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Post by smallframenyc on Dec 12, 2019 12:07:30 GMT
Looking great, I have a v90 with a rotted out floorboard, will be doing this job also in the future Welded the floor this evening. Some grinding before it goes to sand blasting    |
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Post by robert on Dec 18, 2019 23:39:37 GMT
I think I have a problem  . Just checked the frame again with the cross laser and its not true. I probably did not get it correct when I tried to do it and now the new floor is welded and feels solid as a rock. Is it ok to have it like this, Im afraid to put a long bar in and bend, I tried but hesitated. Maybe I damage the fork tube or it bends of its welds, or any other problems. What do I do now. Really dont want to remove the floor again.  Looking great, I have a v90 with a rotted out floorboard, will be doing this job also in the future |
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Post by tzsteve on Dec 21, 2019 17:20:01 GMT
 that's not too far out I have pulled frames straight by putting a bar in the steering column hole and with a buddy hold the rest of the frame still then just brute force vespa frames are very weak |
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Post by robert on Dec 21, 2019 18:55:33 GMT
Thanks that sounds promising but I rigged it like this and had my dad (90kg) sitting on it. I forced it very hard and everything lifted in the opposite side. New floor is thicker than original floor and welded many spots. Also got scared if damage could occur on inner tube welds or anything like that.. but I will bolt it to the floor and try again  |
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Post by tzsteve on Dec 21, 2019 19:58:59 GMT
nice setup
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Post by robert on Jan 9, 2020 9:26:48 GMT
I had to rebuild the ”frame jig” because I had to put extreme force and the floor started to bend bad. I made a new jig that only put load up under the tunnel. Had to pull with everything I had, the pipe bent but I think the frame is better now. Will check with laser again next time. I welded in many places and made som small reinforcements so frame seems to be super solid.    |
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Post by tzsteve on Jan 9, 2020 16:18:52 GMT
brute force is always a big helper in these situations
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Post by robert on Jan 16, 2020 0:33:16 GMT
Seems to be much better now when checking with the cross laser. I had my rear brake pedal broken. Is it possible to weld this? TIG or whats the best option. Would JBweld work? Thanks    |
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Post by robert on Jan 18, 2020 12:39:43 GMT
Think I want to reinforce the rear shock absorber mount.
Any good ideas on that?
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Post by tzsteve on Jan 22, 2020 16:56:23 GMT
not needed
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Post by robert on Jan 23, 2020 7:53:35 GMT
Thx! I’ll leave as it is.. Some brake pedal painting.  |
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Post by robert on Jan 29, 2020 22:56:45 GMT
And some powder coating... Also left the engine cases for milling, really hope it ends well    |
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Post by robert on Jan 31, 2020 6:35:06 GMT
Is this piece threaded or pressed inside? If threaded, left or right?  |
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Post by wattyboy on Jan 31, 2020 21:52:32 GMT
Threaded and it's left handed.
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Post by robert on Feb 8, 2020 14:39:37 GMT
Got the engine back from milling and I now have a problem. Any ideas on solving this?   |
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Post by dazzz on Feb 10, 2020 10:44:57 GMT
Weld it up
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Post by robert on Feb 10, 2020 11:28:01 GMT
Got recommendations about brazing it. Some say that it is very risky to weld it bacause of warp, bearing seat issues.. Can not decide what to do.. Really dont want it to be complete waste |
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Post by robert on Feb 12, 2020 23:32:59 GMT
Seems like I got it sorted with alloy brazing. Took a while getting it to 380 C, a bit pain to do but the hole is gone.   |
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Post by robert on Feb 13, 2020 21:58:49 GMT
Turns out I get a small tension now putting the cases together.
Its not visible but its there. Something happened somewhere when heating it.
Any ideas on getting that sorted? Bolt it up with all the engine bolts and put it in the oven for half n hour at max 250degrees?
Im not sure its needed but I dont like having a tension between the cases even if its very small.
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Post by robert on Feb 17, 2020 12:49:30 GMT
Sand blasted and epoxy primer  |
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