Rally help needed

[allspeed]

Hi all.

I havent ever worked on early large frame vespas , only smallies and Px.
I have a Rally 1973 which need some light work but i need some help on how to go about a few things.
Firstly the logbook says 180cc i thought they were 200 cc ?
secondly i need to fit an inner clutch cable, as the headset top doesnt lift away do i gain access to it with the headlight removed or through the lever hole with the lever removed ?
Lastly, this looks like a points model, it keeps breaking down every time its ridden and i would like to check/replace the points, condenser and check the stator wiring, but will i need a puller to remove the flywheel ? All i can see on a quick glance is a circlip in the middle?

Hope someone can offer an insight, im no einstein but its my mates scoot, he brought it 18 months ago fully restored from a long way from where we are and as i say, every time hes ridden it , the buggers packed up. The clutch cale being the most recent icing on the cake and it refuses to go at all now.

Someone please help as its an otherwise expensive ornament and with all the mirrors fitted is a bloody liabilty with my kids near it


Also could have sworn i was allready a member here or a very simaler site, but my username and email wasnt reconised so i registered again. Im getting old ya know ;D

[Boamspeed]

Hi,

There were two rally models, the 180 & 200.

You will have to remove the clutch lever to change the inner and it may be possible to feed the new one in by holding onto the outer. If you look underneath the headset you should see the outer as it comes out the cutaway of the gearchange tube.

It may be hard to feed the inner in due to the bend in the outer as it goes into the frame. In this case it will be easier if you pop the speedo up out of the headset and withdraw the outer to this point. You can then feed the inner through the clutch lever housing to the speedo hole then down the outer. When the inner is out the other end you can then feed the outer back into the clutch lever housing to its stop.

Its worth pointing out some clutch/brake inners have a fixed nipple at the lever end whilst others (better ones) are rounded with a detachable nipple.

Regarding the breaking down every time it's used, are you checking for a spark when this happens?

By your description it sounds like you have a self extracting flywheel. The Flywheel nut should be shouldered and when undone will come into contact with the circlip and pull the flywheel off the crankshaft. You will need a flywheel holder to undo the nut and the circlip needs to be in good condition for this to work.

If you haven't already done so I would be more inclined to check over the plug, ht cap/lead, coil before you start changing anything at the stator, that's assuming it is an ignition problem.

Best of luck....

[Juan]

Could be a 180 or a 200, you'd need to measure the cylinder bore to know for sure. Most of the 200's were Electronic but if it's the early Femsa type then they're a nightmare once they start playing up so if this is the case you'd best warn your mate his best option will to go for a full Ducati conversion which will also mean changing the crank and getting a conversion loom. If it's a 180 it could be a case of refurbing the stator but be warned the condensor's available today tend to be utter shite.

[allspeed]

Apr 29, 2013 20:29:31 GMT Boamspeed said:

Hi,

There were two rally models, the 180 & 200.

You will have to remove the clutch lever to change the inner and it may be possible to feed the new one in by holding onto the outer. If you look underneath the headset you should see the outer as it comes out the cutaway of the gearchange tube.

It may be hard to feed the inner in due to the bend in the outer as it goes into the frame. In this case it will be easier if you pop the speedo up out of the headset and withdraw the outer to this point. You can then feed the inner through the clutch lever housing to the speedo hole then down the outer. When the inner is out the other end you can then feed the outer back into the clutch lever housing to its stop.

Its worth pointing out some clutch/brake inners have a fixed nipple at the lever end whilst others (better ones) are rounded with a detachable nipple.

Regarding the breaking down every time it's used, are you checking for a spark when this happens?

By your description it sounds like you have a self extracting flywheel. The Flywheel nut should be shouldered and when undone will come into contact with the circlip and pull the flywheel off the crankshaft. You will need a flywheel holder to undo the nut and the circlip needs to be in good condition for this to work.

If you haven't already done so I would be more inclined to check over the plug, ht cap/lead, coil before you start changing anything at the stator, that's assuming it is an ignition problem.

Best of luck....

Thanks for that, i will sort the clutch first, then try and get it running which it isnt currently. My brother in law is not in the slightest mechanically minded, but he said every time he tried to ride it it would break down and not re-start till it was cold. Thats all i have to go on, and im not full licence so any testing i will be doing will be very limited.

I hope to fix the clutch, and get it running which it currently isnt where its been sitting in a damp shed. And then hopefully it will either brake down on the stand whilst running or on the very short trips round the back roads im prepared to illegally test it on
As long as it stops i can check for lost spark etc to give me somewhere to start looking. Just dont want to pushing the mirrored bugger up the hill to my gaff unless i can help it.

I looked last night and its sparking fine, so shouldnt take much to at least get it started. My thinking was to take the flywheel off and have a look for any obvious problems or bodgery before i did anything to the ignition. The bikes meant to have been fully restored recently before he brought it but its going home on the paint and chrome already due to poor winter storage. Shame really as hes probably got loads of money in it and hasnt got any enjoyment from it yet just grief.

So will get an clutch inner on order and will back with my progress

One last thing, this condeser quality issue seems rife across anything petrol powered these days, why on earth cant stuff be made that actually works for more than 100 miles Are there any suppliers that can be recomended for points and condenser for this if it turns out i need them ?

DId i say last thing ;D Sorry just to confirm it will still run with a flat battery, it doesnt need one to enable the engine to run does it?

[Boamspeed]

I don't think you need a battery for starting as there just used for the lighting, I'm not familiar with femsatronic models though.

Agree with you on the poor quality of condensors available, you actually describe the symptom of a malfunctioning one. Are you able to fit an old one?