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Post by nellee on Apr 12, 2009 20:36:18 GMT
Guys I have begun the stripdown of my small frame today, I am documenting everything at my site, as most of you have done this type of thing before, and this is my first strip and rebuild, any comments or help would be greatly appreciated . As i wanted to document everything step by step I didn't want to flood the forum with photos you have probably all seen before so everything can be seen at www.vespa-italia.co.ukAny things to watch out for or tips for newbies would be welcomed. you can leave comments on the website too. Thanks Paul |
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Post by Juan on Apr 13, 2009 15:53:01 GMT
Hey, feel free to document it on here too, the more the merrier.
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Post by nellee on Apr 13, 2009 18:00:21 GMT
This is the first strip down we have done so it's all very much a learning curve for us and we are not sure what is the right or wrong way to do things, im sure the guys on here will lend advice where needed. Although we planned to document everything step by step you tend to get carried away and forget to take photos, so please bear with us. High resolution photos are available to view on our website www.vespa-italia.co.ukThe strip down began today, we first off removed the front wheel to expose the hub and front fork. We removed the brake cable and the cable adjustment nut to completely release the cable from the hub. Shown in red circles on the photograph.  Removing the link cover by bending the retaining lugs back and sliding off exposed the bottom bolt for the front shock and the front axel. The axle just slid out on the needle roller bearings which stay in place.  The front shock needs the top bolt removed before you can completely remove it from the scooter, we removed the front mudguard first as it was damaged and we have a new one coming so it made the job easier. Where possible we are replacing old parts for new. The top bolt of the front shock will begin to turn the casing of the shocker when turned so we used a stilson wrench on the area marked to stop the shock from turning and this enabled us to loosen the top bolt then completely remove the shock absorber.  Tomorrow we will take apart the front hub as whilst it’s off we may as well replace the brake shoes. We then removed the Vespa 6V horn, and worked our way up to the headset.  Firstly removing the headlamp by loosening the small retaining screws underneath, and then sliding the headlamp forward on the rubber surround, the wiring is shown.  We also removed the indicator switch from the right hand side of the headset, again, wiring is shown, we are not sure if this is the standard wiring for the Vespa, there is no reason not to think so, so the colours should be correct.  We removed the chrome switch cover on the throttle side of the headset by easing this off from behind with a small blade screwdriver. We then removed the retaining bolt from the back of the front fork/headset which goes through and into a square nut inside of the lamp cavitiy, I think this maybe the main bolt for the headset, it is located just above the steering lock hole. Once the headlamp is removed you can then see the mechanism for the throttle and the clutch, which are held in place by a retaining pin, this can be easily removed to allow the cables to be pulled through and replaced. Also there seems to be wiring in place for indicators, which makes sense as the switch is in place so the wiring seems to be there, just not used. Once all of the cables and retaining pins are removed the handle bars can be pulled away from the headset. We also began to remove some small amounts of trim, the middle floor strips are held by phillips screws and then the middles are held in place by small grab posts that can be twisted out with the floor strip.  We then began to remove the carb, firstly by removing the tank then removing the choke lever, we then looped off the choke cable, tomorrow we will completely remove the carb as it is now loose by removing the holding bolt.  |
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Post by nellee on Apr 13, 2009 18:53:44 GMT
well we carried on today and got the body completely stripped apart from a couple of floor strips. we removed the carb completely saving the solderless nipples where we could just to keep as spares just incase, i just noticed you can buy new supplies from sip so we will be ordering soon. The carb is really easy to remove just needing the one retating bolt to be removed, (THANKS TO JUAN FOR POINTING US IN THE RIGHT DIRECTION..)  We removed the headset completely and then removed the locating nut and the bearing for the front fork.  We then looked to the cables, I fear locating the new ones will be a pain so any advice on this would be appreciated.  The internal fitting of the new throttle, brake and clutch cables inside of the headlamp housing looks like it may be a task and we may need some new bits so links please..!!!  I also came across this in the bay under the seat, i think its an indicator relay, as all of the wiring was present..?  After removing all of the cables, and chopping them where it was awkward, we got to the point where we just had the frame and the engine left, we had removed the headset and stripped it completely, removing the handlebars too.  All that was left was the engine, we removed the back shocker top bolt located in the inside of the bodywork near the taillight, then removed the main engine bolt that runs through the body. Once out we realised just how much dirt can be collected on a motor in 30 years..!! It's such a mess so a can of gunk and a power was will be happening tomorrow. We have removed the rear wheel and the exhaust and will now have the body blasted in the coming weeks.  we did notice that there are a couple of things that may cause problems, the needle bearings from the front hub are all over the place so can we replace and is there an easy way of keeping them in place or is it a case of fitting them then fitting the front hub straight away...? Thanks Paul |
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Post by nellee on Apr 13, 2009 18:58:53 GMT
HUBS...!!!!!,
Guys I want to repace the wheels with 10" chrome rims, but the hubs are the oldstyle 4 bolt type, will i need to replace these with modern hubs..? I think scooter girl did that with hers but im not sure, when i have been looking for parts i have been using "best guess" as models spotting seems a bit of a pain, is the v50, v90 model the same as my 100...?
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Post by spellcheck on Apr 14, 2009 18:18:34 GMT
That is some serious dirt... damn.
I am excited to see this restoration.
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Post by nellee on Apr 14, 2009 19:15:36 GMT
Jet washed most of it off tonight, im soaked and covered in gunk..!! nothing a ham and tomato sandwich won't cure..!! will post photos of the weekend after a bit more cleaning, its amazing the things you can see now the grime has gone, the engine was sweet too when it was running.
JD will post a link to your site from mine. thanks for the comment.
Paul
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Post by Juan on Apr 14, 2009 19:59:37 GMT
Well you've gotten a little ahead of yourself there. The tried and trusted method of cabling is the tape the new outer to the old one, if afraid now it's time, frustration and trial and error.  On the wheel front this thread should point you in the right direction. |
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Post by madmax on Apr 14, 2009 20:13:29 GMT
HUBS...!!!!!, Guys I want to repace the wheels with 10" chrome rims, but the hubs are the oldstyle 4 bolt type, will i need to replace these with modern hubs..? You can also get 10" conversion rims that fits the old style hubs. |
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Post by Juan on Apr 14, 2009 20:24:47 GMT
I think it was only the 50's that ran on 9" rims Max?
Assuming the rims are 10", which I'm pretty certain they will be, and you like that style then why not just have them blasted and plated by one of the numerous specialists. I think it was Bigchap who found someone who did chroming at a very reasonable rate.
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Post by madmax on Apr 14, 2009 20:34:22 GMT
Yeah, you right Juan, got confused with the VBB that has 8" rims I believe?  Anyway you can get chrome rims to fit the old style hub. |
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Post by nellee on Apr 15, 2009 6:35:48 GMT
guys yeah, i was thinking of having them chromes as i quite like the look, there is a photo of chromed 8" version on scootrs site and i quite like the look. scootrs.com/category.cfm?category=104Bigchap....? any links to chromers...? Thanks paul |
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Post by Juan on Apr 15, 2009 8:57:35 GMT
I found this on another forum. Another option is to try this lot for some chrome like powder coating. |
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Post by nellee on Apr 16, 2009 5:53:32 GMT
I like the idea of that powder coating, im going to give them a buzz and maybe get a wheel done to see what the finish is like, thanks Juan
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Post by nellee on Apr 19, 2009 13:16:28 GMT
the cleaned up motor awaiting new parts, on the way is chrome rear shocker, stainless flywheel cover etc etc, has taken some work with a screwdriver and two cans of gunk just to get it to this stage, would like to remove the flywheel but its tight as hell, help please...!!! Is it a right or left hand thread, and any tips on removing the flywheel itself would be appriciated, it it on a tapered shaft.....  thanks Paul   |
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Post by sweetpea on Apr 19, 2009 13:53:10 GMT
the cleaned up motor awaiting new parts, on the way is chrome rear shocker, stainless flywheel cover etc etc, has taken some work with a screwdriver and two cans of gunk just to get it to this stage, would like to remove the flywheel but its tight as hell, help please...!!! Is it a right or left hand thread, and any tips on removing the flywheel itself would be appriciated, it it on a tapered shaft..... thanks Paul Hi Paul, Nice job with the engine so far.. wish mine was as clean as that  The flywheel is removed by two methods depending on the type you have. The 1st one is via a flywheel puller tool which threads into the inside of the flywheel and as you tighten the bolt on the centre of the tool it pushed the flywheel away from the engine. The 2nd is by undoing the nut in the centre.... if i remember it is a normal anti clock thread to undo and there should be a circlip inside the flywheel which forces it from the engine as you unscrew the nut. Last time i did mine it was very tight.... just be careful nit the use the flywheel fins as leverage when undoing the nut... they have a tendancy to break easily. Mike |
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Post by Perkin on Apr 19, 2009 13:56:46 GMT
Engine looks a lot better now!
Nut is RH thread, flywheel sits on a taper located by a woodruf key.
You need a puller to remove the flywheel, and some method of holding it while you undo the nut...
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Post by Perkin on Apr 19, 2009 13:57:40 GMT
Haha! We crossed over, there.
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Post by nellee on Apr 19, 2009 14:29:40 GMT
thanks guys, back to sip for a flywheel puller then...!!!
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Post by Perkin on Apr 19, 2009 14:32:08 GMT
Naaah... just get one from Beedspeed!
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