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Post by jude on Jun 27, 2014 21:46:30 GMT
I was shopping around locally looking for some gasket paper, just to try out different thicknesses to get my squish right before ordering a copper one in the right thickness. Got quoted £52 for a 1mtr x 2mtr x 0.5mm roll Only needed about a square foot of the stuff so passed and came up with my own cunning solution.
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Post by tzsteve on Jun 28, 2014 15:17:53 GMT
I have a little copper sheat it`s 0.15 or 0.2 ish how much do you need F.O.C for a small piece
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Post by tzsteve on Jun 28, 2014 15:50:18 GMT
i had to cut the inlet and base gaskets so just to see if i could cut all the gaskets that i need i had a little go this morning. this is the way i was shown. place the paper where it is needed and use a light object such as a knife handle/ screwdriver etc,etc to gently tap the paper where the accurate edge is needed, this will cut most of the paper as required, any stuborn bits can then be easily cut with a SHARP blade, when you need to make a hole for a stud etc., rub the knife handle or other blunt object over the paper where the hole is this is usualy enough to make the stud holes. as you progress round the gasket drop a stud into any holes, this will help to keep the gasket where you want it. these gaskets cost me about 20-30p for all the ones that i needed. I only did the engine one as a practice/test. the two holes at the top of the engine gasket are a bit cockeyed but the gasket will be ok so i`ll use it now that it`s made. i have no intention of cutting an engine gasket again as it took about 40 minutes to cut. i know most of us have cut a few gaskets but i thought this might help a few who might be new to this.
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Post by jude on Jun 28, 2014 18:17:22 GMT
I have a little copper sheat it`s 0.15 or 0.2 ish how much do you need F.O.C for a small piece Thanks pal but I've got one ordered, need 1.2mm to get my squish right. Had to order an aluminium one from scooter-centre though to get one the right thickness, would have rather used copper.
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Post by scooterfreak on Jun 28, 2014 23:45:47 GMT
not looked at this thread for a week or two, you been a busy bee ste nice to see it all coming along mate
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Post by henri on Jun 29, 2014 9:37:31 GMT
i was taught the gasket cutting trick as a nipper ,but with a ball-pein hammer used very lightly ,an mostly using cornflake boxes for gaskets ,too skint to buy gasket paper then , h
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Post by tzsteve on Jun 29, 2014 19:03:40 GMT
done the cornflake box thing myself but it tends not to be oil or water proof for very long. still it`s all good practice. on my watercooled ome i used to trim the head gasket of some honda but i cant remember the model.
when i first built it i had no head gasket and soon found that nomater how good you think the seal is the head leaked into the coolant blowing all the water out of the header tank after abou 1 mile or so.
i then tried a paper gasket that would last about 5 miles then burn away.
the honda one was about 1mm thick and had a steel ring on the inner edge all i had to do was machine a lip in the head and trim the gasket to fit. that worked a treat.
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Post by tzsteve on Jul 2, 2014 16:27:58 GMT
found someone local who will glassbead blast frame, engine door, f/w cowel, headset, buttie box door and number plate mounting piece. all had to be degeased and dry.
£100 elite powder coating, aintree,
having seen some of the work these bloke do and having done a few in the past with paint stripper, wire mops in angle grinders etc etc. im happy to have it blasted
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Post by tzsteve on Jul 3, 2014 16:10:03 GMT
some one askied me for the details of the KH400 piston this is the best i can do. its a lot like the meteor GS but lighter.
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Post by tzsteve on Jul 9, 2014 15:57:48 GMT
i had the small cluster welded nicely then cleaned up the weld on the lathe no problems up to now. home made clutch compressor, this works well enough got a drt clutch from a forum member seems very nice then i started looking at it in more detail. assembled the clutch and put it in the clutch basket/primary drive. looking at it the top plate was level with the top of the basket even before i had fitted it in the engine (not a good sign) its a bad photo but you can see what i mean idealy the top plate should be a little lower than the top of the basket. started the engine assembly and fitted the clutch only to find a couple of problems 1st problem: noticed that only half of the top cork was sitting within the clutch basket. so removed the clutch replaced the top cork plate with a thicker standard cork and clamped the top plate between to old steels in a vice and gently bent the edge of the clutch down a little. so that the top plate would sit fully within the clutch basket (old trick often used in the past) 2nd problem: reassembled the clutch, put it in the engine and put the clutch cover in place ready to bolt it on only to feel the cover binding on the clutch. i used a little engineers blue (its like blue grease) on the top of the clutch to see where it was touching the cover. wherever the clutch touched the cover it would leave a trace of blue. and here`s the cover i could buy a 1mm packing piece, grind the clutch cover not a good idea or make a thicker gasket. luckily i have a little 1.5mm thick fiber reinforced neoprene gasket. so get cutting with the sharp blade and scissors and two improvised hole punches one was a tv aerial plug the other was a 6mm allen screw ground on the outside to leave a sharp edge the hole punches the finished gasket in place and the clutch cover now fits i now wonder if this clutch only fits a drt clutch basket or if i got a bad one problem number 3 ive now lost the woodruf key (new one in the post) the frame is still in the blasters getting unpainted and shiney (ready next friday i hope) just to make sure that i get the paint details right i took a few photos and measurements. any help to anybody else ? gosh it`s all good fun this scooter stuff
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Post by tzsteve on Jul 9, 2014 16:06:01 GMT
i still have a few little odds and sods to get blasted; fork leg, mud guard, and hubs i think thats the lot. but they can wait a couple of weeks the main thing at the moment is to convince myself that some progress is still being made.
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Post by jude on Jul 9, 2014 19:50:03 GMT
Doing well mate, lots of progress and ironing all the wee issues. My build is becoming slower and slower, was hoping I'd have finished by now, it's all the little things that are eating up my spare hours.
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Post by tzsteve on Jul 9, 2014 20:30:53 GMT
little things are the biggest time wasters
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Post by tzsteve on Jul 10, 2014 16:02:58 GMT
still waiting for the woodruff key to arive. however i did have a little play with the fly wheel. i have seen so many flywheels with missing fins and signs of other abuse. i use a universal clutch and flywheel tool for holding the flywheel while tightening or undoining the nut the flywheel needs two 5/16 holes drilled in it this is the tool about £15 -£18 and it holds the flywheel like this these two pegs go into the flywheel and protrude about 2mm into the stator side . well clear of the coilwindings
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Post by tzsteve on Jul 14, 2014 20:29:57 GMT
got all the engine bits bolted together apart from the stator and flywheel but theres no rush on that.
checked the timings etc: transferes 130 (i was hoping to get the main ones at 128ish, exhaust 178 (i was aiming for 175 so not bad) inlet 198 (i normaly go about 195 so not bad) compression ratio 11.9:1 happy with that anything up to 12.5 is usualy ok but higher than that can cause detonation etc. also high compression equals high wear on the big end
i had to use a 1.5mm gasket for the clutch, a mate pointed out that i need to watch the brake backplate on the clutch cover( thanks dave) used the engineers blue to see where it was touching and removed a little from both the clutch cover and the brake back plate as it touched in a couple of places.
also did a little work on the silly stuff that eats up the time: trimmed the barrel coweling, dismantled fork leg and both dampers. hubs and rims are now stripped ready for cleaning/blasting etc. then painting. ever noticed how rims can get stuck to the tyres (great fun splitting those)?
i had totaly forgoten how to strip the frant axle so that was a long drawn out affair relearning where the circlips and locking rings are and how to remove them
now im waiting for the frame to come back from the blasters, i have been advised to work fast on the frame when it comes back in order to prevent problems with invisible rust under the paint; primer is ready also got a big steel padle ready to have another go at the dents.
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Post by tzsteve on Jul 16, 2014 16:12:36 GMT
frame has been blasted so a little to do before putting the primer on to it, a few small holes have made their pessence noticable so a bit of filler in one or two places.took a little time to clean up the dampers these were taken apart and the spings dipped in domestos limescale remover (not bleach) for 15-20 mins to remove the rust a realy nice job cleaned right rond the bend so next its primer,filler,paint etc.
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Post by tzsteve on Jul 17, 2014 15:16:22 GMT
a little pimer/filler work today,so the frame and a few little bits done. followed the advice of a couple of people and used a self etch primer. the spraying is not perfect but it will be ok once its been wet flatted with 400. still got a couple of small bits left to get blasted rims,hubs etc. this is my well ventilated spray booth so a little rest till i get the rest ready for paint etc.
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Post by henri on Jul 22, 2014 19:06:39 GMT
yep ,looking good , 2 coats of etch an then flat an then 2-3 of normal primer ,if doing in celly ya can mix 60/40 with thinners an get hi-build primer ,thats my normal routine , ya panel came out well,from pics ya cant tell it was creased , another trick i was taught is to get any colour from the discount shelf in paint shop ,to use as a guide coat as matt primer can hide some faults only for em to come out in the top coats ,not red or yellow tho as there more prone to bleeding through the topcoat/over paint , an in ya well ventilated booth watch out for bugs ,as colours bring em out n thinners knocks em out ,to drop onto fresh paint , a cheap gazebo an yards of net curtains ,an avoid spraying in early morn as dew=damp air=bloom an evening coz of midges an hottest part of day as paint drys to fast an doesnt cover evenly an is more prone to looking "sandy" like youve held the gun too far off . a few things ive learnt the hard way with al-fresco spraying , an last thing dont drink as thinners exagerates ya drunk ,my mates girls decking is still baby-blue 2 years after we painted his lamb-chop out there an thought a can or 2 would help us an cool us down . 2 litres of celly an most missed the frame n forks an tank , whoops , Henri
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Post by tzsteve on Jul 30, 2014 18:39:47 GMT
still pretty much of a stand still, waiting for the blasters, got a couple of little things sorted (thanks george) worked out the details of the wiring strip, got hold of a 3 phase rectifier/regulator (RD350) this will make it possoble to switch to a 3 phase stator in the future.
managed to spend more cash on little odds and sods; locks, etc., etc., etc., its amazing how the cost of the silly little bits can add up.
getting fed up waiting on the blaster, his team mate is on holiday so only high priority jobs are getting done
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Post by tzsteve on Jul 31, 2014 17:37:10 GMT
miracles can happen, got my stuff back from the blasters, so in the next couple of days i should have a bit more fun
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