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Post by stevem on Dec 10, 2011 16:53:11 GMT
your doin a bloody good job there ;D ;D ;D
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Post by allsorts on Dec 11, 2011 23:06:58 GMT
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Post by allsorts on Dec 11, 2011 23:39:55 GMT
I released the previous tacks so I could start again. I used the sheet metal clamps to better-align the left panel and got a few tacks in place. I bet this looks familiar, Sugarlump. In the end I was able to get enough tacks in to make me feel this was going to work. Phew. OK, there was still a huge rust hole near the front, but I have aplan (of sorts) for this area too. I knew all was not well on the right hand side, but I was happy with the left, so I thought this would have to do. However, clsoer inspection of the right panel showed that some of the curves were not the same with Spanish and Italian frames. I still don't know if I over-reacted, but I decided to cut the whole right hand side off, and replace it with a remade part I got from Germany. My reasoning was that the RHS panel was badly corroded above the rear light, and I need no compromises around the area of the engine door, which has got to fit well. I chose to cut the panel much higher (underneath the rear of the seat) as this would help to disguise the weld and stagger the joins on the LHS and the RHS. The panel was cut, but the support at the front of the panel was left intact as a reference point. I then cut the new panel to match and trim-up the rear centre seam. I also had to "move" the frame number. I ran out of time, but I'm still making progress (and loving doing it)
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Post by allsorts on Dec 12, 2011 23:16:30 GMT
So tonight there was some tentative angle grinding (if there is such a thing) of the brand new RHS panel. After a bit of work, I got the new panel to slip-in quite tidily. I am sure it won't be quite right. Meanwhile, it looks presentable.
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Post by amazombi on Dec 13, 2011 18:24:21 GMT
Those clamp thingies are cool as fuck.
It's more than presentable. You need to remember that you've been staring at everything from close up for quite some time by now, once you've done that every small details starts to look like Mt. Everest.
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Post by Spanish Rob on Dec 13, 2011 22:56:24 GMT
Swab... Forceps... CAF clamp thingies
Its smallframe ER that's what it is!
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Post by allsorts on Dec 13, 2011 23:22:51 GMT
Despite the promising appearance of the pre-weld photo above, there was a surprising amount of trimming to get it to a point where I was happy to light-up the torch (but light-it up I did!) Before I weld-up the back seam, I need to re-attach the bracket that runs inside the bodywork, behind the number plate. It had been cut in a couple of places, so I have re-welded it and given it a coat of paint (that will probably burn off when I weld it back onto the scooter)
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Post by Spanish Rob on Dec 14, 2011 13:49:17 GMT
mental! what next?
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Post by jacques on Dec 14, 2011 18:25:24 GMT
You can buy Zinc rich weld through primer, is good for protecting areas you cover up and wont be able to get to later. Otherwise some excellent work! Keep it up!
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Post by allsorts on Dec 14, 2011 18:27:11 GMT
A good question Robert. I might be tackling the legshields shortly, but first I have a question about the internal brace that runs vertially from the bottom of the LHS bubble to up near the top of the rear shock.
I haven't got one. Should I fit one, or does it just get in the way?
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Post by madmax on Dec 14, 2011 18:45:27 GMT
I have a question about the internal brace that runs vertially from the bottom of the LHS bubble to up near the top of the rear shock. I haven't got one. Should I fit one, or does it just get in the way? That brace is for strengthening the lhs bubble but in its place you could weld some steel rod to the bottom lip of the bubble.
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Post by swallow on Dec 14, 2011 20:05:31 GMT
A good question Robert. I might be tackling the legshields shortly, but first I have a question about the internal brace that runs vertially from the bottom of the LHS bubble to up near the top of the rear shock. I haven't got one. Should I fit one, or does it just get in the way? As Max says, you do need ome form of bracing there, otherwise the vibration will rapidly lead to splits in the bubble.
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Post by allsorts on Dec 14, 2011 23:26:51 GMT
Thanks guys, I thought as much. My only thought was that someone would say "what did you weld THAT in for? You have to cut that out if you want to fit any form of performance pipe" or something like that. OK, next problem. I have a big bit of panel missing on the LHS. It was missing on both the original panel, and the replacement from Stevem. Has anyone a photo showing what this area looks like when it is complete?
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numpty
SS 90
bloody cheep rubish from ebay wont stay lit
Posts: 231
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Post by numpty on Dec 15, 2011 8:47:10 GMT
just read this thread. omg what a mamoth task you set your self, but feck me boyo your doing a tidy job with that excellent work mate keep it up
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Post by vesparep1 on Dec 15, 2011 9:04:27 GMT
just read this thread. omg what a mamoth task you set your self, but feck me boyo your doing a tidy job with that excellent work mate keep it up as above ,top work going on there fella
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Post by bikegrim on Dec 15, 2011 11:02:56 GMT
is this any good?
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Post by allsorts on Dec 15, 2011 23:26:51 GMT
Perfect BG.
I can use that.
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Post by pedro10012000 on Dec 16, 2011 21:55:03 GMT
If it's any help (and not already obvious) the curves of your rusted/missing area are mirror image of the opposite side panel
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Post by allsorts on Dec 18, 2011 23:12:04 GMT
Thanks Pedro. I've tried to use that info too, but the door, even when in place, it more of a distraction to the true curve of the panel than I expected. Taking advice from Tony O, I have used some 1/4" steel rod to bend to shape along the bottom of the LHS panel. The intention here is to create the bottom-line of the panel (including the area where there is no panel), and strengthen the panel so I don't need the internal brace mentioned above. It took a while to shape the rod to the bottom of the panel and then it was held in place with an assortment of mole-grips and clamps during welding. I chose the bronze weld (braze) the rod to the panel, as the panel is very corroded. Bronze welding needs less heat than welding, so the sheet metalwork is more likely to survive a process that needs less heat. There is planty of blobby bronze on the join, but this is all underneath and therefore out of sight. It will tidy-up, I'm sure. I have also fixed the strengthener into the back of the frame using much the same techniques with bronze weld in order to avoid the rick of distortion.
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Post by allsorts on Dec 19, 2011 23:52:34 GMT
So another couple of hours in the workshop tonight. The task was to start filling the nasty rust hole at the front of the LHS panel. My metal working skills are not so good that I can carefully manufacture a whole new section and weld it in: this was going to have to be manufactured from several sections of sheet metal. The lip at the bottom was an issue, but I remembered the solution featured elsewhere for forming the lip on the edge of the legshields that utilised a hand-held hydraulic crimping tool. I have one of these tools. I fitted the largest former into the jaws and tried to crimp the edge of some sheet steel around an offcut of the 1/4" rod and squashed it. It was good. I started to fashion a piece of sheet steel to cover the whole area, but soon after the photo was taken, I cut it in half so I could deal with the job in smaller sections. After a bit of tacking, I was able to join the dots and grind it. I'm quite pleased. My luck will run out soon.
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