Porting the casings

[smallyshane]

HI all,

I know I need to match the transfers on my new motor, but the question is, do you think that it is worth welding a bit extra material to them to make the transfers a bit deeper or not, and how much extra Hp do you think could be potentially gained from doing this?

Also, Do I need to enlarge the inlet at all? seems pointless making the transfers massive when you still have a tiny little inlet.. What kind of work would you do to this (if any) bearing in mind that I will be using the rotary type kit and so need the sealing pad (but how much of it)..

Cheers
Shane

[willspeed]

what kit are you running ?

[smallyshane]

Sorry mate, will be an M1 with rotary Mazz crank.

[willspeed]

yes, will improve performance quite alot if you match the kit, and will be worth it matching the inlet port.

sure more people will reply to this post and give you more info onhow to do it.

[hank]

this is Ad's domain really shane! ask him, he's the porting expert.

has ozzy ported his engine for a M1? i'm sure theres some pictures somewhere on this site of an engine prepared for a M1 kit. can't remember which thread though.

** jim's pk project thread has some nice porting without extra metal, Ozzy's project thread has some bigger porting with extra metal**

[Juan]

Match the outer face to your manifold and blend into the rotary pad. Don't widen it but you should lengthen it, not sure in what direction or by how much though.

As for the tranfers I've never seen the need for adding extra metal but then again I've never had a "proper" kit. Ad and Unreliable seem pretty happy with the performance from their kits with no added material but it's upto you.Can't hurt I suppose.

[smallyshane]

Cheers for that, Ad, please can you fill in the gaps mate?? I have followed the link to Curares website which shows the transfer work, but I can find nothing on the inlet work needed... Also, have the casings on that site had extra meat added or not as its not too clear..

[unreliablesc]

this is my m1 cases, I came back the next day and did the final smoothing, you can just see the black line, that's how much you have to play with on std. cases. you could probably go a bit deeper, but I didn't fancy any holes.

[ozzy]

and with extra weld;

[adspeed]

Shane,

Don't forget any work to the pad alters the inlet timings. Which I don't think will be a problem as the Maz cranks are fairly reserved, but this work has to be in conjuction with the crank to get the correct inlet times.

The pad still needs to seal, which by the way ought to be checked prior to doing all the work......If it don't seal you could then reed it, now theres a thing....reed the bitch. Sorry Shane gettin carried away again....... ;D

I use some JB weld or Devcon on the back of the inlet. When you open it up you will break through this area which can just be seen on this pic.....



Its not easy to see but its the grey patch inside the port....

[smallyshane]

They are lookin good them gents.. So what do you think the difference between the welded casings and the non welded casings hp wise would be?? I must say though, I didn't think you could go quite as far as that without weld....

Also, have you got these beasts up ad running yet?? whats it like?? have you left any power rangers with a disturbed look on their faces?

Ad, I have already bought the rotary crank, and the pad looks ok (not opeed it up yet though but all looks good) but what would be he benefits of sticking a reed ont the casings??? The way I understood it was that you are introducing another area of low pressure by the increase in size from the back of the carb to the actuall reed block before the petals, and then it has to travel right through the crank casing to the top of the barrel.. It just seems like I would be introducing more restrictions... (please be gentle as I am only just starting to get my head around it all)

;D

[adspeed]

Shane I reckon not to weld and a dab of JB say on the flywheel side incase you break through.

Don't worry about the reed Ya won't need it.

[unreliablesc]

Apr 10, 2008 22:24:09 GMT smallyshane said:

Also, have you got these beasts up ad running yet?? whats it like?? have you left any power rangers with a disturbed look on their faces?

I think mine is starting to get broken in...
I get nice little wobble in 3rd when the power kicks in if I'm not sitting on the very tip of the seat to keep the wheel down... ;D

short 4th or some shorter DRT cogs for the primary next.

[smallyshane]

Thats what I'm talkin about ;D ;D ;D

Do you think there is aneed to go for a DRT/Zirri setup on the gearbox, or are you just wanting the front end off the floor in all gears

I think That I have resigned to the fact that I am just not gonna get time to doo all the work on mine due to work and home commitments, and the fact that I have nowhere to do it really and have taken it to a mate who is also quite well known for tunning scaff poles round here.... I will be doing some of the work on it, but have left the stripping the motor down and sorting the blasting out to him for the mo, so as not to upset the wife, but get the project moving now I have most of the bits

YOu will have to keep me posted on the running in too mate, how long/far have you run it so far and how long do you intend to? My instructions say 100miles..

[unreliablesc]

Apr 15, 2008 21:21:54 GMT smallyshane said:

Thats what I'm talkin about ;D ;D ;D

Do you think there is aneed to go for a DRT/Zirri setup on the gearbox, or are you just wanting the front end off the floor in all gears


YOu will have to keep me posted on the running in too mate, how long/far have you run it so far and how long do you intend to? My instructions say 100miles..

It doesn't pull 4th, It's faster in 3rd. that's with 2.56 primaries and you standard MotoVespa T3 box...

re running in, I haven't been keeping track of the miles, but I could "feel it letting go" after about 100-150 miles i guess. Didn't baby it to much, but have been riding allot in heavy traffic so I haven't thrashed it to much either.