Post by Jimmy D on Mar 20, 2013 13:41:46 GMT
Chaps,
You may remember that as a new member to this forum 2 years ago I set off on a voyage of trial and (more often than not) error, doing things like porting cases badly, making holes, getting them welded, warping surfaces, paying loads to get them skimmed, splitting the engine 3-4 times to swap out various bits and so on and so forth. I did it all on my living room floor using my feet to hold the casings steady as I dremeled and covering the carpet in bits of swarf. It all worked in the end and the engine did not explode at any point, but I want to start afresh and use wot I learned to do it properly this time.
The focus for this engine is reliability and enough clout to get about in traffic. I'm not looking to tune it to its maximum tolerance. If I want to race I have my motorbike.
The parts I have are as follows:
NEW PARTS
REUSEABLE PARTS
I'm hoping all this will come together to make a very reliable engine. However, first things first - I'm back to the start with porting etc.
So my questions to you are:
1) Do you agree all the above would make a tidy engine?
2) Should I add material to the casings and risk warping them or just go really shallow with the dremel when opening up the ports and avoid going through? I'm aware that later casings aren't as thick/strong/meaty/well cast as old V casings.
3) If I do add material, is there a way to avoid warping (ie. bolt the barrel in place first) so that I don't have to get things skimmed? The gasket faces look freshly skimmed as the casings are unused, so it'd be a shame to have to pay to have it done again.
4) With rotary induction, does pad size matter? Is there any benefit to extending the length of the opening (currently about 25mm out of the 42mm pad long overall)
5) Will the Newfren clutch (ie. standard smallie clutch) work with the XL2 cover and push plate without me shimming the clutch cover?
6) I need to get a V range manifold to work with these 3-stud casings, as this engine is for my V90 frame. Do I create a custom manifold or do I drill and tap a new hole to convert the casings themselves to 2-stud?
7) If you were me, would you adapt/tune the Polini top end? How?
8) With longevity in mind, is it worth drilling out and inserting the stronger bushing (available from SIP) into the gear change hole before I put that bit together?
9) Is there any reason to shim the xmas tree (and kickstart) to achieve more clutch separation/avoid drag?
10) Anything else you'd do while you had it on the bench?
As always, I appreciate your time in answering these!
Cheers
Jimmy
You may remember that as a new member to this forum 2 years ago I set off on a voyage of trial and (more often than not) error, doing things like porting cases badly, making holes, getting them welded, warping surfaces, paying loads to get them skimmed, splitting the engine 3-4 times to swap out various bits and so on and so forth. I did it all on my living room floor using my feet to hold the casings steady as I dremeled and covering the carpet in bits of swarf. It all worked in the end and the engine did not explode at any point, but I want to start afresh and use wot I learned to do it properly this time.
The focus for this engine is reliability and enough clout to get about in traffic. I'm not looking to tune it to its maximum tolerance. If I want to race I have my motorbike.
The parts I have are as follows:
NEW PARTS
NOS shiny, unstamped, untouched 80s casings with crank needle bearing, 2-cable gear pulley (not included) and long sealing pad (PK XL 50, possibly)
New FAG and TORRINGTON bearings (and seals)
DRT Runner xmas tree
27/69 Surflex straight cut primaries (rivets welded)
Grand Sport piston rings
V range 24mm manifold
One of Jim's engine stands to put it together in!
New FAG and TORRINGTON bearings (and seals)
DRT Runner xmas tree
27/69 Surflex straight cut primaries (rivets welded)
Grand Sport piston rings
V range 24mm manifold
One of Jim's engine stands to put it together in!
REUSEABLE PARTS
XL2 clutch cover and pressure plate
Newfren 24-spring, 3 plate clutch
Original Piaggio PK gears
Piaggio cruciform (2-3000 miles old)
Piaggio layshaft
Polini 130 barrel
Polini 130 head (new 2011 non-warping version)
Polini 130 piston
MEC EUR ETS crank
PK stator and flywheel
Delly 24mm PHBL
Gear change assembly
New chrome PM40 exhaust
Newfren 24-spring, 3 plate clutch
Original Piaggio PK gears
Piaggio cruciform (2-3000 miles old)
Piaggio layshaft
Polini 130 barrel
Polini 130 head (new 2011 non-warping version)
Polini 130 piston
MEC EUR ETS crank
PK stator and flywheel
Delly 24mm PHBL
Gear change assembly
New chrome PM40 exhaust
I'm hoping all this will come together to make a very reliable engine. However, first things first - I'm back to the start with porting etc.
So my questions to you are:
1) Do you agree all the above would make a tidy engine?
2) Should I add material to the casings and risk warping them or just go really shallow with the dremel when opening up the ports and avoid going through? I'm aware that later casings aren't as thick/strong/meaty/well cast as old V casings.
3) If I do add material, is there a way to avoid warping (ie. bolt the barrel in place first) so that I don't have to get things skimmed? The gasket faces look freshly skimmed as the casings are unused, so it'd be a shame to have to pay to have it done again.
4) With rotary induction, does pad size matter? Is there any benefit to extending the length of the opening (currently about 25mm out of the 42mm pad long overall)
5) Will the Newfren clutch (ie. standard smallie clutch) work with the XL2 cover and push plate without me shimming the clutch cover?
6) I need to get a V range manifold to work with these 3-stud casings, as this engine is for my V90 frame. Do I create a custom manifold or do I drill and tap a new hole to convert the casings themselves to 2-stud?
7) If you were me, would you adapt/tune the Polini top end? How?
8) With longevity in mind, is it worth drilling out and inserting the stronger bushing (available from SIP) into the gear change hole before I put that bit together?
9) Is there any reason to shim the xmas tree (and kickstart) to achieve more clutch separation/avoid drag?
10) Anything else you'd do while you had it on the bench?
As always, I appreciate your time in answering these!
Cheers
Jimmy
