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Post by tzsteve on Jun 4, 2014 15:58:58 GMT
a start on the barrel work first check the timings with a timing disk (thanks gav) work out what needs to be taken of the top and bottom of the barrel. then to the lathe for the shortening work. first a mandrel was turned to the correct dia about 1-2 thou clearance then the barrel is set up ready to turn i simply slide it into position and use an allan key in a stud hole to drive the barrel round this is the best way to shorten a barrel as it ensures the bore is square to the gasket face. if this is not square it will lead to excessive ware of the conrod, piston, big end and small end. it also makes later rebores more difficult if the bore is not square to the gasket face the liner was removed by putting the barrel in the oven on full heat untill the liner dropped out the liner can then be marked and ported away from the barrel, this makes the work on the ports a lot easier the liner is now ready for putting back in the barrel
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Post by tzsteve on Jun 4, 2014 16:28:48 GMT
then a little work on the blending to the liner exhaust port from inside the barrel and outside then some roughing out of the case and packing piece first the barrel and pack piece then the pack piece and engine case at this stage some of the work is still a bit rough it was now getting on for feeding time also due to the amount of swarf that was getting stuck in my fingers i decided to call it time for the day. later in the week i will come back to this with some emery cloth a rubbing of the barrel as it is now these rubbings give a good impression of whats going on as regards progress they are very seldom exact as the paper tends to stretch and move around a little, i find usefull though next making a window in the piston the piston is marked where i want the window then drilled and filed as required the next day for variety with the help of a top lambretta man i did some panel beating the scoot had obviously attacked a curb at some time and lost first was the crease in the legshield these tend to be the easiest to sort out a big improvement then the dent in the buttie box. after a little heat and a few hammer blows to a drift and a few hammer blows to some fingers we ended up with this we are not panel beaters so i`m quite happy with the results i reckon with a few more light taps and some filler this damage will be invisible still looking for a late type four speed box any offers gents
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Post by GeorgeS on Jun 4, 2014 17:46:17 GMT
Good read this is, Steve. Enjoying watching your progress and learning a few things along the way. Good tip on the barrel turning, I would of preferred that to fly cutting (as mentioned in my build thread) but we went with what we thought was right at the time.
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Post by tzsteve on Jun 4, 2014 17:50:19 GMT
needs must. i wanted a falk or parma kit, and a quatrini case. but needs must
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Post by jude on Jun 4, 2014 22:00:03 GMT
Interesting and educational stuff here, keep up the good work, love these kind of posts.
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Post by tzsteve on Jun 6, 2014 18:39:58 GMT
new four plate clutch is in the post only £19 from fleabay,
any one know who does cheap tig/aluminium welding in merseyside
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Blue ET3
Jun 6, 2014 19:16:50 GMT
via mobile
Post by ttscshaggy on Jun 6, 2014 19:16:50 GMT
Nice work on the panel beating. But seeing as there was a crease that means it's had a slight front end collision and will be somewhat twisted still.
I like the proper old school work. Its cool
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Post by jacques on Jun 7, 2014 10:47:26 GMT
Can you give me the numbers on the later gears as I have a spare 4 speed box in the shed, not sure if it's early or late though but can check via the numbers...
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Post by tzsteve on Jun 7, 2014 14:57:46 GMT
did a little bit of faffing about with the stator. the wires had been damaged in the past but i have every intention of going 12v with battery. did a couple like this for some shop or other in the 80`s its now rewired in a way that will allow me to use a three phase rectifier from almost any bike, this is handy as the bike ones come up on fleabay all the time and can usually be picked up very cheap. last TZR one that i got was about £5 inc post. i was a little careless in my choice of paintbrush a smaller one would have been neater but the connections are water proof, the stator has also been coated with lacquer. seems like a good idea. this is what it looked like to start with some of the damage that was hidden by the sleaving the finished stator how its wired
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Post by tzsteve on Jun 11, 2014 15:48:57 GMT
started on the gearbox. im using the 3rd gear from a 3 speed box and fitting it to a standard 4 speed box this lowers the top gear by about 2%. i have done this a couple of times and not had any problems, i dont know how much power you need to do 80-85 but this mod works well enough at this speed. i know of one person who had the same mod done for them in the early 90s and the gear box is still going strong. first get a 3 speed cluster and remove the bearing if it`s stuck on the cluster, i used a bearing puller for this Thanks Greg then using a 3 1/2 inch cutting disk i cut off the 3rd gear from the cluster one gear cut off this is then bored in the lathe to give a hole of 24-25mm this must be very well centered the red oxide paint is only to ensure that the machine shop surfacegrind the correct side of the gear (i told them to only grind the painted side) i have also given them the loose 3rd gear to surfacegrind for me. i can not do any work on the rest of the gearbox till all these parts come back (about a week) a sketch of what has to be done
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Post by tzsteve on Jun 11, 2014 15:55:00 GMT
meanwhile i`m still doing a little blending , i do the odd bit now and again as the mood takes me. i think we all know how tedious this can be. the barrel is bolted to one side of the case as the case has been doweled the barrel always stay in the right position and a view into the transfer from the bottom getting there just a bit more again i am at a stand still while the gearbox is finished
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Blue ET3
Jun 12, 2014 4:35:28 GMT
via mobile
Post by gav on Jun 12, 2014 4:35:28 GMT
I had a gear box like that from taff speed back in the day it worked well
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Post by tzsteve on Jun 12, 2014 15:09:53 GMT
didn`t know anybody else did them, but terry was a very creative bloke.
i did my first one in 1988
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Post by tzsteve on Jun 20, 2014 15:20:09 GMT
let down bu the machine shop (due to staff ilness) i still cant do anything else to the gear box for a few days, so ill make a start on the manifold. couldn`t get a manifold for a 26-28mm amal so i have a 24 mm delorto one to mwees around with. this will be the job for the weekend
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Post by tzsteve on Jun 25, 2014 16:04:16 GMT
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Post by tzsteve on Jun 25, 2014 16:35:51 GMT
these are the main tools used for the grinding work the two on the left are cheap die grinders and take 3mm or 6mm shaft cutters. they are very usefull but after an hour or so you notice an awfull lot of airline oil getting over your hands,cloathes and every where else. the air tools are good as they dont try to dislocate your wrist if the cutter gets stuck in a corner. the small electric one is a burges rototool not very powerfull, the chuck is a bugger for not holding the grinding points propperly only getting a grip after tightening a few times. it is very usefull as it will take any shaft size upto 4mm. the next is a rotozip reble spiral saw. this is one of my favorites 250watt comes with a few collets 3mm,3.2mm,6mm and 1/4 inch. it has two speeds 14000 and 17000. the one in the box is a blue point right angle grinder (about £150 inc p&p) again air powered like the first two. usefull for work in the barrel unfortunatly i bust the collet a couple of weeks ago. if you are on a limited budget and can only afford one. the one i would recomend is the rotozip but just get the basic kit (unless you need the angle grinder and sanding attachments, etc, etc) how things have improved in the 80`S must tuning was done with modified routers and suped up drills
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Post by tzsteve on Jun 26, 2014 15:59:10 GMT
finaly got my gears back. all i can do for now is the preparation for welding and assemble the axle on assembly the clearance on the shims was 0.25-0.26mm which seems about right tomorrow morning i hope to machine the small cluster ready for welding
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Blue ET3
Jun 26, 2014 16:35:49 GMT
via mobile
Post by gav on Jun 26, 2014 16:35:49 GMT
All looking good mate your doing a great job
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Post by tzsteve on Jun 27, 2014 15:41:28 GMT
more done this morning before going to work ( i work late). despite what many people say the vespa gears are made from very good steel and the teeth are extremely hard. the early ones seem to be even harder than the later ones. you can not cut these teeth except with ceramic tipped tools. so first i ground the teeth off. the steel under the teeth is soft enough to cut with carbide or HSS tooling. this is the setup for the rough/first few cuts when i had done most of the work i made a quick check to ensure the work was still running true (runout was 0.0005 inch)and swapped the tool for a finer tipped tool to allow me to cut into the corner for finishing off all machining done its vital to remove any oil etc prior to putting the two parts together ready for welding as any oil would cause pinholes in the weld, i used a little thinners to rinse these bits clean. the parts are now ready for a top lambretta man to weld when he gets back from the euro rally. the weld MUST be done using pure nickel rods. the next thing is to clean the engine casing ready for building i dont need a shiny engine so a couple of gallons of parafin will do the job. anybody know of anyone close to merseyside who does low presure beadblasting on frames, i`ve contacted a couple only to find that they only do industrial (bears arse rough) shot-blasting.
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Post by tzsteve on Jun 27, 2014 19:27:17 GMT
I needed a bit of gasket paper for the barrel and manifold and managed to get 1 meter sqr of 0.15mm for £4 delivered.
i think just for the fun of it i will try to cut all the gaskets that i need for the engine although i`ve done a few small gaskets i`ve never cut the big engine one so i`m going to find out how many times i have to try inorder to get it right.
we never learn unless we try
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