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jets
Feb 7, 2010 7:26:10 GMT
Post by scooterdave1970 on Feb 7, 2010 7:26:10 GMT
just bought a malossi 166 cases matched and ported 26mil carb with revolver exchaust . nips up when doing 70mph all the time its got a 135 main jet in been dynod plug is oily can any 1 give me some tips please running on autolube noticed the bloke was using shit oil also
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jets
Feb 7, 2010 9:03:09 GMT
Post by Juan on Feb 7, 2010 9:03:09 GMT
Your main jet sounds miles too big for a start, I'd be thinking more in the 120 area, but you need to find out what the atomiser is too.
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jets
Feb 7, 2010 12:35:23 GMT
Post by scooterdave1970 on Feb 7, 2010 12:35:23 GMT
i thought it was miles to big aswell but if it nips up doing 70mph that must meen no enougfuel and oil so if i down size the jet that meens less fuel deosnt it or am i wrong mate
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jets
Feb 8, 2010 0:49:18 GMT
Post by OliMonster on Feb 8, 2010 0:49:18 GMT
True, but having the wrong atomiser can affect the motor as badly as having the wrong jet. Check out what it is and I'm sure Juan the Jetting Guru will get back to you with more of his wise words... ;D
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jets
Feb 8, 2010 3:13:40 GMT
Post by paddyfitz on Feb 8, 2010 3:13:40 GMT
I encounter a lot of guys who leave their fuel lines an inch or two too long, resulting in good initial jetting results, but any extended period of open throttle makes it go lean. 160/be3/135 or even 140 isn't uncommon for a setup like that for us, but I do find that the si26 carbs (over here) are fuel hungry to a fault. I've had guys go back and forth between a 24 & a 26 and still never be able to give that setup enough juice to make it happy. I think those pipes make it real thirsty up high. I've even thrown be4/be5 back in there and still had 'em lean out after periods of open throttle. Most of our guys end up w/a 26,28 or 30 phb w/ a float needle valve aperture of 220+. They're still thirsty after that, but more stable at speed for sure. Maybe that helps, maybe not. Perspective or something... My 2 pence. ;D
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jets
Feb 8, 2010 4:54:16 GMT
Post by scooterdave1970 on Feb 8, 2010 4:54:16 GMT
thanks guys
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jets
Feb 8, 2010 17:59:22 GMT
Post by scooteristforever on Feb 8, 2010 17:59:22 GMT
if your bike nips up all the time at 70 Dave, i would be taking the top end off as soon as.... check and inspect for any damage... it WILL CONTINUE to either nip or sieze solid in the long run if you dont.... dont want to sound negative mate, but it could be costly long term....
i realise the benefits of having a scoot set properly on a dyno, but jesus if i had a quid for every lad ive heard of thats allegedly been running far to rich on the dyno... leaner adjustments are then made, only to seize on the way home from the shop..... and nobody likes loading their scooter onto the back of the big yellow taxi do they.......
good luck with the settings
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jets
Feb 8, 2010 21:24:59 GMT
Post by Juan on Feb 8, 2010 21:24:59 GMT
Paddy makes a very valid point that's definately worth looking at ref. the fuel pipe length. I had a severe headache with my old Cosa 200 about 7 years ago until I tracked it back to that.
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jets
Feb 9, 2010 13:27:16 GMT
Post by me on Feb 9, 2010 13:27:16 GMT
couple of things, are you cleaning the high spots after you "nip up" if not, it will keep siezing in that point and the high point will get worse, the fuel tap the carb banjo and float chamber can be modified to flow more fuel, you can even bore out the needle valve seat and put in a bigger needle valve to help fuel flow which you really need to flow as much as you can, also check for the feul filler cap, you can drill out the air hole in the cap larger to help with pressure equalization.
Also have seen bored out 24s witch have been bored on the piss and leak around the slide on the edge causeing an air leak.
Are you running airfilter or not? has it been drilled?
I run 2 malossi's 166 one with standard carb 24 with a 128 main no filter and a full blown bored out reed valved Modified PM piped 30mm delly help me type - and have never had a nip on either.
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