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Post by db971 on Oct 29, 2013 22:23:00 GMT
Now got the drt crank rv 53mm/105mm and franz pipe. Just confirming the following: 1. Clearance for the crank in the flywheel side of the casing - 0.5mm either side 1mm total. 2. Machine 1.5mm off the cylinder gasket surface on the casings. 3. Open up the intake port on the casing - what width should be left? Thanks D That's the one, yes. You do remember the bit about machining the flywheel side of the casings, and about machining the gasket surface, do you? Just to confirm I am looking to skim 1.00 mm off the casings at the cylinder gasket area? I will get the flywheel side machined out when the crank arrives, but I am looking for 0.5 mm clearance on either side? I will mark up the exhaust port and post a pic before I start to adjust with sandpaper drum (any pointer on grit of sandpaper drum for roughing out and final polish) Do I increase the outer diameter of the exhaust port from the current size (28.32mm) to 32mm, to marry up with the Franz pipe? Thanks again D
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Post by jonnysnatchsniffer on Oct 30, 2013 16:21:26 GMT
i left around .5mm to .8mm it was scary and i had a little slip, i finished of using a handfile as i didnt fancy a dremmel in there
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Post by amazombi on Oct 30, 2013 17:12:21 GMT
Do I increase the outer diameter of the exhaust port from the current size (28.32mm) to 32mm, to marry up with the Franz pipe? Thanks again D [/quote] Leave an edge at the top of outer diameter. It should look like a circle with a flat top.
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Post by db971 on Nov 7, 2013 20:28:32 GMT
Heading the the local machine shop tomorrow and wanted to check my sizes before removing material. Open up aperture for DRT crank Milling gasket surface - can I remove too much here? Air intake outer surface - leaving 0.8mm of material on either side Appreciate any comments
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Post by jeanshorts on Nov 7, 2013 22:26:52 GMT
Liquid metal the area indicated level, also the corresponding depression behind the other side of the intake. A much larger area. The intake is matched to the manifold. WARNING! Taking the rotary pad out to far on the side nearest the flywheel is possible! I just assembled mine and had left 1-1.5 on that side. Lo and behold the larga tuniga does not cover the entire pad in that dimension. The pad is maybe .5 out beyond the web there. If I was to do it again I' d shoot for 1.5-2 on that edge.
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Post by jeanshorts on Nov 8, 2013 5:44:27 GMT
I think the directions for the evo kit have you remove the top of the fly wheel housing too. And massive filling for the transfers. Also unless I'm mistaken, the evo kit is based on a 97mm rod, so in addition to making up the 1.5mm of extra travel for the stroke you have to raise the barrel 8mm for the longer rod too, plus what ever you need to do to get the timings right. Instructions and picture here uk.catalogo.polini.it/dep/PI443.pdfYou've picked an ambitious project for sure.
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Post by db971 on Nov 8, 2013 18:54:55 GMT
Thanks for the info jeanshorts. Decided to hold off going to the engineer shop today. Read through the pdf link. Hopefully someone can advise if I need to remove/fillet any others areas on the casings, over and above what I mentioned in my message above re the casing gasket surface, intake port and the crank aperture on the flywheel side ( do I require a chamfer/ lead in for the new crank)? I now now I need to remove the top of the flywheel housing.
Am I looking at a packer of 8-10mm?
Re 'You've picked an ambitious project for sure.' I appreciate the guidance and help I will receive from the guys on here :-)
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Post by jeanshorts on Nov 8, 2013 20:14:19 GMT
I haven't laid hands on the evo kit, however I went with a 10mm packer on the cast iron kit. So if you take 1.5 off the case plus 1mm extra up stroke plus 8mm longer rod= 10.5 you need to add back in. A 10 packer with the fat sip gaskets on either side does that. Not sure what that does to your transfers though. I flu d the sip dummy bearings very usefull as well as a degree wheel and a dial gauge . The 10 packer might get you around removing the fly housi g and filli g the ports by transitioning the ports in the packer. You'd have e to mock it up a d see
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Post by jeanshorts on Nov 8, 2013 20:57:42 GMT
Also I expect Polini accounted for the filleting of the base area In the height of the cylinder. With a 10mm packer you can always shave it down when you get it a figured out.
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Post by db971 on Nov 8, 2013 23:18:17 GMT
Thanks again jeanshorts. Had a few sherbets tonight so excuse my handy work. Do I need to remove the red area that I have highlighted on the casings for a rotary valve?
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Post by jonnysnatchsniffer on Nov 9, 2013 12:51:04 GMT
yeah i would
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Post by db971 on Dec 16, 2013 19:43:19 GMT
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Post by db971 on Dec 17, 2013 22:10:21 GMT
Appreciate any comms on the above - thanks
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Post by ttscshaggy on Dec 18, 2013 2:35:08 GMT
Seeing as you have a tenuta larga crank you can widen the rotary pad more
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Post by jeanshorts on Dec 18, 2013 3:10:25 GMT
If you have the dummy bearing you could install the crank and check your limit. I suggest being conservative on the fly side of that rotary pad, but it looks like that inlet could be opened up much more and with much straighter tunnel.
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Post by jeanshorts on Dec 18, 2013 3:13:32 GMT
And you may need to make room for the big end at the mouth and outer edge of the rotary. Better mock it up.
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Post by db971 on Dec 18, 2013 12:15:35 GMT
Thanks Jeanshort will look at buying the dummy bearing. As you say this will determine how far I can go, thereafter I can straighten up the internal walls in the tunnel. Will mock/mark it up and post pics before I remove anymore :-)
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Post by jonnysnatchsniffer on Dec 20, 2013 22:14:38 GMT
you can measure the web and take out shitloads more of the pad, on the left as you look at it you can get it flush with the case and on the right if your brave enough you can leave about .8mm, .5mm if you have enough web or like me just done it anyway, it will make quite a bit of difference getting it maxed out, i think i went a bit too far in places and didnt think it would be ok but it ticks over sweet as. as you have the small pad the more area the merrier
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Post by db971 on Feb 2, 2014 19:16:10 GMT
Got the dummy bearing and being in the hut for a wee while this afternoon. Appreciate any comms on whether I can remove more material ( I guess I could remove more on clutch side of the intake). Intake manifold Intake manifold with crank in situ Intake web side Intake web side with crank in situ Intake web side with crank in situ
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Post by jonnysnatchsniffer on Feb 2, 2014 20:37:16 GMT
you can take more out of the inlet pad at the bottom and top so its more like the right hand side, and also if you measure the crankweb in situ and scribe where it is on the drive side im sure you will be able to remove more material from there.
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