|
Post by unreliablesc on Apr 2, 2007 0:01:44 GMT
Lets start with the most important: The LT coil was shot om my PK stator, and as I couldn't buy a new LT coil on a Sunday I got another stator from a mate. It looks good, and i checked that the pickup and LT coil was working with a multimeter, 115 ohm over the pickup, and 530 ohms over the LT coil. I rewired the stator and put it in the 50 Special. Got one spark on the first kick, then i died on me. Lights work Have voltage over the pickup , and LT coil when turning the flywheel. Tested with 2 CDI's, both good, no go 3 good plug wires 2 good sparkplug caps 4 good plugs 2 flywheels according to my common sense, and the October issue of scootering it should spark. I don't understand whats going on, If anyone can give me a tip that makes it spark, I owe you for life. then, my other problem. The PV runs (with the stator that is supposed to be in the v50 ). Rear and brake light works, but there is no juice at the horn or headlight. Anyone have any experience with the loom SIP sells for electronic ignition conversions??
|
|
|
Post by jonnysnatchsniffer on Apr 2, 2007 8:16:16 GMT
just wire the stator to the cdi and leave the ignition/cutout wire off these are usually green but i dont know your loom and if it works ok you mite have a short in the wire somwhere or the kill switch coud be fucked
|
|
|
Post by unreliablesc on Apr 4, 2007 10:42:16 GMT
thanks for the tip. already tried that, not the problem.
|
|
|
Post by unreliablesc on Apr 4, 2007 14:55:04 GMT
Got it running. I replaced the pickup with a new one, although the old one should work. Nice to know that a pickup can be shot even though the ohm readings are good.
Got the lights working on the primmy to, but not the horn. I have one blue and one white wire going from the switch to the horn, the blue one feeds the brake light too. am i supposed to earth the white to make it honk?
|
|
|
Post by unreliablesc on May 6, 2007 19:32:47 GMT
Still can get the bloody horn button to work as intended on the PV. I have done some modifications on the switch that should work but... I have cut the conductor (1.) Bent the tabs (2) so the horn button is now an closer soldered an earth wire to the point (3.) on the switch. from what i have heard and my common sense this should work. But, even though I have bent up the tabs there is still a closed circuit over the horn button, so now the horn is activated when the on/off switch all the way to the right, and the break light will only work when the horn is activated. Any ideas? faulty switch?
|
|
|
Post by atufte on May 6, 2007 21:26:33 GMT
|
|
|
Post by unreliablesc on May 7, 2007 16:07:41 GMT
Maybe 's time to get my hands on a proper switch. It's just a shame making an order when i don't need anything else.
BTW, atufte, looks like I don't get to ride a SF to Oslo, some bastards stole my cutdown.
|
|
|
Post by atufte on May 8, 2007 20:32:57 GMT
Maybe 's time to get my hands on a proper switch. It's just a shame making an order when i don't need anything else. BTW, atufte, looks like I don't get to ride a SF to Oslo, some bastards stole my cutdown. I'm so sorry to hear that, who the fuck think they can ride that badass cutdown without getting noticed, i will keep my eyes open, but they will probably just take the parts, and throw the rest in the sea, fucking bastards... But you will take the trip to Oslo on the CSR, no matter what...?
|
|
|
Post by Juan on May 8, 2007 22:11:44 GMT
some bastards stole my cutdown. >:(Bastards!May they contract AIDS and suffer a long and unpleasant demise.
|
|