|
Post by hank on Jul 7, 2007 14:57:45 GMT
so first 2 kicks sounded fine, nearly started, then nothing, slack kick, flywheel wasn't moving with kickstart, though when i moved it by hand the piston moved up and down. ok, maybe kickstart spring or clutch, had messed around adjusting clutch with no difference made. so........dropped engine, split cases flywheel seemed ok, woodruf key still there, the kickstart spring's ok, all in place, the xmas tree gear thingies stayed in the crank side casing (presumes that ok? last time it came out with the flywheel side casing). When i move the kickstart, it meshes with the gears ok, piston & flywheel move. havn't taken the clutch off yet, but i can't turn it, so i think its tight and the woodruff key still in place. Any ideas? its a new 4 plate clutch, so i'm thinking of replacing with a standard 3 plate & reinforced spring anyway, whilst i've got it open, everyone tells me 4 plate clutches are crap
|
|
|
Post by tony on Jul 7, 2007 17:28:34 GMT
oi hank! did you split that motor without removing the clutch first!!! its not a prange you know!! ;D
|
|
|
Post by hank on Jul 7, 2007 17:36:20 GMT
took the clutch off first last time - should i have done the same this time ;D
|
|
|
Post by tony on Jul 7, 2007 18:13:03 GMT
thats baaad!! You may have well spun the woodruff key on the clutch mate but missed it cos you haven't taken it off yet.
|
|
|
Post by Juan on Jul 8, 2007 14:27:33 GMT
Mmmmm...........4 plate clutches,my favourite.* * -Drop the piece of shite in the bin.
|
|
|
Post by hank on Jul 8, 2007 15:40:32 GMT
woodruff key still in right place, strange.....after i'd bent back the tabbed washer, the nut was dead easy to remove, must do it tighter next time or even get a torgue wrench, how tight? dont really know what the problem was but i'll just get a whole new std 3 plate assembly + reinforced spring, fit it all together, engine back in and try again, if it doesnt work next time, there will be a new addition to the river ouse.
|
|
|
Post by tony on Jul 8, 2007 15:49:03 GMT
are the corks all burnt mate? otherwise is the kick start dog/spring ok?
|
|
|
Post by breezer on Jul 8, 2007 15:56:35 GMT
You got access to a torque wrench Hank?
I've got one you can borrow if not
Jim
|
|
|
Post by hank on Jul 8, 2007 21:03:52 GMT
it was a brand new (soaked in oil first) 4 plate clutch kit!
spring is still all in place, seems ok. might take you up on wrench offer Jim, though i shoudl really get one myself, got 2 more engines/frames to go after this one, could come in handy ;D
|
|
|
Post by tony on Jul 9, 2007 0:52:52 GMT
hank even if the nut was loose the woodruff key hadn't sheared so therefore this bit isnt the problem..I tend just to locktite the race ones with no tab washer. Terry at Taffs told me to do this years ago due to probs. But I have had threads strip off the christmas tree after doing this...
|
|
|
Post by tony on Jul 9, 2007 0:54:54 GMT
just had a thought-unusual but possible- primary drive woodruff key? Never had one go myself but i reckon that could be it. Either sheared or more likely missing.
|
|
|
Post by breezer on Jul 9, 2007 6:15:21 GMT
Give us a shout if you need to borrow it, need to pop through to York one evening anyway so I could call roundwith it.
Handy things to have though, you are right.
Jim
|
|
|
Post by hank on Jul 9, 2007 11:29:09 GMT
fairly sure I put the woodruff key back on with the primary drive, the tabbed washer's still bent up, i'll double check before i close up the engine.
|
|
|
Post by hank on Jul 14, 2007 12:40:45 GMT
took the primary drive cog off, once i'd bent the washer back, the nut was pretty loose, no need to jam the basket, just came off with my fingers! I'd put in a small woodruff key, think its the larger one on that side? I've changed it anyway, it seems to fit ok. the tabbed washers tab was chewed up, so maybe that was the problem? put the new clutch in, i'll close up the casings and put the engine back in, oh happy days
|
|
|
Post by tony on Jul 15, 2007 0:15:24 GMT
hi mate-yep the larger one..it normally sort of sits in the groove of the crank and locates slightly under the bearing face. Just a question..I've been on here a while and it seems that most people take the motor out each time to strip it. Is this because you all hate doing it on the floor? If so then I understand! I detest redoing gear cables and so I normally strip it in the frame. One day I'll make a quick release gear linkage or try anyway.
|
|
|
Post by hank on Jul 15, 2007 10:48:36 GMT
suppose its easier to work on once its out, but it is a pain, disconnecting everything, then pulling it out (especially on your own! my back is knackered today ). If you had some sort of lift/platform, i guess you could do quite a lot with the engine in.
|
|
|
Post by rupert on Aug 8, 2007 15:03:32 GMT
I thought you had to drop the motor to open the casings. New to smallframes and haven't had to do it....yet.
|
|
|
Post by hank on Aug 8, 2007 15:15:11 GMT
nope, you can do it without taking it out, though I've never tried.
you have to undo the rear suspension, take rear wheel off to let the engine drop enough to get at it. scootering magazine had a feature last year in which they replaced the clutch & cruciform this way.
|
|
|
Post by MiNiKiN on Aug 14, 2007 11:20:48 GMT
If you haven't got a motorcycle lift it's a real pain w/o removing the engine. like Tony i dislike undoing the cables, so last time I thought do it without removing, on the floor. Dismantling ---> easy! --- putting it back again --> pain in the a :-Xe tony: there is a bloke at the GSF who has invented such a gear cable quick relaese already. Interested? I can arrange contact if you like!
|
|
|
Post by tony on Aug 29, 2007 22:12:44 GMT
hi mate-its certainly worth a look! cheers
|
|