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Post by stretch1 on Jul 4, 2011 21:32:58 GMT
It's time to rebuild my 135 after 16 years of sitting in the garage... I'm not in a hurry so it will probably take a while and the plan is to get the engine sorted first and then ride it as it is for a while... That way I'll get some enjoyment out of it while I source the rest of the parts and save some pennies to redo the frame etc So this is my starting base fresh out of the garage.... As you can see in the next one the frames kicked out a little at the back from a small incident with a Ken cobbin pipe that came loose and I ran over So, I'll need to get that straightened at some point engines looking a little worse for wear...and I'm missing a fin The barrel doesn't look too bad to my eyes. ie no signs of scoring that I can see the piston on the other hand is not so good.... Right, I've just checked the engine serial no. on scooterhelp and apparently the cases are a 1975 V90 engine and the frame is a 1983 PK80s electric start. It has a malossi 135 kit, gear kit, reverse barrel, crankcase induction, 25mm Dellorto carb and a 1 off hand made exhaust formulated for the engine...it's also had some tuning but not sure how much and possibly a racing crank... I'm now just keeping my fingers crossed that the piston skirt didn't do too much damage to the cases..... Thats it from me today, but, I'll keep you updated
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Post by ttscshaggy on Jul 4, 2011 21:47:32 GMT
Barrel doesn't look to bad nic , just needs a clean up the piston on the other hand You might aswell replace that with a gs piston when you get round to rebuilding the engine, its far superior
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Post by Juan on Jul 4, 2011 22:54:58 GMT
Nice basis there, I'd be tempted to just T-Cut it and do the tech stuff and I agree with Shaggs about the piston. Was that a non-indicator from the off or have the holes been filled?
Also, am I right in thinking that's a 50 Special headlight in there? Quite rare now and they make decent coin, certainly enough to get you a replacement PK item and a pint or 2.
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Post by charliec on Jul 5, 2011 6:43:28 GMT
Barrel doesn't look to bad nic , just needs a clean up the piston on the other hand You might aswell replace that with a gs piston when you get round to rebuilding the engine, its far superior does the GS have the "CVF" system implacated ito the piston? (i think thats what its called, them buts cut out to use the additional transfers) - ill give you some pics of my barrel stretch and show you mine incase your ever thinking of tuning! - i am loving that PK though!
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Post by charliec on Jul 5, 2011 6:45:42 GMT
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Post by stretch1 on Jul 5, 2011 12:57:45 GMT
Nice basis there, I'd be tempted to just T-Cut it and do the tech stuff and I agree with Shaggs about the piston. Was that a non-indicator from the off or have the holes been filled? Also, am I right in thinking that's a 50 Special headlight in there? Quite rare now and they make decent coin, certainly enough to get you a replacement PK item and a pint or 2. Cheers to you and Shaggs for the heads up re. the GS Piston just checked them out on SIP and they do look alot more substantial. The holes have been filled on this oneand yes, it's a 50 Special headlight. I was going some and didn't notice a very large speed ramp until too late Managed to keep upright but, when it landed the headlight fell out - I was skint at the time and had the 50 Special one knocking about, so, made the surround up out of ally and mounted that. Quite like it, as it looks a little different, but, good to know they're worth a bit now Charlie, thanks for the link, unfortunately, it says the content is not available ? Also, I've just realised it's registered as a 50 ! I need to change my address on the log book anyway, and would rather register it correctly. Just wondering re. registering as a 125 or a 135 - I'm guessing it's pretty much the same and the insurance should be cheap anyway, so, shouldn't be an issue, but, wondering if its likely to be more hassle to register as 135... thought I'd see what the consensus is?
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Post by stretch1 on Jul 5, 2011 20:31:44 GMT
I've done a little more work on it this evening - removed the seat, petrol tank speedo, throttle, clutch and brake cables. Just the gear cables to take out now, disconnect the wiring and then drain the oil and drop the engine if only I could find the 6mm spanner for the nipples Time to have some dinner and chill ;D
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Post by charliec on Jul 6, 2011 15:12:46 GMT
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Post by scfcpinky on Jul 6, 2011 15:27:02 GMT
Also, I've just realised it's registered as a 50 ! I need to change my address on the log book anyway, and would rather register it correctly. Just wondering re. registering as a 125 or a 135 - I'm guessing it's pretty much the same and the insurance should be cheap anyway, so, shouldn't be an issue, but, wondering if its likely to be more hassle to register as 135... thought I'd see what the consensus is? I have just insured my 90 as a 135 and the cost was the same. Im also going to re register my scoot as a 135 next week as Im to long in the tooth to be worrying about the DVLA. Cant see that it will be any hassle.
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Post by stretch1 on Jul 6, 2011 21:55:05 GMT
Also, I've just realised it's registered as a 50 ! I need to change my address on the log book anyway, and would rather register it correctly. Just wondering re. registering as a 125 or a 135 - I'm guessing it's pretty much the same and the insurance should be cheap anyway, so, shouldn't be an issue, but, wondering if its likely to be more hassle to register as 135... thought I'd see what the consensus is? I have just insured my 90 as a 135 and the cost was the same. Im also going to re register my scoot as a 135 next week as Im to long in the tooth to be worrying about the DVLA. Cant see that it will be any hassle. Okay Charlie, Ill take more pics Thanks Pinky, thats what I was looking for as I'm happy to register as a 135, but, wasn't sure if that would mean more hassle as they don't come in 135 as standard. I wasn't sure if registering as 135 would mean red tape re. a modified vehicle. Guessed not, but, best to hear from someone that's done it. Bike meet this evening and summer party tomorrow night, so, no updates tilll the weekend...
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Post by charliec on Jul 8, 2011 22:10:34 GMT
weeheey!! ;D
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Post by nick121170 on Jul 9, 2011 1:57:47 GMT
love that norrie seat on it mate,proper street racer ;D
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Post by stretch1 on Jul 11, 2011 20:49:53 GMT
Cheers Nick, Had a busy weekend, so, didn't even touch the scoot, but, tonight I got the engine out and removed the flywheel and all looks good and the stator one slightly dodgy bolt hole on the stator but still a bit of thread at the bottom so a little bit of thread lock should do when it goes back. Also removed the CDI and kickstart. Tomorrow the wheel once I've found my 1/2" drive ratchet and then I can get stuck into the clutch and cases. Keeping my fingers crossed the missing piston skirt hasn't damaged anything too badly....
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Post by stretch1 on Jul 12, 2011 21:02:02 GMT
Fairly productive evening today, found the ratchet and took the wheel off etc and split the cases Not sure whats of interest, so, I've taken quite a few pics Clutch basket Clutch plates have definitely seen some wear judging by the chamfered edges - does this mean they're badly worn or just not up to the job? with piston residue Wiped Clean and the other side Crank area doesn't look too bad to me - a few dents etc near the lip of each side and a scratch that I'm guessing can be polished on the carb transfer. Please let me know what you think? The crank is a Pinasco It looks like there's far too much sideways movement between the conrod and the crank. i1142.photobucket.com/albums/n611/stretchah/PK%20135%20engine%20internals/IMAG0078.jpg[/IMGIt also seems to be missing small chunks to me... I'm thinking that the crank is knackered and the sideways movement is what caused the Piston skirt to disintegrate, would be great to have your thoughts and ideas on this. Also, if you agree the cranks gone what would be the ideal replacement?
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Post by ttscshaggy on Jul 12, 2011 21:19:58 GMT
that sealing pad is not good!
If the crank has alot of play in the rod its definitely best to replace
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Post by stretch1 on Jul 12, 2011 21:30:51 GMT
that sealing pad is not good! If the crank has alot of play in the rod its definitely best to replace Thanks Shaggy, I'll replace the cirank to be on the safe side. Any reccomendations? Is the sealing pad likely to cause me alot of issues in that state? If so, is there anything I can do to repair it? Or If I remember what I've read on here you remove the sealing pad when you add a reed valve is that right? I'd rather keep it as is if I can...a bit lighter on the wallet too but don't want to risk further damage/poor running etc
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Post by Juan on Jul 12, 2011 21:35:51 GMT
Crank is bent and your clutch basket is fucked, throw the pair of them as as far and as hard as you can.
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Post by Juan on Jul 12, 2011 21:43:52 GMT
Looking at it again it might be the scabby pad that's done the damage to the crank, not laying money on that nor the 'pad cleaning up and repairing mind.
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Post by stretch1 on Jul 13, 2011 11:43:44 GMT
Looking at it again it might be the scabby pad that's done the damage to the crank, not laying money on that nor the 'pad cleaning up and repairing mind. Cheers guys, not having rebuilt a motor before and not having been near a 2 stoke for 16 yrs. I'm liable to ask a few stupid questions learning as a result though... Crank and Clutch basket thrown ;D and it seems like I have 2 options - get another set of cases or go reed valve - as cases don't seem to be too cheap either, I'm thinking the Reed Valve option may be best, the only thing that puts me off is the idea of cutting a hole in the frame for the carb. Does this have to be done or is there a way round it with barrel induction or something?
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Post by madmax on Jul 13, 2011 14:25:55 GMT
No need to cut the frame with the crankcase reed manifold. Just make sure you get the PK one.
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