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Post by jeanshorts on Mar 26, 2014 22:16:59 GMT
I found a chart somewhere that indicated viton was only good up to 4000 rpm on a 25 mm shaft.
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Post by potatopl on Mar 26, 2014 22:54:15 GMT
Had problems with flyside oil seal - the one that came with the falc crank was 22(internal diameter)x32(external diameter)x6(width) however I needed 22x35x6 as my fly side is the same as ETS. I searched for this size seal on all usual sites but know where seemed to sell them. 22mm internal? The ETS crank is 24mm fly side seal, isn't it?
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Post by briggsy on Mar 27, 2014 18:46:32 GMT
I found a chart somewhere that indicated viton was only good up to 4000 rpm on a 25 mm shaft. oh........maybe the Viton wont work then? Any ideas how hot the flyside crank shaft would get?
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Post by briggsy on Mar 27, 2014 18:47:48 GMT
Had problems with flyside oil seal - the one that came with the falc crank was 22(internal diameter)x32(external diameter)x6(width) however I needed 22x35x6 as my fly side is the same as ETS. I searched for this size seal on all usual sites but know where seemed to sell them. 22mm internal? The ETS crank is 24mm fly side seal, isn't it? Hi potatopl, you are correct the ETS crank shaft is 24mm but the falc crank I have is measuring 22mm.
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Post by briggsy on Mar 27, 2014 21:54:45 GMT
Help required.......... The 34mm VHSB has got a 160 main jet, 60 idle jet and k57 needle. Has anyone got any ideas or ball park figures as to what I should change them to for my set up? Im guessing I may not need to change but I have no experience with needle carbs. As always any help would be most appreciated.
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Post by jeanshorts on Mar 28, 2014 3:32:47 GMT
briggsy, I may have been mistaken and can't find the chart any more. I think it may have been silicone I was thinking of. Basically there is a meter per second rating for different materials and the chart I had found broke it into shaft size and rpm equivalents.
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Post by briggsy on Mar 28, 2014 7:39:14 GMT
briggsy may have been mistaken and can't find the chart any more. I think it may have been silicone I was thinking of. Basically there is a meter per second rating for different materials and the chart I had found broke it into shaft size and rpm equivalents. That sounds useful - i will take a look on the web, see if i can find anything similar.
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Post by ttscshaggy on Mar 28, 2014 10:19:06 GMT
I think you need a main around the 140 size. Idle 50.
Not sure on needles. Try what you have. The richest setting is the bottom clip. Lean it off as you go.
I'd say you need an atomiser around 245
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Post by briggsy on Mar 28, 2014 12:38:13 GMT
Thanks shaggy - now looking for the jets and atomiser.
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Post by briggsy on Mar 28, 2014 13:25:53 GMT
I think you need a main around the 140 size. Idle 50. Not sure on needles. Try what you have. The richest setting is the bottom clip. Lean it off as you go. I'd say you need an atomiser around 245 smallest atomiser i could find on sip is 258, have ordered it to get started.
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Post by jonnysnatchsniffer on Mar 28, 2014 17:15:02 GMT
the viton seals are fine for high rpm stuff, better than nitrile rubber
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Post by dave441cc on Mar 31, 2014 23:04:37 GMT
Any updates ?
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Post by briggsy on Apr 1, 2014 20:29:46 GMT
Have now removed old engine from frame, will be now looking at what needs "adjusting" to fit the exhaust and new carb arrangement. On first fit it looks like I may have to cut some metal out of the floor of the carb area to fit the vhsb.
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Post by ttscshaggy on Apr 1, 2014 21:56:55 GMT
You shouldn't need to do that.
If your certain there is not enough space you could jack the rear end up slightly to give more angle on the carb manifold i guess?
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Post by briggsy on Apr 2, 2014 8:24:13 GMT
You shouldn't need to do that. If your certain there is not enough space you could jack the rear end up slightly to give more angle on the carb manifold i guess? I was surprised aswell, it may not it could have just been how i had it angled......will find out soon enough.
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Post by potatopl on Apr 3, 2014 7:15:23 GMT
You check the tree by simply putting casings together and installing the bare clutch spider onto the Xmas tree and if it spins freely inside the basket you will be fine. If it rubs at all you will have problems. And then shim as required. But as said with the later Xmas tree's this problem should be rectified. Sorry to bump in, but has just put my cases with DRT Runnter together and there was rubbing. I guess it also depends on what primary basket you use (I got a shitty RMS one).
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Post by ttscshaggy on Apr 3, 2014 10:48:47 GMT
Hi bart
When i had one of them newfren xl2 clutches in the past i found the spider rubbed slightly. I took the spider out and lightly filed the back of it until it spun freely. It was only a very light shave.
It would of dragged really bad otherwise
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Post by potatopl on Apr 3, 2014 12:00:38 GMT
The spider I have is probably a Piaggio item, Newfren are only the new internals. Anyway, I've alreay grinded the primary a bit, but might also go for the clutch basket to increase the clearance. Story here.
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Post by jonnysnatchsniffer on Apr 3, 2014 21:11:48 GMT
yeah you shoudnt need to do any floor removal in the carb area, 39mm carbs fit in ok
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Post by briggsy on Apr 4, 2014 18:52:46 GMT
yeah you shoudnt need to do any floor removal in the carb area, 39mm carbs fit in ok Hi guys - well after some help from Dave441cc I have got the engine in place, toolbox side adjusted to fit the "big bertha" and carb hole enlarged to fit the intake manifold...........I have tried the VHSB for size but it currently needs the floor chopping to let the carb fit in place? Has anyone got any pics of carb in place with the falc intake manifold in a PK frame? What would you do if you were me? - Cut out carb floor
- Cut out carb floor and then replace floor with modified lower pan
- Change carb - what could I change it for?
- Jack the back up? - but I really don't want the back too high?
Any ideas or help most appreciated.
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