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Post by eean on Jan 14, 2013 19:13:44 GMT
Yeh me too mate, it was the first time an engine has been near the frame this afternoon and I thought this is going to be fuckin' smart, its on its side to show and discuss the subframe to be made to connect altogether, George is having a think and then we'll have further chats on ideas he comes up with. The garage its in is a basement of an old mill not far away from me and is full of motorsport shinanigans, nice old looking stuff made from ali and spaceframe chassis etc, fascinating workshop facilities and the like, I'm like a kid in a sweetshop when I go there
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Post by eean on Jan 14, 2013 19:15:00 GMT
Ah no Max I didnt mate
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Post by madmax on Jan 14, 2013 19:26:45 GMT
Sorry mate, I thought I PMd it to you! Here you go then: ;D
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Post by Wayne Miller on Jan 14, 2013 19:36:18 GMT
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Post by eean on Jan 14, 2013 20:41:10 GMT
Thanks Max appreciated mucho The TDR boys know how to make em Wayne
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Post by Juan on Jan 14, 2013 20:44:23 GMT
Are you going to run a wide rear rim?
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Post by eean on Jan 14, 2013 21:29:27 GMT
Just going to use a SIP tubeless rim with TT90 sticky Got the Hartz clutch to go in and with cover spacer theres not going to be much room ;D
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Post by amazombi on Jan 14, 2013 22:28:02 GMT
There won't be a pipe, or a frame, to interfere. I guess you can run pretty much anything you want. Though I think wider tires are heavier, and since it's rotating weight it's even worse. In terms of grip you won't need them anyway, I'd say. Tire width is not relevant for grip anyway.
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Post by Juan on Jan 14, 2013 22:43:13 GMT
I was thinking more along the lines of relaxing the sidewalls a little rather than going for bigger tyres to allow a slightly bigger footprint. But presumably it'll be running fairly low PSI so it'll probably make little or no differance.
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Post by Wayne Miller on Jan 14, 2013 22:43:57 GMT
3.50-10" TT92's can hit the swing arm so mods may be required to the engine casings either that or run GS160/SS180 rims or space the wheel out with a spacer
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Post by Wayne Miller on Jan 14, 2013 22:49:02 GMT
PS you deffo want the 3.50's for your top speed Im using TT92's on mine I temporarily put washers behind the wheel rim which cured the issue. Its going to be out of line with a spacer but that doesnt matter to you as your building a subframe anyway, just slightly offset the engine
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Post by ttscshaggy on Jan 14, 2013 23:03:53 GMT
Im using a 2.50 rim on mine with Duro 3.50 and a 3.00 on the front No real issues with any rubbing. The offset wont be an issue really. Your going in a straight line for what.....15 secs ?
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Post by tony on Jan 15, 2013 1:41:26 GMT
If its acceleration you want I would re-read what mathias wrote. You dont need or want a 3.50 for that. Get the weight off the wheel... all that rotating mass is not what you want. And even if its top speed I would still look at a small tyre and upgear. Yes I ran 3.50s on the 104mph run. But I wanted to run the bike in road/race trim not sprint trim.
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Post by Wayne Miller on Jan 15, 2013 17:06:34 GMT
Im running 3.50's and cant upgear anymore without going down the custom route
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Post by eean on Jan 15, 2013 20:44:22 GMT
All very good input thankyou, I went for the 350 x 10 really for an initial setup with the gearing through the DRT tree with short 3rd and 4th, see how it goes, but just went for normal width of rim and tyre as Mathias says the width is not needed for grip, and in my book I'd have thought a wide tyre at the rear on this would be a way of losing power, we'll see anyway, I think tyre choice is a good thing for the grip/drive. I think Nic ran 3.50's with these casings but not sure, I'll check clearances when I've got it all together etc., Its going to be fun just having a go, i cant imagine getting it correct all in one go, and thats going to be a lot of fun I think, keep trying to improve it. At a later date when my funds have replenished somewhat ;D I'll get another tubeless rim and maybe a 300 x 10 for instant gearing changes but any help is greatly appreciated believe me as for working much of this stuff out is beyond me ;D I just want to enjoy putting it together and taking it sprinting
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Post by jonnysnatchsniffer on Jan 17, 2013 11:40:59 GMT
im using 80/90/10 tt91s on my scoot they are a little bit less than a 300/10 and very sticky but using a runner tree, standard gears and 29/68 primarys and this tyre my final 4th gear ratio is roughly the same as a standard primmy box which the polini evo revved out on i think with lower primarys and standard 1st it will be harder to keep the front on the floor but i know fuck all about sprinting so i dont really know if taller 1st's are more beneficial or not, id say tony is the man to speak to about gearing, i know hes not a sprinter and he wont give away secrets but even than hel know whats what
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Post by Wayne Miller on Jan 17, 2013 12:14:49 GMT
im using 80/90/10 tt91s on my scoot they are a little bit less than a 300/10 and very sticky but using a runner tree, standard gears and 29/68 primarys and this tyre my final 4th gear ratio is roughly the same as a standard primmy box which the polini evo revved out on i think with lower primarys and standard 1st it will be harder to keep the front on the floor but i know fuck all about sprinting so i dont really know if taller 1st's are more beneficial or not, id say tony is the man to speak to about gearing, i know hes not a sprinter and he wont give away secrets but even than hel know whats what The longer 1st gear the better with sprinting or so Ive been told.
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Post by jonnysnatchsniffer on Jan 17, 2013 20:21:15 GMT
so 50 odd in 1st then a load of ratios to suit the motor, good luck ;D
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Post by Juan on Jan 17, 2013 20:25:40 GMT
A longer first will have the benefit making launch more managable, hold longer and make the gap into second closer so your in the power sooner. That's the theory anyway but I doubt things are really measurable until you've honed your skills and have spent a lot of time and money elsewhere.
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Post by ttscshaggy on Jan 17, 2013 20:27:36 GMT
Im using a Drt Rovigo 55t in mine
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