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Post by nickj on Mar 8, 2017 0:10:37 GMT
I think I have an old Pk kickstart somewhere you can have for postage....let me know if it's any use to you
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Post by snails on Mar 8, 2017 9:47:26 GMT
Thanks Nickj. I'll check the old garage over the weekend and let you know.
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Post by snails on Mar 13, 2017 12:44:50 GMT
Ok trying to strip my front axle. Reading the instruction from Juan's post: 4) You now have to gently pry the drake drum from the face of the flange. If yours is anything like mine and rusted solid you may need to spray it with some WD40 and let it soak for a bit. Just to make sure I understand correctly, this is to lever the plate thing (drake (brake) drum) off by placing a lever between the brake shoes and the plate. Cant believe that is only locked in place by the small nipple!
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Post by tzsteve on Mar 15, 2017 16:01:19 GMT
im not sure as i aint seen one of those for 30+years but i have a hunch that you need to undu nuts etc from the other side and that big plate comes off with the axle something like this one i think you will see part 17436 ia a plate thing with an axle attached also if i recall correctly left hand threads are involved somewhere along the way so be carefull other than that its quite straight forward
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Post by henri on Mar 15, 2017 17:28:37 GMT
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Post by tzsteve on Mar 15, 2017 18:59:23 GMT
well spotted H. VBB is correct but roughly similar i think
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Post by snails on Mar 18, 2017 9:59:30 GMT
Thanks for the advice. I've managed to remove the v90 axle now. I'd looked at the sip parts diagram but hadnt really twigged that the drum brake seating (part 4) was the axle.
Now trying to remove the primmy spindle from one of the spare sets of forks. Its not proving too easy to drift out. I've already discovered that the speedo gearing drive does not like acting as a thread protector on the end I'm hitting. I think I might be missing something somewhere...is there anything else that needs to be undone other than the speedo gearing before I can drift the spindle out from the suspension side?
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Post by vinrouge on Mar 18, 2017 13:31:10 GMT
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Post by snails on Mar 27, 2017 9:49:31 GMT
Ta da! Some progress Fortunately someone gave me a wheel rim (and tyre, and engine stand, cant remember who but thanks again!) I've never fitted tubeless rims to any of my scoots but its something that's been in the back of my mind for this project. Obvious drawback is the cost but I may look at how much and think about the safety improvements. Any recommendations? The wheel looked a bit big compared with previously. I'd never really thought about this. I assume that wheel size changed between v90 and Primmy? Or is it my imagination? Daft novice question I know! Next up is the headstock swap.....
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Post by davet on Mar 30, 2017 19:48:44 GMT
Could just be the angle of the photo but the forks look a little bent. I hope not. Is the mudguard on straight? Do the forks turn from side to side ok?
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Post by nickj on Mar 31, 2017 6:56:54 GMT
There was a very good thread on doing a 5 stud conversion on here somewhere. Might be in technical stickies. It explains everything
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Post by snails on Mar 31, 2017 13:40:22 GMT
That photo does make them look a little bent but looking at it in real life they look straight to me. I'll double check when the forks are out
How do I get the lower part of the speedo cable to disconnect? I could cut it and wait till forks are out but I'd rather not.
I've removed the part attached to the axle and the big flat screw but can't see how the cable attaches to the remaining mechanism
I've completed the actual swap over of the axles thanks nick. The guide was very useful
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Post by tzsteve on Mar 31, 2017 14:50:45 GMT
on the V range hubs;
the speedo cable fits through a small steel plate on the outside of the hub, this small steel plate is held in place by a small screw, the small screw when it is tightened compresses a rubber grommet inside the hub, the rubber grommet grips the cable outer,
so remove the screw, the steel plate drops off and the cable and speedo worm can be pulled out.
as far as i know its a similar setup on all vespas.
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Post by nickj on Mar 31, 2017 18:37:53 GMT
And god why did they design it like that!!! That screw is the hardest screw on the whole scoot to get at
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Post by tzsteve on Mar 31, 2017 18:52:13 GMT
it was designed by a scooter dealer, so what do you expect? something easy.
i use an allen screw and a long, ball ended allen key
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Post by nickj on Mar 31, 2017 22:44:43 GMT
Yeah I have often thought about swapping the hex bolt for an Allen head but always worried it would get gummed up and I wouldn't be able to get the Allen key in..will give it a go
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Post by tzsteve on Apr 1, 2017 14:22:37 GMT
stainless seem to stay cleaner
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Post by snails on Jun 6, 2017 9:48:59 GMT
Progress on my vespa build is as ever going slowly but I'm trying to find time to push things forward in order to at least get the engine running on its stand. So as always a load of questions: In order to do this I need to mount the cdi. The logical place to me seems to be where the coil used to be. So looking at the sip website is this the correct mounting bracket? www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/bracket+sip+electronic+unit+_15880600Also looking at the picture below do I have the correct routing for the electrics coming from the flywheel. The cowling clip suggests that it should go that way but they are too short to reach the CDI in that case. Lastly where would the regulator be mounted when the engine is in the frame?
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Post by mark on Jun 6, 2017 10:30:57 GMT
H put my regulator under seat attached to bracket on hinge bolts , you will loose that copious under seat storage box though !
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Post by madmax on Jun 6, 2017 19:28:24 GMT
Wires are rooted like this:
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