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Post by tzsteve on Jun 27, 2020 11:29:32 GMT
You say you are having gear selector problems, Have you got the correct gear selector for the gear set that you are using ? There are quite a few to choose from and you do need the correct one
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Post by gugne on Jul 7, 2020 8:38:33 GMT
You say you are having gear selector problems, Have you got the correct gear selector for the gear set that you are using ? There are quite a few to choose from and you do need the correct one Yes it was a reinforced VTR one and measures 50.2mm The problems were that it was stiff to select gears but I think that's down to using oversize o-ring on the gear selector shaft as it's slightly better now. The other problem was that in 3rd or 4th an on the throttle it seems to drop out of gear for a split second then back in, as if you were dipping the clutch, but not jumping totally out of gear like I've experienced with a worn selector on another Primmy I had. I've checked my build photos and the gears are in the right way round so I'm hoping the tightness of the selector is affecting it staying in gear and will bed in. My only worry is that the Crimaz easy clutch might be the problem- maybe the pressure plate is touching the clutch cover/plunger at higher speeds and disengaging it for a split second. Anyway, I've adjusted the clutch and gear cables slightly and when I get time I'll take it for a run and see if it's changed anything. I have a feeling I'll be splitting the bastard though.
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Post by tzsteve on Jul 8, 2020 19:08:34 GMT
re the spring; most of the go faster selectors come with a slightly stiffer spring this will soften up in about 500 miles I hope you get it all working as it should, the other stuff I have no experience of.
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Post by gugne on Jul 11, 2020 19:35:19 GMT
Ah... i refitted the original spring. It was working perfectly and there was no new spring with the selector. Out for a test run tomorrow so ill update then.
One other question. After its run in ive read you need to re torque the head bolts. Am i right in thinking i have to drop the engine to do this? Tank off, carb off loosen main bolt and let it hang down then cowl off...or is there an easier way?
Thanks.
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Post by gugne on Jul 12, 2020 9:06:50 GMT
Well just been out for a 90 minute ride. On the plus side the engine is lovely. Massive load of torque right across the rev range and revs up nicely. Cant even see any fault in the carburation. Ran at about 130c going up to 140 on a long uphill.
On the bad side the gears/clutch is still playing up. No problem in 1st or 2nd. 3rd is worst and 4th not as bad. It feels like the clutch is being dipped for a split second then re engaging. Doesn't seem to happen under full load but on a light throttle and when going on the flat or uphill. Doesnt happen over big bumps either. I adjusted the clutch a bit so it engages just as i release the lever but it didnt change anything. Any ideas?
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Post by boreham on Jul 12, 2020 13:50:16 GMT
Hi, re the gear issue, as you state you have the correct ET3 smaller selector, daft question but are you using the correct main shaft, the PK one is different? I had a similar issue on my Polini engine, the selector was sticking on the mainshaft at some locations, if you slid on the gear channels it would effectively lockup, this was an aftermarket selector and some fine emery paper/small file on the edges sorted the odd burrs I used DRT and BGM ones on my recent engines with no issues.
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Post by gugne on Jul 12, 2020 18:15:22 GMT
Its vma1m engine case that had some sort of head kit on it so i cant be sure about the shaft. The previous selector worked fine but i best dig it out of my old parts bin and measure it i think. How would i know the pk shaft? I have photos of the build. Thanks
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Post by gugne on Jul 12, 2020 18:48:07 GMT
Just measured the old selector and its 50.2 so its the same as the new one.
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Post by gugne on Jul 16, 2020 10:38:39 GMT
Just had a thought. I didnt realise there were 3 sizes of selector. 48.8 50.2 and 51.0. If i really needed a 51 instead of the 50.2 i fitted do you think this would cause tge problem?
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Post by gugne on Jul 16, 2020 18:02:59 GMT
Well ive ordered a 51.0mm selector new cables and un upgraded gear selector arm and o ring. Time to open up the bastard and do it all again.
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Post by gugne on Jul 20, 2020 8:12:46 GMT
Took out the engine yesterday and got as far as removing the flywheel and found that my normal flywheel tool didn't work so i've had to order and new flywheel removing tool that fits.Nothing is ever easy ffs!
If I'd had the tool I reckon another 30 mins and I'd have finished. 2.5 hours to remove and strip an engine. That's not too shabby is it?
Anyway, parts and tool arriving tomorrow so more later this week.
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Post by madmax on Jul 21, 2020 7:40:05 GMT
How would i know the pk shaft? I have photos of the build. Thanks The PK shaft has a bigger thread and use the large nut with a separate castellated cover, similar to PX. If the 3d gear is the one that's giving you problems, make sure you fitted it the right way.
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Post by gugne on Jul 21, 2020 10:28:53 GMT
How would i know the pk shaft? I have photos of the build. Thanks The PK shaft has a bigger thread and use the large nut with a separate castellated cover, similar to PX. If the 3d gear is the one that's giving you problems, make sure you fitted it the right way. Here are some photos. No castellated nut cover and 4th is giving me problems too but not as much.
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Post by tzsteve on Jul 21, 2020 11:53:29 GMT
With a new selector of the correct type you should not have problems Have you had a good look at the loose cogs for ware on the inside
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Post by gugne on Jul 23, 2020 10:58:26 GMT
With a new selector of the correct type you should not have problems Have you had a good look at the loose cogs for ware on the inside Yes the edges were square/good. I'd have changed the lot otherwise as I'm a firm believer of "do it right the first time". That way you only open and close the cases once.... unless shit like this happens of course.
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Post by tzsteve on Jul 25, 2020 15:12:01 GMT
no doubt you will find the problem in the end any mates close by who would help if you asked them?
and you have checked the shims to make sure you have the correct free play on the loose gears
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Post by gugne on Jul 27, 2020 7:59:28 GMT
First I fitted the uprated selector arm thing. Massive difference. Here are the selectors and point to the problem: Left is the original. Middle is the replacement Polini. Right is the one that was giving me problems. Who'd have thought 0.8mm would have made such a difference. Shimmed. I think that's within tolerances. Engine is back together and turning the batwing is beautifully light and precise and can be done by hand whereas before it was an utter bastard that needed pliers. Fingers crossed this has cured it. Next are new gear cables and a SIP gear roller.
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Post by gugne on Aug 3, 2020 10:51:35 GMT
Leak test done and engine back in the frame. Started 2nd kick! Yay! New SIP cables and gear roller fitted Lucky it DID change them as cable 1 was fraying and was ready to snap. Just need to connect them and the clutch and rear brake and it'll be time to find out if all the hard work was worth it.
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Post by madmax on Aug 3, 2020 18:42:27 GMT
I hope is sorted now
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Post by gugne on Aug 4, 2020 9:42:16 GMT
I hope is sorted now No idea yet. I have to connect up the gear, clutch and brake cables and then test it. It's the worst job on a smallie and I wasn't up to it on Sunday.
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