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Post by gugne on Dec 20, 2019 9:08:15 GMT
Ok here's my effort. Have I removed enough before I polish it up? Is it worth polishing it? Criticism is welcome. Thanks
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Post by gugne on Dec 21, 2019 9:44:16 GMT
Oy! I know you're all on the piss/hungover but can someone tell me how well/badly I've done please? Also if I need to grind some more? and if so, where? Thanks.
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Post by henri on Dec 21, 2019 10:52:15 GMT
patience my little apprentice ,i resemble that remark above . i take it the green lines is were youve overlayed a gasket an felt tipped the marks , so youve a tiny bit more to do , time to be patient an slow down .rushing now is were mistakes are made . i put studs back into cases an 1 half at a time slip barrel back on ,ensure exhaust is square ,then get a hooked scribe (fishook shaped end) an reach up into transfers an scratch a line were barrel meets cases .this gives you a exact mark to go too , gaskets can need trimming . as for polishing , on road engines i give a quick wizz with a stone just to clean up any tiny tool marks left .for example in your picture left transfers relatively smooth ,the final cut was very light ,on the right youve still been roughing out n toolmarks are pronounced . i rough out to about 1-.5 mm from my lines ,then light cut , not even the full weight of the tool nevermind any muscle ,upto the lines . moving the tool across the face evenly so not to leave any furrows .then a whizz with a small stone to get into all corners an smooth out the port . "is it worth polishing" ? . well thats depending on what engines for . just stick a kit on ,say a polini you go from 5bhp to 7-8 , match it roughly 9-10 . match it perfectly an do some barrel work 12-13 . do a lot more barrel mods an inlets n exhaust ,polish up etc etc 15bhp . difference is 1st jobs a hour ,middle jobs 15 , full bore messing about 45 hours .its the tuning law of "diminishing returns" ,so i'd say if ya building a race/speed record motor were 1/4-1/2 bhp would be crucial hand polish til there like a mirror , 1 of those type of engines is around 100 hours . building a fast road scoot i wouldnt bother ,your work so far is adequate an for a 1st attempt pretty good .H
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Post by gugne on Dec 21, 2019 11:54:01 GMT
Wow, excellent post! Couldn't ask for more. All understood. Thanks Henri. Top bloke!
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Post by gugne on Dec 27, 2019 11:07:52 GMT
I had a quick look yesterday and fitted the head to each half in turn. There isn't much to come off, it's flush for about half of each of the semi-circles and then there's a lip of about half a mil on the rest. I've ordered an engineers angled scribe, as H suggested, to get this bang on. After that I want to smooth it all down a bit so it looks more professional. Do I use those pink stone attachments to do this or another Dremel attachment?
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Post by gugne on Dec 31, 2019 9:47:17 GMT
HENRI! Quick question about fitting the fly side bearing. I have all the instructions from your post on FB and it all makes sense but can you tell me if the bearing should be tight against the side of the crank or should there be a 1mm gap? I haven't fitted it yet I just wanted to check for when I do. Thanks. Happy New Year!
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Post by gugne on Jan 2, 2020 9:41:06 GMT
My engineers scribe arrived so I finished the casings yesterday. They now match perfectly to the head without any lip- Ignore the green marker- they match. I polished them as best I could but the photo doesn't do them justice as they are much smoother in real life. Bearings next. Shouldn't be a problem as I've done quite a few. Only need confirmation on fitting the fly side bearing to the crank- do I leave a gap or get it as flush as possible to the side of the crank web? I remember reading somewhere that there should be a 1mm space but that could have been for a PX. Anyone?
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Post by henri on Jan 2, 2020 9:49:09 GMT
on smallframe cranks theres a shoulder about 1mm high on crank journal ,bearing sits flush upto this ,leaving a approx 1mm gap between bearing n web .on px's theres no shoulder so a spacer is used to get inner race in right place . an any bod tells you its so its easier remove later ignore him ,its so inner race is positioned dead centre in outer race . H
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Post by gugne on Jan 2, 2020 10:11:25 GMT
on smallframe cranks theres a shoulder about 1mm high on crank journal ,bearing sits flush upto this ,leaving a approx 1mm gap between bearing n web .on px's theres no shoulder so a spacer is used to get inner race in right place . an any bod tells you its so its easier remove later ignore him ,its so inner race is positioned dead centre in outer race . H Amazing. Your middle name should be Wikipedia. Thanks yet again Henri. Top bloke!
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Post by gugne on Jan 6, 2020 11:28:52 GMT
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Post by henri on Jan 6, 2020 18:13:18 GMT
me at 12 oclock lunch break . mons 001 by henri briggs, on Flickr . mons 002 by henri briggs, on Flickr . me at 2 oclock when i felt guilty for takin a long lunch "hour" . easy when ya know how eh . right ,few tings . 1 remove the rear kickstart rubber , quadrant sits further back n makes fitting the spring loads easier . 2 the bearings youve used , sealed ? , if so remove outer seal so they get 2 stroke oil lubrication . see ya swapped the black nitrile seal for a blue corteco , nice . over all ,for a 1st build,blend,etc , fucking nailing it so far , keep on , liking this one . will post a piccy of my transfers for ya in morn , H
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Post by gugne on Jan 7, 2020 9:33:15 GMT
Bloody show off! I'm going slow and steady as I've pushed on in the past and had to go back and re-do things: 125 Nuova engine rebuild when I'd closed the cases and someone on here spotted that I'd put the crank oil seal on back to front. AAAARGH! Great tip on the kickstart rubber. That'll save my fvcked hands! Obviously put the rubber on after the quadrant. As for the bearings, the company in Italy (officinatonazzo) that sold me the Pinasco crank recommended the two Pinasco bearings for it. www.officinatonazzo.it/default.asp?l=1&cmd=getProd&cmdID=4863&rr=GoogleMerchant&utm_source=GoogleMerchant&utm_medium=cpc I'm not sure if they're sealed or not. I suppose if I drop some oil onto the face and it goes inside, they aren't sealed. If not which side would I remove? The outside one, as in outside the engine not the the side covered by the oil seal yes? And the bearing on the crank, the side nearest the crank or nearest the casing? Anyway, thanks for the tips, good to know someone is keeping an eye on my work.
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Post by gugne on Jan 7, 2020 10:29:18 GMT
Couple of questions while I remember. 1. Torque settings for the head bolts- any idea? 2. Will my 24 Polini carb and inlet be ok for this kit- I was reading Norrie Kerr's tuning book and it indicated that I should be using a 26 or bigger?
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Post by dazzz on Jan 9, 2020 21:55:46 GMT
I use a 24 on mine and it runs fine
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Post by gugne on Jan 10, 2020 9:05:22 GMT
I use a 24 on mine and it runs fine Cool thanks
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Post by gugne on Jan 10, 2020 9:28:03 GMT
fairly productive day yesterday. Crank and oil seal fitted - WHAT SIZE NUTS DO I NEED FOR EITHER END OF THIS CRANK? Oil seal changed (2 oversize) and gear change fitted Kickstart quadrant oil seal changed and fitted but even though I'd bagged and labelled everything the bloody spring for the kickstart gear was missing. Balls! Time to fit the 27/69 bell. Except it doesn't fit. It seems like the fins are too long by about 2mm. Balls! Here are all the photos. Have they sent the wrong one or is there a special way of fitting it? Here you can see the old one goes in but the new one doesn't The code on the bag suggests this is the top one in the picture and I need the bottom one: www.drtdenis.com/catalogo/sottocat.htm%20DBE?idcat=97&catee=01It says it has fins that are longer, perforated and strengthened. So I have a few options: 1. return it and buy the right one 2. fit it somehow 3. keep it because it's worth more than the one I want and buy a replacement then sell the wrong one. UPDATE-
HENRI SAYS THIS WILL FIT SO I'LL HAVE ANOTHER GO ON SUNDAY JUST NEED TO KNOW WHAT SIZE NUTS I NEED FOR EITHER END OF THE CRANK
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Post by gugne on Jan 11, 2020 10:10:01 GMT
Changed my mind. I'm going with a standard height 27/69 Pollini basket.
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Post by tzsteve on Jan 11, 2020 21:26:20 GMT
I have the DRT basket in mine I needed to pack out the cover and rear brake back plate by 1mm but the basket is a little stronger than the standard item the four plate clutches fit a little better the straight cuts give a little less side thrust to the clutch bearing and allows for the choice of 3 or 4 different crank shaft pinions
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Post by gugne on Jan 13, 2020 9:27:42 GMT
I have the DRT basket in mine I needed to pack out the cover and rear brake back plate by 1mm but the basket is a little stronger than the standard item the four plate clutches fit a little better the straight cuts give a little less side thrust to the clutch bearing and allows for the choice of 3 or 4 different crank shaft pinions I considered all of those problems and couldn't face the shit and so ordered a Polini. I have a Crimaz Easy clutch and a 3 plate Newfren to go in there and I'm hoping that they should be strong enough for what I'm building plus be light and smooth. Also ordered the missing kick-start spring, which you know will reappear the moment I unpack the parcel, plus M12 nuts for the crank. This is the moment where one of you tells me they are the wrong size. Well I DID ask here and I emailed Pinasco and they said I should use the ones for a PK50 or PK125 which, as far as I can tell were M12's. I even measured both ends of the crank and it was 12mm. Fingers crossed then!
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Post by henri on Jan 13, 2020 12:40:42 GMT
oops , meant to post this the other day an forgot . flywheel nut is M12 x 1.25 fine thread ,primary sides M12 x 1.5mm .H
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