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Post by wilhets on Apr 7, 2021 15:23:04 GMT
im curious about no one re-magnetizing electronic flywheels. surely they are all magnetised after assembly. so what`s the problem@ id really like to know what the problem is come on input from the panel on this please
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Post by wilhets on Apr 7, 2021 15:28:35 GMT
(soz, clicked post too soon) Apparently, it's fairly easy to find someone to remagnetize lammy ones, but the configuration of magnets is different in vespa ones.
I think Allstyles do lammy ones, but the guy there said that scooterworks in London was the only place he knew of that remagnetize vespa flywheels. Unfortunately, scooterworks don't seem to be going anymore (which is a shame because I always found them really helpful).
Anyway, that's about as much as I've found out so far.
I've just ordered a flywheel and electrics kit from India. I'll let you know how that goes. Cheers,
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Post by tzsteve on Apr 8, 2021 17:02:50 GMT
be ready to pay the duty plus the rip of handling charge for DPD i fell for that once
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Post by wilhets on May 2, 2021 10:19:25 GMT
Ok, so bit of an update. Sorry it's a bit of a long one, but I thought it might be useful for anyone who has similar problems in future.
The ebay seller cancelled the order for the flywheel from India (he said he had a bad batch), so i ordered one from the UK for a few quid more.
Whilst waiting for it to turn up, I had a look at the carb inlet collar to see if the felt washer was in there. (NB - I had been needing to use quite a lot of choke to get it to run right, so needed to check there was no air leek here). The felt washer was missing, so I ordered one and fitted it.
Gave it a run to see if that made it run any better, but there was no discernable difference.
Received the new flywheel (a PK one). The magnets were definitely a lot stronger than the original one I had in there.
Fitted it, after a bit of fettling (thanks H for the tips): - needed to unscrew the centre and turn it so that the keyway was at 3 o'clock from the pick up trigger (the s); - replaced the 16mm m6 screws with shorter 14mm m6 button head Allen screws (the longer ones were fouling the stator) ; - had to raise the flywheel cover with washers, to clear the flywheel screws.
I also had to rotate the stator slightly to get the timing right. The keyway was about 15° out compared to the original flywheel. In an earlier post I mentioned that I could only rotate the stator to 21° btdc, so it was 3° too advanced. I had to rotate it 12° the other way to compensate.
Tested the spark. It was much better. The spark now jumped a 12mm gap in air, it was only 2mm previously.
Started it, and it started straight away with no choke and ran much better.
I tested the timing with a strobe and the timing is now pretty close to spot on. It's 2—3°out at idle but spot on 18° when I rev it.
Any advice on whether this timing is OK?
Anyway, took it for a spin yesterday and it is running much better now. Runs without choke now once warmed up and pulls nicely up hills, etc. It didn't feel like it was going to die at any stage. So hopefully that has solved the problem.
I'm wondering if the choke was helping to compensate for the weak spark before or the timing being out or if I really did have an air leak. Or maybe some combination of these. 🤔
Thanks everyone for the suggestions and thanks H for the advice.
Hopefully that's it sorted now. Next job is the ETS. 😁
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Post by jbcollier on May 3, 2021 13:19:23 GMT
Excellent, glad it is sorted.
Timing variation probably due to EMF interference.
Felt does not seal the carb to the manifold, it prevents dirty air from the wheel well getting in to the spine area through the bellows collar.
Removing refitting the carb might have sealed up an air leak, hard yo say for sure.
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