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Post by hank on Apr 12, 2008 16:29:43 GMT
  options? |
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Post by Juan on Apr 12, 2008 16:57:03 GMT
I'm a bit more concerned about the hairline crack in the crank area mate.  |
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Post by hank on Apr 12, 2008 17:08:34 GMT
I'm a bit more concerned about the hairline crack in the crank area mate. no, theres just two scratches, one with some dirt in on that photo, no cracks  |
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Post by jonnysnatchsniffer on Apr 13, 2008 8:41:02 GMT
parma kit  |
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Post by adspeed on Apr 13, 2008 8:55:08 GMT
If the pad won't seal then go for a barrel with direct reed inlet or reed into the casings. Lots of options out there now, time for a Hank Monster me thinks. |
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Post by hank on Apr 13, 2008 10:15:03 GMT
i thought i'd have to go malossi cylinder reed to solve it. doesnt the pad damage matter if you reed into the casings?
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Post by Juan on Apr 13, 2008 11:19:07 GMT
No mate, the reeds open and close the inlet instead of the pad and crank.
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Post by adspeed on Apr 13, 2008 13:56:31 GMT
Pad removed and inlet flowed.  Ya don't have to go as extreme but to get the full benefits..... Worb 5 do the cranks with modded webs for reed on the casings..... |
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Post by tony on Apr 13, 2008 14:13:59 GMT
thats not that damaged.. run em a lot worse than that.. a little bit of dev con..and sorted.
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Post by hank on Apr 13, 2008 14:36:51 GMT
if i leave the pad as it is and use a normal cut crank with polini reed, will that have any less power than an undamaged pad with normal rotary induction? or should i remove the pad, maybe even get a full circle crank  ad: yes a hank monster would be nice but M1/Parma out of my budget, so it'll have to be the grand old lady of tuning, Mrs Polini or even her slightly racier sister, Mrs Malossi ;D |
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Post by Juan on Apr 13, 2008 15:15:22 GMT
I'd agree with Tony, try repairing the pad with JB Weld/Devcon before you start thinking about anything else.
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