i got hold of a DRT gear sellector not cheap but the old one was
getting a bit worn and starting to jump out of gear, great fun
fitting that, i had a few goes standing at the kitchen worktop then
remembered that this is a job best done sitting in a comfey chair.
the technique is put a rag over your lap to catch the balls as they
spring out on the first few attempts. push the selector over the
axle, tilt the selector to a slight angle, drop one 7MM ball into the
spring hole, drop the spring in, hold the sping down with a suitable
screwdriver, push the selector along the axle till it covers 1mm of
the spring, then use the said screwdriver to push the second ball
into the hole while you wiggle the selector about. half a dozen goes,
easy.
just noticed another small feature of the falc half case, it has been
machined so as to only accept a gear cluster with a very short 4th
and a standard cluster can not be fitted unless you take a wizzer to
the case there is just not enough clearence to allow the cluster to
flip in.
this is the falc half
a standard case shows what has not been machined.
i think this is so that if you are fitting one of the very long stroke
cranks to a falc case you will be able to open the recess for the crank
without cutting into thin air at the space for the cluster. as i
understand it the long stroke engines tend to have very high primaries
and use the very short 4th for a few reasons.
so my case after a couple of minutes with the wizzer. then its back into
the bucket of petrol/diesel/parafin to remove the swarf.
most of the engine internals are now fitted so onto the clutch. i have
seen a few pics of the clutch being built up inside the case so i had a go
at making a spacer that would allow me to do the same.
woodruf key and clutch spider fitted, and the center nut in place but
the tab washer is still not fitted.
then put a clutch extractor in place but with a long M8 bolt in the center.
the nut you can see just locks the bolt to the extractor.
drop the spring and bottom plate in.
then use the spacer to compress the spring and top plate so that the
clutch can be assembled.
the spacer and extractor are removed and the tab washer is fitted and the
nut refitted and torqued etc. this was much easier than fighting to
get the clutch in to the case as a ready assembled unit
the reason you can see two spacers was that the bolt i used was a bit on
the long side so i dropped part of my old clutch compressor on top of my
first spacer just to take up some slack. the spacer that does the work
just sits over the clutch extractor and presses against the top plate.
the sizes are not that critical and i`m sure most here could work out
some dimensions for themselves if they wanted to get one machined up by
a mate.
the crank has now had the thread removed and been tapped to take an
internal M8 bolt.
when fitting the crank i used a 0.5mm bearing shim on the drive side of
the crank and by pushing the mag oil seal all the way in plus 1mm i
managed to get the seal sitting fully on the crank i managed to get a
double lipped seal with a garter spring from simply bearings for about
£2. but i did get a few other types just in case i had problems. the most
expansive seal was the drive side one i think that was about £7 but thats
life.
most of the engine work is now done. what did i forget to order?
4 extra long cylinder studs (150mm). as my pocket money is now spent i
will need to wait a couple of weeks before i can order them i think they
are about £10 each.
i think the engine is starting to look a bit sexy. super light flywheel,
3 phase stator, electronic ign, nice ransfers and a very phallic manifold.
other jobs that need doing are making a sleave to adapt the 34mm amal so
that it will fit a rubber for the dellie manifold.
one reason i want to try the amal first is that i already have it sitting
around, if it works it will save me the cost of a new carb. a couple of
really good points going for a dellorto is that they are a lot lighter
than the amals. also all the dellie parts seem to be half the price of
amal parts. another job i`ve been putting off for technical reasons is
binning the screws that hold the Honda stator to the backplate this will
be done after i have timed the engine i have already worked out how to do
this and it`s basicaly just copying the Honda fixing method
i still need to look at making a fast action throtle that will fit inside
a standard headset (who uses a lambretta job? and what`s involved please)
so the job is still a work in progress. but i think it`s getting there,
atlast.
a couple of questions;
the DRT info says use 80W90 oil has anyone had problems using such heavy
oils?
am i right in thinking that the falc cranks use a 6204 bearing on the
driveside aswell as an NU2205 on the flyside?
and a BIG, BIG THANKS dave for the clutch springs