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Post by sfcoaster on Sept 19, 2016 20:53:02 GMT
I want to convert my 1974 US spec v90 to non battery. The scoot originally had blinkers but I removed them. I'm changing the ignition over to an ET3 stator. So, I need to decide what to do at the junction box and the battery box. I have done some reading but electronic issues are my least favorite thing to deal with. The scoot is in need a couple more things to run, so I can't test anything yet. I'm just trying to get to get a jump on this wiring so I can ride! I posted whatever seemed useful below.  Above is where I'm at with it on the Battery box side. I have a 3 pole regulator installed. Wires in battery box from v90 loomGreen Black Yellow Yellow Red White (large) White (small) Green and white Cdi from et3Green White Red  These are the wires I'm getting from the ET3 stator and the 1974 V90 loom. ET3 stator to junction box Blue black yellow red V90 loom to junction box Black Grey Yellow Yellow Violet  This is how the battery wiring looked in the battery box when I got it. I'm not sure if this is original because wires had been cut and tampered with.  Above is a V90, Primavera, 100 with indicators wiring diagram. |
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Post by jbcollier on Sept 20, 2016 14:22:09 GMT
ET3 wiring diagram (your stator): scooterhelp.com/electrics/wiring/VMB1T.pdfUS 90 wiring diagram (your scoot): scooterhelp.com/electrics/wiring/VMA2_V9A.wblink.pdfThe ET3 does not have a regulator and uses normally-open switches to turn things "off" by shorting the circuit to ground. The ET3 has two power circuits: one for the brake and tail lights (yellow/blue), and the other for the horn/headlight (red/black). The 90 uses a battery to power the the tail light, signals, brake light and horn with normally-closed switches to turn things "off" by interrupting the power supply. The 90 has a single power circuit (yellow/yellow) feeding the regulator. and key switch to make things work There is no simple way to marry the two. Option #1 Replace the harness, switches and horn to match the ET3 stator Option #2 Fit a 6v battery and two DC regulators (one for the red feed and the other for the yellow/blue) and feed the scootes red circuit off one reg and the scoot's green/brown off the other. Personally, I'd go with option #1. |
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Post by henri on Sept 21, 2016 6:00:46 GMT
as jb says , i think i'd re-wire to match the stator ,but rather than keeping the complicated 7 wire stator with its mixed 12 an 6 volt set up .re-coil it so its the simpler all 12 volt 5 wire set up . change the brake light switch an lights switch an run a simpler 12 volt regulated system .H
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Post by sfcoaster on Sept 21, 2016 19:56:39 GMT
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Post by sdjohn on Sept 21, 2016 23:08:42 GMT
That ET3 diagram looks like non-USA. Where are the signals? Didn't USA ET3 use a battery? If your ET3 stator is from the USA, does it match the diagram?
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Post by sfcoaster on Sept 22, 2016 1:45:20 GMT
The stator is wired exactly like the diagram as jb posted above. It came off of a non battery/non indicator Euro bike (Mr.J's blue ET3). If there was a way to make this work I'm willing to bodge it together. It seems like it's more work than it's worth. The stator is in great shape and recently rewired, I'm sure someone can use it.
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Post by jbcollier on Sept 22, 2016 12:37:15 GMT
The ET3 never officially came to the US. Some have been imported privately. The US, and Canada, received the 100 Sport.
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Post by sdjohn on Sept 22, 2016 15:49:36 GMT
Sfcoaster if it came from Mr J it's good enough for me. The ET3's never were officially imported? I see way more of those than I do other gray market bikes like PKs or T5s. I just find that surprising, but you learn something new every day.
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Post by sfcoaster on Sept 22, 2016 19:44:11 GMT
Yeah, it seems ET3s have been popping up lately. I'm actually going to run the scooter with this ET3 ignition and no lights for a while. I want to drive it a little before I start fiddling more. Def not going to go battery because I removed this for my banana...  And I'll probably need to remove more later when I put on this...  |
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Post by tzsteve on Sept 22, 2016 20:38:03 GMT
have you considered using a large capacitor instead of a battery, loads of info on the net. batery eliminators is what you google
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Post by jbcollier on Sept 23, 2016 14:17:55 GMT
Yes, it would be much easier to wire in the single wire stator and 12VAC regulator.
Assuming the five wires on the new single circuit stator are green, white, red, blue and black then:
Engine/CDi box
Red, white and green stator wires to CDi box
Purple harness wire to second verde (green) terminal on CDi box
Black harness to black stator wire
Blue stator wire to new reg (use one or more harness yellows)
New reg
Harness black to ground terminal and body ground
Yellow(s) to one I/O terminal
Harness green, red, green/white stripe to other I/O terminal
Install AC horn and replace all bulbs with 12v equivalents.
I could also come up with a scheme to connect what you have but it would be much more complicated and require two separate regulators.
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Post by sfcoaster on Sept 23, 2016 17:17:27 GMT
Thanks for the detailed instructions jb, I'm thinking the stator I was recommended is exactly like you described. The same PL170 stator is listed on SIP and you can see the wire colors much better... www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/stator+plate+for+vespa+pk50_43019250My one question is finding the purple kill wire from the loom that needs to connect to the CDI (in the last green terminal). I don't have purple kill wire in my battery box wiring but I do have one in my junction box. It actually looks violet but it's probably just faded. Do I pull a wire from the purple in the junction box over to the CDI? |
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Post by jbcollier on Sept 24, 2016 14:29:37 GMT
Yup, the purple wire is at the junction box. You'll have to run it to wherever you mount the CDi box. That looks to be the same stator as the first link.
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Post by sfcoaster on Sept 26, 2016 23:33:26 GMT
Thanks jb, I looked at the wiring diagram again and that makes sense to me now. Yes, those stators are the same. I posted the second because it showed the wires and confirmed what you said.
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