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Post by leon on Apr 13, 2016 14:29:28 GMT
I ordered that honing tool from ebay but when it arrived the pads were a lot shorter than in the photo, so they'd have caught on the middle inlet port. Have found an engineering place two minutes from my work that will hone the barrel for a tenner so will be dropping it in there this week.
My Beedspeed order arrived yesterday and my SIP order is on its way, should hopefully start the rebuild at the weekend.
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Post by cluelessfromkent on Apr 16, 2016 17:44:23 GMT
I ordered that honing tool from ebay but when it arrived the pads were a lot shorter than in the photo, so they'd have caught on the middle inlet port. Have found an engineering place two minutes from my work that will hone the barrel for a tenner so will be dropping it in there this week. My Beedspeed order arrived yesterday and my SIP order is on its way, should hopefully start the rebuild at the weekend. This has turned into a bit of a nightmare for you Lean, but you seem to be taking it in your stride. Well done mate and good luck with it. You are already way above my abilities. Ha ha, just checked your original post: 'Not sure mine really counts as a project as such as all I'm intending to do is change the carb and fit a new speedo'
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Post by leon on Apr 18, 2016 9:54:38 GMT
Haha yeah I definitely got more than I bargained for! I bought it in November and thought I'd be riding it by Christmas. I've enjoyed the whole process though to be honest, and I'll be far better able to maintain it once its finally up and running, and I'll have the satisfaction of having done it myself cos I'd never worked on my previous scooters. Only problem is I'll probably get itchy spanner fingers when its done and be scheming to get another!
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Post by leon on Apr 20, 2016 10:16:34 GMT
I started the reuild yesterday, hurray, managed to get the clutch side bearings in ok after a bit of faffing about. I froze the bearings and heated the casings. Hardest was the primary drive/clutch basket bearing, I thought I'd knackered it as it wouldn't spin as I was knocking it in, but once it was seated squarely it was fine.
I don't have a socket or anything large enough to sit on the outside race of the bearings so I had to use the largest one I have and tap round the circumference bit by bit. Got there in the end though.
The rear axle slid in almost rudely, when Scooterhelp suggested it would be tough. Had a bit of a Krypton Factor moment trying to get the gears on the right way but think I've sussed it now! All gaps are pretty much equal. The kickstart quadrant is also back in, as is the clutch basket.
I wanted to ask, should I grease any of the bearings in the casing? As some of them are on the outside of the seals and I assume therefore won't get any gearbox oil on them. Probably just answered my own question there....
Also whats the best way to get the seals in without damaging them if they're stubborn? Heat the casings?
Cheers all. Leon
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Post by kev on Apr 20, 2016 19:33:13 GMT
Don't heat the casings to put the seals in as the seals will melt , you can smear a little bit of grease around the outside diameter of the seal and basically tap it in on the outside edge of the seal or you can also use a socket to knock the seal in the same way you knocked the bearings in .
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Post by henri on Apr 21, 2016 9:05:56 GMT
the only bearings not lubricated by gear oils are lubed by the 2stroke oil in the fuel .a slop of pure 2stroke on em after fitting ensures there lubricated on first start up .an seals i usually smear loctite/bearing locker on the outside diameter to ensure they sit tight n wont rotate.this acts as a lube as there installed ,an a smear of grease or 2stroke oil on the inner diameter to help the shaft/crank to slide through an not damage them on 1st start . H
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Post by leon on Apr 21, 2016 11:51:41 GMT
Cheers fellas. Just dismantled the clutch and stuck the new cork plates in to soak after checking they were the right ones. Will do the seals later today.
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Post by leon on May 2, 2016 18:39:07 GMT
Been a bit slow to update this thread, but I did a bit of work last week and some more today. Got the casings back together today and put the clutch back in. Just waiting for my barrel and piston to come back from Beedspeed. Despite limited space in the shed, I made myself a little preparation bench so I could lay out the parts of whatever bit I was working on. New crank and kickstart quadrant installed. Clutch basket and primary gear back in. Flyside bits and bobs in. Casings back together. Clutch back in. Couple of questions then: - The base gasket needs trimming to match the ported casings - Any ideas whats the best tool for the job? - The crank turns smoothly but is pretty stiff, is that normal? When I first took the engine out the old crank spun a lot more freely. - the kickstart clicks really loudly when it returns, does that sound wrong, or is it just louder cos the engine isn't complete? Theres a short vid below. Thanks guys, Leon
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Post by henri on May 3, 2016 10:23:59 GMT
with oil in it the sound will deaden , sounds sweet to me . i use nail scissors to trim gaskets with . an a new crank/bearings/seals can feel stiff ,so long as it turns evenly with no tight spots its ok. thats why you run a engine in ,til its whats called "loosened", bedded in . alls looking good from pictures .hard to tell from angles in pictures ,is the conrod centred on the joint in cases ,as in pictures it looks slightly over to clutch side .sorry to worry ya ,but. H
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Post by leon on May 3, 2016 13:16:40 GMT
That's great, thanks H. Youve reassured me. Think the conrod is centred, but will check . Need to kick Beedspeed up the bum now cos I rang on Thursday and they said they'd send my barrel for the weekend but not heard anything since.
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Post by leon on May 15, 2016 19:55:48 GMT
My barrel came back this week, and once I got losing in the first leg of the play off semi final against Millwall out of the way I had an hour or two in the shed to try get it back on. Thats the right way round isn't it? Studs back in, with a dab of loctite. I trimmed the base gasket with nail scissors as per Henri's advice. Piston seems to be moving nice and smoothly in the bore. Things are starting to come together. Need to get the stator back on next and get my head round setting the timing, then the flywheel. Not far off now.
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Post by leon on May 17, 2016 20:44:30 GMT
Put the exhaust and inlet manifolds on tonight, along with the rear hub. Unfortunately, I noticed that the studs on the rear hub look knackered, like the scooter has been ridden with the rim nuts not properly tightened up: Looks like I'll need a new rear hub. Also, I could do with some advice about the stator - I don't seem to be able to get it to sit flush in the casing, the stator seems to be too big. I've tried to show it in these photos: With the stator sitting flush and fastened with the bolt that is to the bottom right (not in first picture), it won't sit flush with the mount at top right of the picture or the mount bang in the middle of the photo. Has anyone else had this issue and what did you do? The stator is this one from Beedspeed. Also it has one wire less coming out of it than the one I took out of it. These are the wires on the new one: The old one also had a green wire going to the junction box: What does the green wire do and any idea why its not on the new stator? Thanks a lot, Leon
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Post by kev on May 17, 2016 21:31:13 GMT
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Post by leon on May 17, 2016 22:02:03 GMT
Cool! I never realised the studs screwed in. 17 years ago I bought a new hub after causing the same issue myself on my PX, didn't tighten the nuts enough and nearly sheared off the studs riding round with them loose. If only I'd known then, cos I then accidentally damaged one of the studs on the replacement and ended up buying a second one!! What a numpty . Thanks Kev.
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Post by henri on May 18, 2016 8:48:39 GMT
yep greens the kill switch/ignition if memorys workin today .some pk's have a 3 pin cdi an kill wire goes to stator , most have the 4 pin cdi's an kill wires the green connection ,common with the green power from stator/ignition coil . your stator not sitting flush is probably the wiring behind it not being routed correctly an pushing it out .feed the wires thru there respective holes an make sure there not getting pinched by stator plate . studs are screwed in then peened over to lock em .sometimes they will wind out easy but with a damaged one like that its best to drill on the backside before trying double nut-ing an winding out .probably break off tho, most either replace the hub or drill thru an use a high tensile bolt an nut instead . H
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Post by leon on May 18, 2016 9:11:30 GMT
Thanks H. So is not having a green wire a problem?
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Post by henri on May 18, 2016 9:18:38 GMT
no , you can either connect the green loom kill wire to the green power to cdi wire in the junction box .or run a extra wire from the green connection on cdi to the killswitch/loom wire in junction box . without it connected your ignition/kill switch wont work .ok .hope that makes sense as ive just re-read it an cant think how to explain better .too much beer last night ,sufferin now . H
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Post by leon on May 18, 2016 14:42:51 GMT
Wiring is a foreign land to me but I'll re-read your post when I'm in the shed with everything in front of me and see if it makes sense then! Ta.
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Post by tzsteve on May 18, 2016 17:22:42 GMT
the stators normaly sit a little proud from the case upto a mm would not worry me though 0.5 seems most common
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Post by leon on May 19, 2016 14:56:28 GMT
the stators normaly sit a little proud from the case upto a mm would not worry me though 0.5 seems most common Cheers Tzsteve, but its the fact it won't sit flat the concerns me, so I can't get the retaining bolts and washers to secure it in place. its about 2 or 3mm proud in the top left of the photo of it cos it won't 'sit' in the space for it, seems to overlap the two mounts at the top and to the left by over 1mm, but is 'sitting' in the right place at the bottom right mount, so its sitting wonky.
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