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Post by jasonkeyzer on May 31, 2019 16:50:57 GMT
Hello all.
I replaced the driveshaft oil seal after I spotted a drop of oil on my wheel rim. This replacement obviously required the gearbox oil to be drained. Does anyone know the exact volume of gearbox oil that should be used? The reason I ask is that I drained the gearbox oil, but not all of it is going back in before it’s ‘full’. I’m using the oil that came out of the motor, as it hasn’t run since it was rebuilt....(rebuild was not done by me).
Also, the upper oil refill plug threads are stripped. So, are the threads on the oil plug standard (thinking helicoil repair). They look a little coarse... Alternatively, anything to worry about regarding welding the hole closed and re-tapping (eg. engine case warping).
Thanks all...
Jason
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Post by tzsteve on May 31, 2019 17:09:42 GMT
i think the threads are M8
these engines only hold about 1/2 pint of oil (SAE30) just fill it up until it starts to come out of the filler hole there is no benefit in over filling the case
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Post by jbcollier on Jun 1, 2019 13:56:54 GMT
Installing a helicoil makes for an inexpensive and effective repair resulting in stronger threads.
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Post by jonnysnatchsniffer on Jun 9, 2019 21:01:42 GMT
yeah but what about the swarf that may get into the newly rebuilt motor
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Post by jbcollier on Jun 9, 2019 22:29:53 GMT
Coat the tap and drill with grease first. After that, run some oil through it. You should be fine.
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Post by jasonkeyzer on Jun 16, 2019 16:38:54 GMT
Hi All
I decided to split the engine and have the oil refill hole welded up and re-tapped. In the end I went with a helicoil which seems to have worked well.
Just a quick question regarding the SAE30 oil... I don’t have any, but I do have 15w-40 oil. I’m not really sure what the difference is, but could I use the 15w-40 instead of the SAE30?
Any thoughts?
Thanks...
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Post by henri on Jun 17, 2019 5:57:33 GMT
you cant use 15w-40 instead of sae30 , 1st its the wrong weight , 2nd its engine oil probably an has detergents an additives that will fuck your clutch up . H
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Post by jonnysnatchsniffer on Jun 17, 2019 19:12:06 GMT
10w40 is what i use, as long as its jaso MA its fine for wet clutches, i use motul 5000 10w40 its jaso ma2 which is made for wet clutches and doesnt contain the friction modifiers that have a jaso mb specification that you talk about above. most mx bikes use it, you can use 15w40 and also 20w40 as long as it has jaso ma on the bottle sae 30 is fine too
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Post by henri on Jun 18, 2019 6:16:00 GMT
true johnny , an i was being lazy in my answer ,should of specified like you that only oil for use with wet clutches is suitable . H
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Post by jonnysnatchsniffer on Jul 13, 2020 17:42:54 GMT
just to add to this after 20 years lol sae 30 is 30 viscosity over a range of temp so it stays at 30 from cold engine to hot engine 10w40 is thinner to start with and thickens as it gets hotter, ambient temps play a part too but under a certain temp sae 30 may become 50 and over a certain temp will become 10 which is why i use 10w40, our summers can get up to 32c and winter -10 so it makes sense to use a multigrade oil
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Post by jbcollier on Jul 13, 2020 19:02:48 GMT
There's more, synthetic 10-40s are often naturally that way but conventional 10-40s use viscosity improvers that are long chain molecules that curl up or straighten out depending on the temperature. The problem is that these long chain molecules get chopped up in transmission gears. So your super-duper, high-tech oil quickly becomes straight 10w. So, synthetic only for oils with a wide viscosity range.
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Post by jonnysnatchsniffer on Jul 14, 2020 11:13:04 GMT
thats interesting, i use synthetic oil anyway, does this happen with non synthetic sae 30 oil as well ?
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Post by jbcollier on Jul 14, 2020 13:48:21 GMT
No, straight grade conventional oils are fine.
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