Post by tzsteve on Nov 18, 2015 15:47:21 GMT
So the studs arived about £22 not as bad as i thought, these are 152mm
long, 12mm longer than standard. the quality is nice, they look like
either polished silver steel or an untreated high alloy steel they also
have a couple of flats machined into the sides of the studs which helps
when screwing them into the case.
these studs are a little wider in the mid part of the studs than the
standard veaspa studs. so i needed to drill the barrel stud holes to 7.5mm.
check the squish;
the best way and easiest way to check this is with a bit of solder as shown
here by many others.
so get the topend on and check the squish. Quatrinni say the squish needs
to be 0.9mm so no gaskets nip up the cylinder nuts and rock the crank to
and fro a couple of times then take the head off to see what the solder
has been squashed down to.
it came out at 0.7mm thick so if i use a piece of 0.15mm gasket paper each
side of my packer at the barrel base i will have a squish of 1.0mm
even though quatrinni say 0.9mm i have always tried to get as close to
1.0mm as i can so i`m happy with that.
out comes the loctite 510 as recomended by Quatrinni then torque the head
down about 13NM Quatrinni recomend about 12NM. 13-14 is good enough
for me.
untill recently i have always used loctite 270 (nutloc) for the cylinder
head but as this head has a recessed lip that sits in the barrel i am
using the 510 as i think that will be easier to clean off at any later
rebuilds/repairs. otherwise i would still use the nutloc as nutloc has
never let me down as a cylinder head gasket.
fit the cowelings, as the barrel has been raised by 8mm with a packer
the barrel cowel no longer fits and is about 12mm too short on the wheel
side, also this cowel is plastic so if the head gets over 250ish centigrade
i will probably find the fins melt into the cowel (we`ll see what happens).
can anybody tell me how much space there is under a T5 cowel please? are
they much taller?
engines now in the frame but as the parmakit manifold sits in a different
position to my old one it was out with the wizzer to enlarge the hole in
the frame a few mm. so a new cv gater to fill the hole as the other one
was cut down a bit and is now too small for the hole in my frame
(thats life).
the next few jobs are all quite simple ones;
connect the electrics (3 phase and at least 100W of power for lights etc)
replace a few cables, etc etc etc
and hope it wants to run.
if it wont fire up it will be down to the ignition and that will mean
a rethink about the stator
...
i still haven`t got the ignition timed yet but it looks like it`s between
20 and 35 BTDC so that`s another job for "as and when" along with jetting
the carb. anyone got a rough idea of the jetting for a 34mm amal with a
franz??
this is what i use to help me find T.D.C. on an assembled engine.
sorry my mistaake the nut and boltare M8 not M6
it`s just an old plug with a nut welded to it then a bolt and locknut is
inserted. to use it i fit it in place of the plug and screw the bolt in a
few mm, tighten the lock nut, then rock the piston near the top of the
stroke i find two points either side of T.D.C. where the piston stops
then devide this up to find T.D.C.
i did a little work on the transfers a while ago, so to see what
differance my little bit has made here are three gaskets one on top of the
other. the quatrinni barrel has a lip on the transfers so that if you do
not want to go the welding and milling route with the case the barrel can
still be used but i think that the welding etc will make for more power
over the entire rev range. so i removed the lip at the bottom of the
transfers
if anybody needs two M1-GTR gaskets for the cost of the postage they can
have them but one has a bit of blue marker on it.
long, 12mm longer than standard. the quality is nice, they look like
either polished silver steel or an untreated high alloy steel they also
have a couple of flats machined into the sides of the studs which helps
when screwing them into the case.
these studs are a little wider in the mid part of the studs than the
standard veaspa studs. so i needed to drill the barrel stud holes to 7.5mm.
check the squish;
the best way and easiest way to check this is with a bit of solder as shown
here by many others.
so get the topend on and check the squish. Quatrinni say the squish needs
to be 0.9mm so no gaskets nip up the cylinder nuts and rock the crank to
and fro a couple of times then take the head off to see what the solder
has been squashed down to.
it came out at 0.7mm thick so if i use a piece of 0.15mm gasket paper each
side of my packer at the barrel base i will have a squish of 1.0mm
even though quatrinni say 0.9mm i have always tried to get as close to
1.0mm as i can so i`m happy with that.
out comes the loctite 510 as recomended by Quatrinni then torque the head
down about 13NM Quatrinni recomend about 12NM. 13-14 is good enough
for me.
untill recently i have always used loctite 270 (nutloc) for the cylinder
head but as this head has a recessed lip that sits in the barrel i am
using the 510 as i think that will be easier to clean off at any later
rebuilds/repairs. otherwise i would still use the nutloc as nutloc has
never let me down as a cylinder head gasket.
fit the cowelings, as the barrel has been raised by 8mm with a packer
the barrel cowel no longer fits and is about 12mm too short on the wheel
side, also this cowel is plastic so if the head gets over 250ish centigrade
i will probably find the fins melt into the cowel (we`ll see what happens).
can anybody tell me how much space there is under a T5 cowel please? are
they much taller?
engines now in the frame but as the parmakit manifold sits in a different
position to my old one it was out with the wizzer to enlarge the hole in
the frame a few mm. so a new cv gater to fill the hole as the other one
was cut down a bit and is now too small for the hole in my frame
(thats life).
the next few jobs are all quite simple ones;
connect the electrics (3 phase and at least 100W of power for lights etc)
replace a few cables, etc etc etc
and hope it wants to run.
if it wont fire up it will be down to the ignition and that will mean
a rethink about the stator
...
i still haven`t got the ignition timed yet but it looks like it`s between
20 and 35 BTDC so that`s another job for "as and when" along with jetting
the carb. anyone got a rough idea of the jetting for a 34mm amal with a
franz??
this is what i use to help me find T.D.C. on an assembled engine.
sorry my mistaake the nut and boltare M8 not M6
it`s just an old plug with a nut welded to it then a bolt and locknut is
inserted. to use it i fit it in place of the plug and screw the bolt in a
few mm, tighten the lock nut, then rock the piston near the top of the
stroke i find two points either side of T.D.C. where the piston stops
then devide this up to find T.D.C.
i did a little work on the transfers a while ago, so to see what
differance my little bit has made here are three gaskets one on top of the
other. the quatrinni barrel has a lip on the transfers so that if you do
not want to go the welding and milling route with the case the barrel can
still be used but i think that the welding etc will make for more power
over the entire rev range. so i removed the lip at the bottom of the
transfers
if anybody needs two M1-GTR gaskets for the cost of the postage they can
have them but one has a bit of blue marker on it.