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Post by briggsy on Mar 7, 2014 21:16:36 GMT
have made some more progress - will add some pics tomorrow.
have finished the porting on the cases, i had to have the fly side case crank web machined to take the falc crank. also had to make some more alterations to the spigot opening,as it was smaller in the first place to allow for the con rod to move freely without touching the case. I then degreased and cleaned cases and made a start on installing the bearings - getting there!!
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Post by briggsy on Mar 8, 2014 21:06:34 GMT
As promised some pics:- Had to put the 2 cable convertor together on the case to get a good idea where i had to drill the two hole for the cable adjusters. Not sure how long the brass bush will last in the conversion kit, was wondering if anyone has inserted a bearing in there instead? Had to make some more alterations to spigot for con rod and base of piston clearance, this is now finished! i then washed out the case with some degreaser to get rid of any swarf and dust! put the first bearing in!! 2nd bearing! 3rd..... 4th....... stuck in the kick start rubbers.... more to come soon.........
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Post by jonnysnatchsniffer on Mar 9, 2014 19:50:18 GMT
like to see how you get on with the cable converter as i may have to go down that route myself as ive gotta either try and make a teleflex gearchange on some bars (not headset) or go your way. what does it entail exactly ?
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Post by briggsy on Mar 9, 2014 22:47:24 GMT
Yo Jonny - the piece of kit looks really well made apart from the brass bush however i havent used it yet so time will tell. In terms of fitting it you will need to make 2 holes for the gear cables adjusters (4.2mm drill and standard 5mm thread tap), this is easy to do. Will take some more photo's of this once its on the case for you. Will obviously update on how it works once up and running.
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Post by briggsy on Mar 15, 2014 14:14:56 GMT
small update:- Part of the gear change mech now Loctite'd in place and new bearing and seal on main gear change shaft Primary drive and main case crank bearing in! Crank seal in place.......... new kick start quadrant and return spring........ Washers holding the main drive bearing in place while i knock in the shaft Gears and shaft in place................ Gasket in place, just making sure everything is in ready to put the cases together!! went together very easily! (missed a pic out - put the DRT runner tree in case before putiing it together) Fly side seal pushed in....
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Post by briggsy on Mar 15, 2014 14:16:51 GMT
Clutch in soak!
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Post by briggsy on Mar 15, 2014 14:18:38 GMT
Look what else turned up!!!!! Beautiful!!! 34mm VHSB......
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Post by briggsy on Mar 15, 2014 14:21:25 GMT
now starting to look at port timings.............. This is the first set of figures, what do you guys think??? any help most appreciated.... Exhaust duration 190 Transfer duration 126 Inlet duration 200
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Post by briggsy on Mar 15, 2014 21:54:56 GMT
oh forgot.....
Blowdown 32 and current squish is 0.9mm!!!
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Post by potatopl on Mar 15, 2014 22:24:44 GMT
Nice work! Did you have to shim the DRT runner tree to work with the XL2 clutch? What gear oil do you use with carbons? And is it required to soak the carbon plates overnight like the cork ones?
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Post by ttscshaggy on Mar 15, 2014 23:25:48 GMT
You dont need to soak carbon plates. just smear on oil on installation.
I use Silkolene Light 75W mineral oil
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Post by briggsy on Mar 16, 2014 9:12:05 GMT
Nice work! Did you have to shim the DRT runner tree to work with the XL2 clutch? What gear oil do you use wI need toth carbons? And is it required to soak the carbon plates overnight like the cork ones? Hi, like shaggy said no need to soak over night - instructions say soak 2hrs before installation. I havent shimmed the drt runner - will soon see if i need to.
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Post by ttscshaggy on Mar 16, 2014 13:21:45 GMT
You check the tree by simply putting casings together and installing the bare clutch spider onto the Xmas tree and if it spins freely inside the basket you will be fine. If it rubs at all you will have problems. And then shim as required.
But as said with the later Xmas tree's this problem should be rectified.
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Post by briggsy on Mar 17, 2014 13:12:52 GMT
now starting to look at port timings.............. This is the first set of figures, what do you guys think??? any help most appreciated.... Exhaust duration 190 Transfer duration 126 Inlet duration 200 Anyone got any views on the duration figures? looking at finishing it off and starting it.
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Post by GeorgeS on Mar 17, 2014 13:28:31 GMT
From what I've read they're spot on for that lovely new exhaust you have there.
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Post by briggsy on Mar 20, 2014 20:49:51 GMT
Cheers George - now trying to finish it off, am hoping to start it up in the engine frame. Will update soon.
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Post by briggsy on Mar 26, 2014 21:31:35 GMT
Good evening - small update. Clutch in (standard XL2 spider with carbon newfren plates and 12 springs), from what I have read I don't hold much hope for it but as I already had them I need to give them a go. I think I may be ordering the BGM superstrong in the future.
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Post by briggsy on Mar 26, 2014 21:32:42 GMT
XL2 clutch cover stripped, new seals and bearing and outside cleaned with wire brush:
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Post by briggsy on Mar 26, 2014 21:41:21 GMT
Had problems with flyside oil seal - the one that came with the falc crank was 22(internal diameter)x32(external diameter)x6(width) however I needed 22x35x6 as my fly side is the same as ETS. I searched for this size seal on all usual sites but know where seemed to sell them. I have a local seal/bearing company who stocked this size in various materials so I have Viton (brown in colour) and nitrile (black in colour). The Vition handles a higher temp but I though I would trial the nitrile to see if it can handle it as the the Viton seal is 4 times the price, will see how this goes. From the pics below you can see I have filled the starter motor hole and also attached the exhaust manifold Next step is to get the ignition on and fille her up with oil.........
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Post by briggsy on Mar 26, 2014 21:44:49 GMT
You check the tree by simply putting casings together and installing the bare clutch spider onto the Xmas tree and if it spins freely inside the basket you will be fine. If it rubs at all you will have problems. And then shim as required. But as said with the later Xmas tree's this problem should be rectified. It all went together nicely, basket spinning freely so should hopefully be fine.
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