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Post by silverfiesta on Sept 10, 2008 22:15:08 GMT
PK engine is complete so I'm gonna swap crank for the 125 primi, match casings to the molossi sort ignition as I have a pk100 stator and pk50 flywheel and job done (yea right). Fingers crossed the gears etc are ok although was running fine before upgrading my sons PK50 engine to a 100. Amazing the difference the 100 makes. Before swapping I couldnt believe how slow the motor was I only managed to get 28mph out of it but I was laying down with the wind behind me on a long slightly downhill straight. lol
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Post by silverfiesta on Sept 10, 2008 22:18:29 GMT
Juan its a 80s PK50 motor and I would really like to use the primi 125 crank to save some money. When you say gearing do you mean it will go through gears to quick and restrict top end?
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Post by breezer on Sept 11, 2008 4:57:17 GMT
you'll need to change the primary drive, as the 50 will probably be something stupidly low ratio wise.
I can't see you having any real problems
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Post by silverfiesta on Sept 11, 2008 10:37:59 GMT
Thanks breezer, what would you suggest Primi 24/61?
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Post by breezer on Sept 11, 2008 11:18:45 GMT
that'll be too high I'd have said.
I'd have said 2.86 standard v90 / v100 gearing. You can always upgear it slightly with a 90x90x10 rear tyre.
Other than that 2.7 or 2.6 but you'd probably need to do some work to increase the torque to get it to pull those sort of ratio's well
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Post by breezer on Sept 11, 2008 11:24:25 GMT
Oops sorry got confused thought this was the 100 top end on pk80 thread...
Basically any of the following:
2.86 2.70 2.60 2.56 2.54
Obviously the lower the gearing the quicker it will accelerate and the higher you'll need it to rev, the higher the gearing the more top end you'll have but the more torque you'll need.
a lot of it will depend on what pipe you plan on using / work on casing & barrel
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Post by silverfiesta on Sept 11, 2008 22:55:44 GMT
PMev40 pipe match the pk50 casings to the 136 molossi (keep cylinder as standard), primi 125 crank and 25mm direct intake carb and manifold.
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Post by breezer on Sept 12, 2008 5:06:19 GMT
PM pipe is very torquey - you should be fine with the primi (2.54) or aftermarket 2.56 gearing
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Post by silverfiesta on Sept 14, 2008 22:49:30 GMT
Having the frame powder coated so no filler - found this product called JB weld its Amercan comes in a tube like putty you cut a bit of and kneed it to activate - only get a few minutes working time though. The powder coating bloke says its the only thing that works in the extreme heat of the process - label says you can tap and dye it so must be strong. Filled all the small holes and scrapes it sands well also.
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Post by sugarlump on Sept 15, 2008 13:25:41 GMT
Hi silverfiesta,
I've got the same set up - malossi direct, 25mm phbh and a pm40 - very happy.
Never thought of using jb weld for body filling, i hope the chassis is pretty straight to start with! BTW If you ever find some stuff called 'devcon' it's much better for tap/die repairs than jb.
keep up the piccies ;D
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Post by silverfiesta on Sept 15, 2008 21:02:41 GMT
That's good as most people I'm speaking to are going for the polini. Been running molossi's on p2's and they are rock solid. Bits arrived today - always nice getting new scooter stuff its like Christmas. Decided I'm going to tune the PK cases I have and will also see if I can get some more out of the molossi kit. Next step is stripping the engine and seeing what needs replacing inside. Sip order arrived - doesn't look much for the money...
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Post by silverfiesta on Sept 18, 2008 22:22:38 GMT
Stripped the spare pk50 engine I had and only the gear selector is knackered, everything else looks ok. All bearings seem fine so gonna leave them alone. Its an electric start motor so will blank the hole. The xmas tree is stuck fast - no wobble bearing seems solid so will leave as is - don't intent to fit a short 4th gear. I can't believe how small a 50cc piston is, not much bigger than a screw top wine bottle top lol.
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Post by silverfiesta on Sept 26, 2008 23:39:30 GMT
Frame going to blasters tomorrow to see if any more holes... Also managed to fit the mudguard to pk forks.
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Post by madmax on Sept 27, 2008 7:53:10 GMT
Also managed to fit the mudguard to pk forks. How did you manage that? Any pics?
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Post by silverfiesta on Oct 5, 2008 23:00:01 GMT
Was gonna weld some extra aluminum to the forks to make new fixing holes but much easier to make up with a bracket, will take some picks.
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Post by silverfiesta on Oct 9, 2008 22:36:47 GMT
Ok here's the pics of the bracket I made to allow fitment of the oldstyle smallframe mudguard on the newer PK forks. I used 2mm aluminum sheet, also use countersink heads. I shaped the edges of the bracket - a hammer is good for this. This one shows the dent you need to make so the side fits flush - I hit it with a hammer. And you need to drill a new hole for the side bolt. The mudguard fitted - forks now ready for powder coating.
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Post by stewart on Oct 13, 2008 20:11:49 GMT
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Post by madmax on Oct 13, 2008 20:25:13 GMT
Ok here's the pics of the bracket I made to allow fitment of the oldstyle smallframe mudguard on the newer PK forks. I used 2mm aluminum sheet, also use countersink heads. I shaped the edges of the bracket - a hammer is good for this. This one shows the dent you need to make so the side fits flush - I hit it with a hammer. i335.photobucket.com/albums/m471/petersilvester/forkbracket2.jpg[/IMG] And you need to drill a new hole for the side bolt. The mudguard fitted - forks now ready for powder coating. [/quote] Ok, ta.
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Post by silverfiesta on Oct 13, 2008 20:32:59 GMT
Hey $tëwå®t nice pic this will look good on the scoot, will sort some graphics out.
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Post by stewart on Oct 13, 2008 20:35:14 GMT
did you mean the dick dastardly d in a circle logo? If so I can knock it up for you in colours to match the scoot silver 4 free
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