which wiring loom

[daveyf]

hi guys

Finally got a day off and some work done on my V90. Need some electrics advice

Which wiring loom do I need for my V90. Have attached a pic of the stator and any hints as to which wire goes where would be great.

Also the flywheel seems to be rubbing on the casing. Do I need to have the groove inside the flywheel machined or some material taken off cases? It says PL170 ducati on the flywheel and it is for a large taper crank.

[movin64]

A few years ago I bought a look from beedspeed that was very good quality. Recently I bought a bgm loom and that was better still. A

[boreham]

I can also vouch for the Beedspeed looms, they use a very good electrician, based on the pick just select the option for the electronic kit as you have an upgraded stator etc..

The pic you have, blue and grey go to the loom in the scooter, they are the power leads for the lights etc...

The red, white and green go to the coil, you should have the PX type based on the wiring, the xtra green also to the coil and is the cut out, the green coming back to the scoot may go to a variety of colours but could be blue based on the loom.

[daveyf]

cheers Dude. I got the beedspeed a few years ago when I rebuilt my 100 sport and it was really good. More trying to work out which one. So its the PX one then? Lets just hope they send the right one, thanks for the instructions on which wires go where

[boreham]

Apr 16, 2020 18:52:00 GMT daveyf said:

cheers Dude. I got the beedspeed a few years ago when I rebuilt my 100 sport and it was really good. More trying to work out which one. So its the PX one then? Lets just hope they send the right one, thanks for the instructions on which wires go where

They list a prim, 90 loom with electronic kit, that way it works with the scoot but has the correct wiring for the stator etc.... if in doubt give them a ring
Alternatively they do a simple patch lead for £8 which retro fits the original loom to the later electronic kit

[nickj]

Flywheel rubbing could be a screw holding the stator? Try a lower profile screw ....

I’ve had lots of hassle with shit flywheels rubbing cases, stator, screws etc

[daveyf]

Hi, more help needed. Making some progress and thanks to Boreham for advice before.

Have got primmy type wiring loom but I may need to add a wire or two. I am looking at the scooter help 125 primmy ET3 wiring diagram.

Stator has Black, Blue, White, Red and 2 green wires (and one green wire running back)

So Red, White and both Green to CDI?

The Loom Has 5 wires running from the junction box

Black: connect to black from stator
Blue: connect to blue from stator
Yellow: this runs to the switch WHAT SHOULD CONNECT TO THIS?
Red: WHAT SHOULD CONNECT TO THIS?
Green: Should this connect to the green coming back from stator plate?

Also should I be connecting a regulator in here somewhere as cant see this on wiring diagram

Thanks for your any advice as I am clueless about electricklety as you can see
Sorry couldn't upload image of the loom it's saying the pic is too big but it's only a pic of the 5 wires

Attachments:

Doc2.pdf (143.5 KB)

[jbcollier]

Stator green, white and red are for the CDi ignition. Green from harness connects to the stator green for the kill switch.

Stator black is ground and should go to the harness black and the chassis.

Stator blue is the only power out.

The harness is a Primavera/ET3 simple harness and has a short to ground brake light circuit. This will not work. You have to convert it to a switched-power brake light circuit. So you need a normally-closed brake light switch and a normally open horn switch.

Check what you have and report back.

[daveyf]

thanks JB

I have been looking at the wiring loom on scooter help. I could not upload the picture. On scooter-help the diagram is in hybrid wiring looms V9A1T wiring with primavera ET3 VMBA 1T motor and this matches the loom i have.

Yes I think I have closed brake / open horn. I have checked the brake switch which is the normally closed type i.e. the button on the switch is released when the brake pedal is depressed thus completing the circuit. When the brake is not in use the switch is compressed and there is no continuity across the connections

My light/horn switch which should be compatible with electronic ignition. The horn is an open switch. IE There is no continuity across the 2 connections until the horn button is pushed.

Looking at the wiring diagram I can see that as you explained

1.) "Stator green, white and red are for the CDi ignition." OK

2. ) "Stator black is ground and should go to the harness black and the chassis." OK

3. ) "Green from harness connects to the stator green for the kill switch." It is the red wire on my wiring loom /harness which connects to the kill switch. So should this connect to the second green wire that you can see in the middle of the photo which comes off the green wire which connects to the CDI? Essentially this is the same as the green wire in the wiring diagram coming from the left of the CDI and connecting to the red of the harness. This would correspond with your advice

4.) "Stator blue is the only power out." OK The blue on my harness connects to the brake pedal and brake light

THE NEXT BIT IS WHERE I AM STUCK

5.) The yellow on my harness /loom connects to rear light

6.) The green on my harness /loom connects to the horn


The problem is for my stator plate to match the wiring diagram there is one wire missing.

If you look at the 3rd wire down on the photo of the stator plate it is a different shade of green so could this also be a power out and link to the yellow or green on the harness?

Whichever way I still seem to be a wire short (if not also a sandwich short of a picnic when it comes to wiring diagrams....)

I dont even know if this makes sense but if you have not lost the will to live by this point your expert opinion would be hugely appreciated thank you

[jbcollier]

Time for some testing. Get a battery to match your scoot: 12v horn and bulbs = 12v battery, 6v = etc. Ground the battery to the chassis and hook up one at a time each of your power wires. Check the circuits out to make sure they work properly. Everything works? No shorts? Excellent. Hook ALL your power wires to the stator's blue wire. Get a matching AC reg either 12v or 6v. Hook that up as well to the blue wire. You should be good to go.

[daveyf]

Thanks very much JB appreciate your advice. Got to fit the engine to the frame and all a million fiddly jobs as well but will report back on progress.

[daveyf]

OK so a million years later ive got the scoot built up, cabled, engine running etc. Following the wiring diagram and advice above. the best I can get is if I only connect the power to the Yellow Wire on the loom I can get rear light, brake light, pilot light, horn but no headlight / main beam. This only works though if I disconnect the green wire from the cut out switch.

Connect power to yellow and to green and blue as well and all kinds of nonsense, lose the rear light, and lights cut out if I use horn etc. I could make a list of each issue with every combination but wanted to know any suggestions? One more thing there is a continuity from green and blue wires on loom to switch

I am using scooterhelp wiring diagram scooterhelp.com/electrics/pages/VMB1T.to.V9A1T.hybrid.html and have added a regulator

[jbcollier]

The wiring diagram you link to shows a short-to-ground brake light which you do not have (as the brake light works fine when just the yellow is hooked up).

Stator:

Black to harness black and to chassis (important).

Red/White/Green to CDi.

Extra green to engine kill (red on the wiring diagram you link to).

Blue is your only power supply. Anything you want powered has to hook to it.

I would go back and test out the harness using a battery. Once you have everything working with a battery then you should be fine powering off the blue wire.

MAKE SURE YOU CHANGE OUT ANY SHORT TO GROUND SWITCHES !!

It's hard to diagnose this sort of thing over the wire.

[daveyf]

Cheers dude will do so. As always your advice most appreciated, very nearly there with the V90 project so sorting the lights pretty much the last thing

[daveyf]

Ok. All power wires connected to blue. Using exact wiring diagram in link above. I’ve got full and dipped headlight, rear light and horn. When I press brake light all lights go off and no brake light (bulb is ok). Also no pilot light and won’t run with green wire for kill switch connected. I am sure I am nearly there but just can’t work our what is wrong.....

[jbcollier]

Let's solve one thing at a time.

What wire colours, and how many of each colour, are hooked up to the brake light switch?

[daveyf]

Appreciate your patience!

One blue from the junction box and one black from junction box. Switch makes the connection when it is open / brake pedal depressed

[jbcollier]

Switch is good, wiring is wrong.

Disconnect the black wire and tuck it out of the way.

Run a wire from the brake light switch to the brake light bulb.

That should sort the brake light,

[daveyf]

Good man yerself!! I’ll do that and report back!!

[daveyf]

Done. I now have lights, horn, brake light. Now properly on the road. Thanks very much