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Post by GeorgeS on May 15, 2014 13:11:16 GMT
My PK forks arrive from Italy. £75ish delivered, so not too bad. Looks like I've got some work to do before theses can be used: I've seen the axle's on eBay for as little as £7 delivered (India), and there's a few old posts from 2010 on here saying they can be pressed out/in, so not the end of the world I hope. More fucking money!
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Post by nickj on May 15, 2014 18:45:57 GMT
Oh I hate buying old parts off fleabag!!! I reckon at least half of them end up in the bin but what else can you do if you don't find what u need locally or on here....
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Post by GeorgeS on May 16, 2014 7:34:26 GMT
I know what you mean, but these were 2nd hand and you go in to the sale knowing its a bit of a gamble. Besides, I kind of like the challenge of taking something that's knackered or shite & making it good again. Stick a spanner in my hand & I'm happy.
Time, trouble & money as the saying goes....
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PK Forks
May 16, 2014 21:26:58 GMT
via mobile
Post by firej on May 16, 2014 21:26:58 GMT
That sucks that's how they came?
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Post by GeorgeS on May 25, 2014 10:17:32 GMT
Done a bit more work on these forks. I borrowed a home-made press from my old man: Using this and a bit of heat it was pretty easy to press out the axle, once it starts moving it's all good. Not sure if the position of that little flat bit on the axle is important, so took a picture for reference. The needle bearings also came out easy. Still waiting for my new £7 (delivered) 20mm axle to arrive from India, interested to see what actually turns up, but hopefully these forks can be made good with not too much more hassle.
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Post by GeorgeS on Jul 29, 2014 14:52:44 GMT
Over the weekend I spend some time working on fitting the V-Range mudguard to PK forks. Someone on Facebook was asking for some tips so here's some notes that may help. I started with working out where the rear mounting hole should be, and for me it was about 13 or 14mm back from the hole and around 8mm across from the seam edge: I reckon the edge of the seam is the centre line for the mudguard. After making that hole you can then bolt the mudguard on & mark up where the existing opening needs adjustment. You'll be left with a gap at the front: I'm in the process of welding a bit in there & cleaning up. I had to trim back one of the suspension mounts, the front (right side in picture) one more than rear: Also, the plate needed taking back a bit to get things seated better: Not looking too bad, still some finishing & levelling to sort out: Not sure what to do with the side bolt hole. I will either re-position it or weld a bold/stud on the inside to where the PK bracket location is, placing a 'dummy' bolt in the old hole.
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PK Forks
Jul 29, 2014 18:43:25 GMT
via mobile
Post by 3 speed Gareth on Jul 29, 2014 18:43:25 GMT
Thanks for posting this up. Ive got one to fit once my new mudguard arrives so this will really help.
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Post by sugarlump on Jul 31, 2014 14:01:33 GMT
I would dry fit the hub and shock before you do anymore to the mudguard because that's what causes the interference. The holes will be the least of your worries! Good luck though fella, it's not a fun job this one.
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Post by GeorgeS on Jul 31, 2014 14:56:08 GMT
Thanks for the advice, next job is to trim down the shock bracket and fit it together, hopefully everything will behave.
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Post by GeorgeS on Aug 2, 2014 8:11:32 GMT
Job is just about finished now: I'm maybe slightly off centre, but you have to really look at it dead on to notice. It gets very tight up top, some trimming is needed: Just a standard shock on there at the moment, that's something to change at a later date.
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Post by sugarlump on Aug 6, 2014 10:47:23 GMT
You've done well. I would say dry fit with the parts you ultimately want on the bike in case a better shock has a wider spring or in my case the RM24 had a rebound adjuster that got in the way...
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