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Post by boreham on Nov 5, 2018 20:25:54 GMT
picked this up rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F292721508635the body is in fairly good nick for the year (Jan 79), it had the original 50 engine replaced with a V90 at some point, 1967 engine so good as a base to tune. Will be leaving the frame ‘as is’ but need to have a good view on what to do with the motor, so far: 1. Parmakit 144 W force, but seems a lot of case work, crank. Plus limited exhaust choice 2. Quattrini, just the M1 and a good carb and pipe 3. Pinasco Zeura SRV, direct reed, apart from the porting seems a straightforward fit, anyone used one, what crank, pipe and carb? will keep up the pics as we get started just need to get the 4 speed gearbox first I think, would be fun on a 3 speed!!
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Post by terjee on Nov 11, 2018 12:00:56 GMT
If you put a 20 hp + cylinder on it you better have the parts for it, the standard gearbox/ input shaft/ primary gerings/ clutch can not hold a kit like this. If you do not want to put up to 5000$ on it the malossi mk3 is the best kit i think. I have a Parmakit 144cc, i need to bye some better cylinder, the nicasil is so bad it can not handle little wet sandpaper. I had a polini evo, it had god nicasil. My malossi mk3 28mm dellorto Mrp 350 reed, have 4000 km on it now and run like it is new.
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Post by nickj on Nov 11, 2018 19:35:26 GMT
I’m running an M1 with a franz pipe, vespatronic, short 4th and DRT clutch. It’s a really nice set up that works great riding round London where top speed isn’t the aim. Had it on a polini CP28 but just dropped to a 24 which seems much better match. Kit is standard, just ported the cases and inlet
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Post by boreham on Nov 12, 2018 16:04:56 GMT
Picked up a good deal at PM tuning, Parmakit 135 SP09, on sale at a very good price (£200 off!), Parmakit full circle crank, MRP inlet on its way from Germany (RD350 Reed) DRT runner tree and BGM clutch.
The cases just need converting to reed, I am now living in Cheltenham and have been referred to Shiny Red in Gloucester for the work. Carb wise still to decide plus the pipe, as it has the SP port hear are a few options!
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Post by Juan on Nov 13, 2018 17:19:26 GMT
Don't full circle cranks only work with direct induction?
Certainly if you look at say the Worb5 cranks for case reed they chamfer both sides of the traditional big/ full web to allow the fuel and air mixture into the case.
Exhaust probably look at a Big Bertha or similar. Someone was selling a Big Bertha on here a few months back but can't remember if it sold or not.
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Post by tzsteve on Nov 14, 2018 16:30:14 GMT
full circle = no inlet on the crank
so as you say its piston port or reed valve
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Post by boreham on Dec 9, 2018 13:27:10 GMT
Finally made a start, plus santa has been early! Decided not to chop apart the V90 engine that came with the scoot as totally original, 3 speed 6 volt etc... and in excellent condition, i went for a ride haha what an experience at max 30mph!!! The casings came from Juan, they had been decked and ported for an M1 but only took a mild bit of reshaping to match the new cylinder, the cases are PK50 and in great condition. They have been welded and although decked a BGM 0.5mm base gasket brings it back to match the new cylinder. The full bearing kit cam from SCK, although the conversion bearing for the ETS crank was listed at nearly £60! a visit to a local bearing shop and the NU1105 is a pricey £19 and off the shelf! The cylinder is finally a Parmakit 135 SP09, matched with a modified ETS 'Competizione' crank, next job is to blend the intake to accept the stunning MRP reed inlet, with RD350 reed and 36mm outlet which will breath through a 30PHBH. New mainshaft and gearbox with DRT runner, mated with 27/69 primaries.
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Post by boreham on Dec 9, 2018 13:28:06 GMT
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Post by boreham on Dec 9, 2018 13:30:07 GMT
MRP Inlet, a stunning piece of engineering!
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Post by tzsteve on Dec 9, 2018 15:14:07 GMT
some nice bits to play with
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Post by boreham on Dec 16, 2018 13:57:13 GMT
Finally started on the frame, overall not to bad, no issues in the usual problem places, it does have around 1.5mm of paint on it!!! It seems the original paint colour is a nice blue (any ideas from anyone what colour this is?? There is a layer of cream, then a very badly applied coat of white, effectively just cracks off!! Anyone have any ideas how you put the images in from Flickr??? my photo bucket account has been closed! Link to the album: flic.kr/s/aHsmxyQvwyThe front mudguard seems new, plus the forks seem to have had a recent rebuild. There seems to be only one rough spot on the R/H floor board, plus the frame has a modified past with the air filter hole that was under a plate on the frame, plus the intake hole on the engine side has been enlarged!!
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Post by Juan on Dec 16, 2018 22:49:17 GMT
I remember them coming in a Navy blue but that looks lighter.
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Post by boreham on Dec 24, 2018 10:26:04 GMT
Started on the engine, inserted all the bearings (the flywheel was tight!) seals and primaries.
The casings had been decked for an M1 and i expected to have to raise the cylinder so a number of BGM base gaskets 0.5, 0.8 and 1mm were in my toolbox but surprisingly the piston land absolute on the transfers, and i mean exact (0.1mm measured) so no spacer required. The ports all blend nicely and they are huge on these SP09 cylinders!
Built the gearbox onto the shaft but have to wait for a new circlip, the 2 supplied from LTH were different sizes so one fitted but the second was 4mm too small, BGM selector and uprated LTH spring. Attachments:
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Post by boreham on Jan 6, 2019 16:22:05 GMT
Another day in the sunshine, got the gearbox together, initial build have an end float of around 0.75mm so too loose, a combination of shims and a thicker base circlip (1.75mm vs genuine Piaggio at 1.5mm) finally got me at just under 0.1mm so spins freely but zero play. The BGM selector is well made, very good fit and precise with an LTH uprated spring, it does make a good alternative to other uprated selectors. Gearbox in, kickstart and primary, i went for the Pinasco 27/69 which seems the default for these kits. The new backplate is the SIP remanufactured one, seems a great fit but the rear adjuster is M7 instead of the M8 original.
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Post by boreham on Jan 26, 2019 8:32:05 GMT
Next steps were too refurbish the forks and rear hub etc..... plus brakes. The forks were a pig!, the usual front shocker was completely seized on, so had to blowtorch out the rubber bush and grind through the steel inner, very carefully so not to ruin the hub. New bearings, seals and O rings and an adjustable YSS front shock. Also fitted the Carbon anti dive, this again was not straightforward as the YSS shock comes with aluminium bushes which were thicker than the spacer provided in the kit so had to turn down each side by 1.5mm, frustrating that nothing ever fits! Took the extra precaution to fit some decent brake shoes when the engine is finished! Attachments:
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Post by boreham on Jan 26, 2019 8:34:36 GMT
Rear hub was not great, the brake cam was worn in the casting on the old backplate, so ordered one of the SIP remanufactured ones, usual quality item, rebuilt with new cam, seal and fittings, again Malossi performance brake shoes.
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Post by potatopl on Jan 28, 2019 11:35:26 GMT
In all descriptions of those "anti dive kits" it's written, than you should use a standard grade shock. The pivot point is altered and uprated spring shocks become too stiff. You can confirm whether they are right or wrong
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Post by boreham on Jan 28, 2019 19:43:04 GMT
Interesting question, there is nothing on the instructions, indeed they surprisingly recommend the Carbone uprated and adjustable shock, I have set to the lightest setting so will report back once on the road!
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Post by madmax on Jan 28, 2019 21:13:43 GMT
Crimaz was the first one that made the antidive and he suggest to use a standard shock with it. I know of people that tried with un apreted shock and was way to stiff.
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Post by henri on Jan 29, 2019 6:48:37 GMT
wot max said ,H
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