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Post by h11poc on May 4, 2019 16:29:26 GMT
A quick update - I changed points, condensor, made sure all the earths were good. Scooter starts but dies when throttle applied.. Well it has done this for weeks. Today i just kep it going with choke out. After an hour or so a puff of smoke from the exhaust and the it revved normally.. The bloody engine revven and ran normally? Could it be because it wasnt run for years it needed to settle or clear some crap out of somewhere??? Anyway , the running issue sorted. The brake light is still on - I tested a multimeter and it is 6.4 volts.. however , when you rev the engine the blubs at the rear blew so obviously somehow the volts are increasing. Does this help in the analysis now?? What makes the scooter lose stable current when revving???
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Post by jbcollier on May 5, 2019 18:37:03 GMT
Glad the engine is now running happily. Goes to show that the problems were not linked.
Now you have two issues left. 1: the brake light. 2: the bulbs blowing. Let's stick with the program and sort out the brake light function first. Then we can tackle the blowing bulbs (over voltage).
So, please answer my earlier question. If you pull off the wire from the brake light bulb, which has power, the blue wire, or the terminal? Please use a test light (with a bulb) not a multimeter. Clip the wire from the test light to the frame/engine, and use the probe on the wire and the terminal and report back.
(Obviously you will need to fit new bulbs first)
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Post by h11poc on May 6, 2019 11:43:35 GMT
TY JB.. Now i'm too embarrassed to tell you what i found.. The first this i tested was the brake light switch - the most obvious cause.. However i touched the earth and blue wire together at the switch and the brake light went out and the rear and pilot got bright , then when not touching the brake light back on. I have looked at that switch, taken it apart and clearly see it breaks and makes connection when pressed yet will not work when wires connected..surely to god its not just the switch
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Post by jbcollier on May 6, 2019 13:52:15 GMT
No need to be embarrassed. Now we know the wiring is ok, the light is grounded and that the problem has to do with the switch. It's either a mechanical or electrical issue. First check that it is the right switch. It should be a normally open switch, usually black in colour. In other words, pushing in the plunger joins the two connections. This way when the pedal is released/up, the plunger is depressed, the two contacts joined and the brake light power shorted to ground. Remove the switch and use the continuity tester on your multimeter to make sure the contacts are joined when the plunger is pressed. Good? Reinstall the switch. Now check that that the contacts are still joined with the pedal up. Perhaps the pedal isn't pushing the plunger down far enough.
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Post by h11poc on May 6, 2019 18:38:50 GMT
Thanks JB. I think it might be that the pedal resting against the switch is causing it. With the multimeter on the switch I have continuity.. however even less that a millimeter pressure on the plunger send the continuity to almost zero. I have ordered a new switch as this one is so sensitive the the pedal resting against the spring causes the light to stay on. Might even be that the plunder is too long.
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Post by jbcollier on May 7, 2019 12:23:55 GMT
It's the wrong switch. You have continuity with the plunger released. You need one with continuity with the plunger depressed.
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Post by jbcollier on May 7, 2019 12:42:06 GMT
The first thing to check for the bulbs blowing is that ALL bulbs are in place, working and of the correct wattage. Don't forget the speedo bulb. The wiring diagrams at scooterhelp dot com list all the bulbs and their wattages.
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