looking good tho'
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Post by henri on Aug 8, 2014 15:20:04 GMT
for a long time ive not used underseal ,as it can crack an then hold moisture behind against the metal.you dont notice the rust til its so bad a couple of square inches of underseal falls of coz the metal behind is gone.ive been using a coat of etch on bare steel an then 2 coats of brushed on thick synthetic cellulose enamel, same as smoothrite/hammerite,its normally used for tractors or lorry chassis ,15 quid a litre ,can be sprayed but i brush it on.takes ages to fully harden when thick but resists stone chips an were penetrated gives a tiny surface rust bump thats easy to cure an paint over.comes in loads of different colours so can be roughly matched to most body colours if ya want a traditional finish paint scheme .an it handles the oil/heat/petrol of engine bays well,the heat even helps the chemical reaction of paint to harden when on thick. seems like your aiming for the same with the acrylic paint you used . if it can take 30 years uv damage an hot/cold cycles of flat roofs should do fine on ya scoot, which is looking fine by the way .H
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Post by tzsteve on Aug 8, 2014 15:51:55 GMT
final coats of laquer done. im not an expert painter so a little wet & dry then the Tcut (other brands do exist) and i think it`ll look ok. this is what i`m going to try for the carb bung in the frame. a universal cv gaiter £5 ish i cut one ring off each end and it seems to fit ok and how it fits and in the engine bay the red /orange is the first coat of acrylic urathane i`ll give it two more coats as long as it sticks to the paint it should be ok (i hope) it seems very tough and flexable when dry. now i have the bit that i enjoy, putting the whole thing together and giving my scoot its first polish. Jake thanks you have a PM
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Post by GeorgeS on Aug 8, 2014 16:15:46 GMT
Very nice mate, looks great.
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Post by henri on Aug 8, 2014 17:52:39 GMT
i like that cv gaiter for a carb bellows ,should last better than the original bellows ,i hope ya aint repeating a old mistake of mine,but noticed the pictures dont include a gear shift bar an headset .when i painted a scoot an forgot them i only had enuff top coat to cover the undercoats on the headset ,the gear change bar end is still a lighter shade of red undercoat to the rest of the scoot,DOH!!,Henri
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Post by tzsteve on Aug 8, 2014 18:06:58 GMT
All done mate. just for others the shopping list for the paint was 2 Ltr etch pimer (used 1.5) plus activator 0.5 ltr silver (used 0.25 ltr) 0.5 ltr light blue (used 0.2 ltr) for the stripes 1 ltr azure 1 ltr laquer 2 ltr 2K activator (used 1.5 ltr) for blue, silver and laquer 5 ltr cheap thinners for cleaning spray guns
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Post by captainpugwash on Aug 9, 2014 11:30:26 GMT
Looking good :-)
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Post by revdevil on Aug 9, 2014 11:52:22 GMT
Love the gaiter. Loving the scooter but that gaiter looks like it will do a great job!
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Post by scooterfreak on Aug 9, 2014 12:03:20 GMT
top job ste looks like i will be giving you my frame to paint as well as the engine to sort hahahaha
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