Post by habibi on Dec 4, 2023 13:01:34 GMT
Good Afternoon From South Africa, I have been discussing this build since 2017 and in 2020 I was able to purchase all the bits for the bike and build commenced. I decided my tech knowhow was lacking so gave the Motor to a local Mechanic who specializes in tune build to do the work.
it is now getting a little much for me and I am hoping maybe someone here can advise, the Mechanic recently sent the following email to Andy (Worb5) and to me and I suggested I also ask on this group.
Please can someone help up here I really want my bike back in my garage and running and not at the mechanic any longer
"Good Day Andy
My Name is Tony, I am the person responsible for building Gerhard Habib's SS90 replica with the Worb5 Polini GS 130 kit. We have been struggling for some time with this bike, and I have now gotten to the point where I feel I have tried almost everything and still the Setup feels wrong.
This is the current setup in parts:
Polini GS 130cc - GS piston, Malossi Head, Polini cast iron barrel
SIP PV style casings
Port matched on side ports, half on 3rd port
JL VSP Road exhaust
Mazzu race crank - 51mm stroke 97mm rod, std disk valve timing
Malossi PHBL25 carb setup, intake changed to a straight intake, not reed
29/68 straight cut gear ratio - 2.34
SIP Vape with variable ignition
Only work to casings has been the port matching, have not played with intake timings yet. I have tried a multitude of different Jetting setups, ignition timing combinations, different thicknesses on the base gasket and still I get a low performing engine, struggling to rev past 8000rpm. It also heats up very quickly and struggles to operate under 150deg celsius.
Do you have any suggestions I can try?
With no spacer under the cylinder, I read 174deg exhaust timing, 110deg intake timing, with the rotary opening at 71deg BTDC and closing at 50deg ATDC.
It must be said, that the previous iteration of this engine was on the stock V9a1m casings, and there I did clear out all the material around the rotary vane and ran a reed valve intake. It made more power than it does now, but had a very nasty misfire between 6500rpm and 7000rpm that was so hard to get past that it could only do it in 2nd gear. It pulled very well over that mark, but the casings started leaking from the gear selector and we opted to rather go with new ones. Would you suggest going back to the reed valve and clearing out the material on the new casings? I am hesitant to do this as it didnt quite work on the previous setup."
any help with the above would be great or perhaps if anyone needs more information on the attempts already please dont hesitate to ask
it is now getting a little much for me and I am hoping maybe someone here can advise, the Mechanic recently sent the following email to Andy (Worb5) and to me and I suggested I also ask on this group.
Please can someone help up here I really want my bike back in my garage and running and not at the mechanic any longer
"Good Day Andy
My Name is Tony, I am the person responsible for building Gerhard Habib's SS90 replica with the Worb5 Polini GS 130 kit. We have been struggling for some time with this bike, and I have now gotten to the point where I feel I have tried almost everything and still the Setup feels wrong.
This is the current setup in parts:
Polini GS 130cc - GS piston, Malossi Head, Polini cast iron barrel
SIP PV style casings
Port matched on side ports, half on 3rd port
JL VSP Road exhaust
Mazzu race crank - 51mm stroke 97mm rod, std disk valve timing
Malossi PHBL25 carb setup, intake changed to a straight intake, not reed
29/68 straight cut gear ratio - 2.34
SIP Vape with variable ignition
Only work to casings has been the port matching, have not played with intake timings yet. I have tried a multitude of different Jetting setups, ignition timing combinations, different thicknesses on the base gasket and still I get a low performing engine, struggling to rev past 8000rpm. It also heats up very quickly and struggles to operate under 150deg celsius.
Do you have any suggestions I can try?
With no spacer under the cylinder, I read 174deg exhaust timing, 110deg intake timing, with the rotary opening at 71deg BTDC and closing at 50deg ATDC.
It must be said, that the previous iteration of this engine was on the stock V9a1m casings, and there I did clear out all the material around the rotary vane and ran a reed valve intake. It made more power than it does now, but had a very nasty misfire between 6500rpm and 7000rpm that was so hard to get past that it could only do it in 2nd gear. It pulled very well over that mark, but the casings started leaking from the gear selector and we opted to rather go with new ones. Would you suggest going back to the reed valve and clearing out the material on the new casings? I am hesitant to do this as it didnt quite work on the previous setup."
any help with the above would be great or perhaps if anyone needs more information on the attempts already please dont hesitate to ask