|
Post by robert on Sept 15, 2019 17:02:55 GMT
|
|
|
Post by triffid on Sept 17, 2019 9:01:08 GMT
good price for a reed valve set up
|
|
|
Post by robert on Sept 17, 2019 9:05:40 GMT
|
|
|
Post by triffid on Sept 18, 2019 17:12:20 GMT
I would say yes but someone may correct me (I am by no means an expert, just what I have gathered from general chit chat), if you have direct induction you do not need the rotary induction so a full circle more balanced I think(think I can see a case blank for 3 hole carb inlet in the piccy). Make sure the crank will fit your flywheel (19 or 20mm) - that BGM one is 20mm. Think the BGM stuff is good quality and can handle good loads but there are cheaper ones out there such as Mazzucelli that may be more suited for a mid range kit. I would think a 24-26mm carb would probably be ok but you could go up to 28 but I have no idea on what to recommend beyond that, depends on what you want out of your kit. I would renew your bearings if putting this kit in to ensure they can handle the extra power, upgear slightly and don't forget to upgrade the clutch and of course the exhaust (never ending cost eh).
Parma can probably advise further if you contact them direct but this is copy from SIP site (who are 90 euro more for this kit): It's been a long time since the last aluminum cylinder for the large small frame models left the halls of Pinasco! The wait is over at last! Once again you can show your 3.00-10 tires to an admiring world. PARMAKIT has brought the legendary Pinasco Direct Intake Kit back to life! Thanks to support from Italian racing champion Stefano Scauri, this cylinder kit has been brought up to date! For those who value a classic old school small frame cylinder in revised form to fit modern demands. The ideal beginner cylinder for small frames with performance from 12-16 hp, depending on modification. The motor casing must be modified, but does not need to be welded in the first level of modification. The manifold is designed for Vespa V50/PV/ET3 models When used in Vespa PK models, the driver passage will need additional modification. With central spark plugs, the spark plug opening in the cylinder cap must be aligned. The ECV versions are delivered with a cheaper, cast cylinder head. Conclusion: wide range of uses, depending on level of tuning, from daily motor scooter fun to sporty cruising. Aluminum / 57mm bore / 5 transfers / 130 cc Aluminum cylinder, 51 mm stroke, 5 transfers/ each side 2 large divided auxiliary transfers, direct intake with 4 flap reeds, VERTEX piston with 1.5 mm piston ring, 8 mm exhaust studs, 8x screwed centered CNC milled cylinder head (anodized blue), compression 13:1. Includes cover for casing intake and gasket set. Available in four versions with centered/conventional spark plug positions and 25/30 mm manifolds. Motor periphery should match the performance increase and jets should be adjusted. Fits all Vespa PV/ET3/PK/XL/XL2 models, excepting automatic. Your motor casing should be modified to fit the larger cylinder transfers. SIP-TIP: racing crankcase with 20/20 or 24/25 cone, racing exhaust such as PM40, FRANZ or VSP Race, 24-30's carburetor, Tassinari VForce reed valve Art.-Nr. 27422000 and electronic ignition such as VESPATRONIC/PARMAKIT, recommend primary from 2.86 to 2.36. SIP Community user Chris "belisach" "Sweet aluminum cylinder.... perfect for those who love small frame Malossi direct intakes. Transfers are very similar except for the boots, the pistons show more durability. Transfers cannot be milled out quite as far as the Malossi. The inlet manifold is bombastic."
|
|
|
Post by robert on Sept 18, 2019 22:21:56 GMT
Thanks a lot for all great info. Im also converting to electronic ignition (pinasco flytech 1.4kg) so changing to 20mm cone. Replacing almost everything in the engine (bearings, seals, some worn gear parts ...). Im aiming for 15hp if thats possible with that kit. Any clutch that you can recommend and what primary gear ratio would be good for this setup? Appreciate it, thanks!
|
|
|
Post by tzsteve on Sept 19, 2019 15:59:00 GMT
avotechina.com VMC on ebay are cheaper
I would expect that kit to make 15 to 17 bhp with no problem look for a decent pipe and get the brakes working as good as you can
|
|
|
Post by robert on Sept 23, 2019 14:01:39 GMT
|
|
|
Post by robert on Oct 5, 2019 17:53:28 GMT
Differences between choosing a 105mm or 97mm crank? Will a 105mm crank cause any issues? Or would everything still be compatible?
|
|
|
Post by tzsteve on Oct 9, 2019 15:23:57 GMT
105 rod, you will need to pack the barrel at the bottom by 8mm this will allow the pack piece to be blended rather than just blending the case ( this is the easy way to blend the transfers ) the cylinder cowling becomes a very tight fit so you skip the cowl bolt by the exhaust manifold the port timings are reduced by a degree or so the big end bearing has a slightly easier time raising the red line by about 500 rpm( the maths are a little involved so just trust me on that )
|
|
|
Post by robert on Oct 10, 2019 10:35:06 GMT
this will allow the pack piece to be blended rather than just blending the case ( this is the easy way to blend the transfers ) Do you mean that I need to match the spacer to the cylinder opening and leave the block untouched? (that sounds easier than doing the block) Or matching both spacer and block to cylinder?
|
|
|
Post by tzsteve on Oct 10, 2019 15:26:52 GMT
when you cut your pack piece from a sheet of 8mm aluminium you will need to make everything fit such as studs, spigot and transfers so you can do it all your own way as you like it
its not a hard job the easiest way is to put a sheet of aluminium in a lathe and bore the central hole to size then put this pack piece on the barrel dowel it all so nothing moves as you drill then drill down the stud holes in the barrel so all the holes line up
any machine shop will be able to do this if you don't have access to a lathe and long drill bits
its an easy job
the porting to the case is minimal and a lot easier with little risk of porting the transfers into thin air
ill photo one of my old ones and post it
|
|
|
Post by robert on Oct 11, 2019 5:56:58 GMT
|
|
|
Post by tzsteve on Oct 11, 2019 14:37:59 GMT
first thing is I suspect that you need to open out the case to take the larger crank webs
|
|
|
Post by robert on Oct 11, 2019 15:51:10 GMT
|
|
|
Post by tzsteve on Oct 12, 2019 14:56:03 GMT
C3 is the standard tolerance for the bearing it indicates the clearance on the bearings when new c3 is what you need c2 is tighter …………...……………………………..
I`ve lost track of what you have case wise ETS ET3 etc what fly wheel are you using 19mm taper 0r 20mm
keep posting and you will get a helpful answer. there are a few here who have gone reed block and full circle they will give you a more helpful answer than I can
good news I`m away from the office and the internet for the next 10 days
|
|
|
Post by robert on Oct 12, 2019 15:39:41 GMT
C3 is the standard tolerance for the bearing it indicates the clearance on the bearings when new c3 is what you need c2 is tighter …………...…………………………….. I`ve lost track of what you have case wise ETS ET3 etc what fly wheel are you using 19mm taper 0r 20mm keep posting and you will get a helpful answer. there are a few here who have gone reed block and full circle they will give you a more helpful answer than I can good news I`m away from the office and the internet for the next 10 days Thanks! Never seen a C2 mark only unmarked bearing below C3. Cases is from a 1968 primavera with 19mm taper. Replacing almost everything in the engine. Happy holidays
|
|
|
Post by robert on Oct 14, 2019 7:27:51 GMT
|
|
|
Post by robert on Oct 16, 2019 7:49:33 GMT
Read a lot about this in other threads and it seems like there is no full circle crank with the thicker cone that fits without milling. - So how much needs to be milled on both clutch side and flywheel side.?
And I also realized I need to get the surface flatted down on the block where the cylinder foot is. - How much needs to be removed here?
If I cant find a place that does this for me my last option is the use a rotary crank. Is that ok to use together with the direct parmakit?
thanks!
|
|
|
Post by tzsteve on Oct 23, 2019 16:33:30 GMT
re the gasket face machining. many just take a mm off the face this makes the gasket face wide enough to blend and seal the transfers I had my case welded at the transfers then I had the gasket face levelled the cost was about £20 each side for the welding and another £25 for the milling on the gasket face while the gasket face was being milled he also opened out the spigot hole in the case to take my quatrinni cylinder it is possible to do the blending without welding the case but its much easier to blend with the welding done as there is no chance of porting through the case my welding and machining was done by j Wilson engineering in widnes Merseyside WA8 3RQ as he does a bit of kart racing he has a good idea of what you want. the only problem was that he puts the low profit jobs at the back of the queue so it can take a few weeks to get the engine back but the work is spot on and I think his prices are good I hope this photo makes it all clear a problem with some of the newer kits with mega transfers is that the cylinder will not fit on the case unless you remove the circular bit of the case that is on the fly side. also many of the newer big transfer kits will not allow a standard flywheel to be used as the flywheel fouls on the cylinder one reason why many are now using the vespatronic type ignition kits I bought a VMC kit from avotechnica.com
|
|
|
Post by robert on Oct 24, 2019 6:59:14 GMT
|
|