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Post by Juan on Apr 8, 2018 19:50:14 GMT
Anyone tried these yet?
Reason I'm asking is a mate of mine is building a 100 Sport for a friend of his. I have to say on paper it looks impressive and pretty cheap all told with the CNC wheel.
I've pointed him towards the version he needs but as said never seen one beyond photo's etc.
Certainly I'd be interested for a future project should the quality be good and they get near the promo bollocks.
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Post by me on Apr 18, 2018 11:00:16 GMT
I would have thought they will be good - Ive not seen them in the flesh but i'm with you for the price it must be a good option.
I'm not too sure why they went with a static and variable - there not going to sell many static. Variable ignition is a standard on all modern day bikes so why put the effort into producing a static version.
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Post by boreham on Jun 28, 2019 11:54:46 GMT
Just resurrecting this thread as i just received and fitted the variable kit (ETS crank) Firstly the kit is very well engineered, after fitting multiple kits on different scoots over the years from Vespatronic, Parma, and the rest, this is very well constructed. The stator with the multiple coils and baseplate look as they will have a good power/voltage delivery plus importantly they fit! Secondly it comes with super clear instructions that make total sense if you were a novice, lastly everything goes together effortlessly!! the wiring is all correctly colour coded and pre plugged so it took under 10 minutes to totally fit, the only 2 x fittings required are the connectors to patch in the original loom. True plug and play plus the preset curve looks to be able to manage most medium tuned setups.
Highly recommended and currently around £90 less than the usual suspects direct from SIP, i paid £270 for the large taper with variable coil. Cheers
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Post by Jimmy D on May 11, 2020 22:01:31 GMT
Just got round to fitting mine - I can't find anywhere what to set the ignition timing to.
It's a variable ignition and right now, based on lining UK the base plate with the mark on the casings, I'm calculating a 23 Degree advance... not sure if that's too much??
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Post by boreham on May 12, 2020 6:20:56 GMT
The system retards around 7 degrees so at full throttle you will be quite low at 16 degrees, depends on what cylinder your using, the spec for my M1 was 24 degrees at 1500 revs so retards to 17 degrees at full revs.
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Post by Jimmy D on May 12, 2020 18:21:19 GMT
The system retards around 7 degrees so at full throttle you will be quite low at 16 degrees, depends on what cylinder your using, the spec for my M1 was 24 degrees at 1500 revs so retards to 17 degrees at full revs. Thanks, I finally worked it out from the graphic in the manual - 16 is correct for the Polini 130 and it says at idle that's about -7 so 16+7 is 23. Meaning the mark on my casings is actually accurate, I think....!
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zigas
Automatica
Posts: 1
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Post by zigas on Mar 31, 2021 15:23:50 GMT
The system retards around 7 degrees so at full throttle you will be quite low at 16 degrees, depends on what cylinder your using, the spec for my M1 was 24 degrees at 1500 revs so retards to 17 degrees at full revs. Thanks, I finally worked it out from the graphic in the manual - 16 is correct for the Polini 130 and it says at idle that's about -7 so 16+7 is 23. Meaning the mark on my casings is actually accurate, I think....! Good Evening, Do you finally have it at 16 degrees for the polini? Have you changed any jet in the carburetor for better combustion? Thanks
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