i think bikegrim is right XL not XL2
a few pics and a few more words
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so the work involved with the PK XL ( 20mm spindle ) forks
and ScootRS brake kit
shorten the leg by 20mm or it will look like a chopper
and the stand won`t reach the ground
( some people use a pk stand or weld a little on to the stand legs )
if using a standard pk/px damper you need to raise the top damper mount
by about 15mm, this can be done by making a couple of spacers to fit
into the top of the lugs on the pk fork and making your own
plate / bracket to take the damper.
you then need to modify the mudguard at the top and side to allow for
the damper being further up and further out than the standard unit.
its a lot of work but quite simple stuff ( welding or fibergalss ).
i`ve heard of a few people using the shorter damper from scooter-center
and a sportique mudguard with good results.
old thread the fixing point for the brake lever needs to be slotted to take the
bracket that holds the master cylinder.
i did mine a little at a time with a file till the lever was in a comfortable
position then drilled the extra hole to take a second brake pivot bolt.
easy stuff.
just take care to drill the bolt hole straight and tap the
bottom bracket the same as the original pivot bolt hole.
the v range speedo cable is too short so will not reach the speedo.
but you can use a PX speedo cable if you do some creative mods
to make the cable fit at both ends but the speedo will be just as
inacurate and crap as it was originaly.
i`m now using a Velona Daytona speedo/rev counter
( 1260 revs to the mile )
i tried a coso one first but that was total crud.
the valve on the tube was catching on part of the brake calipper
some tubes are better than others in this respect (Kenda tubes fit well).
to solve this problem i simply put a riv-nut over the end of the valve
before the dust cap and that pulls the valve out of the way.
a few people do not like the ScottRS brake
( the parts that fit on the hub etc ) saying that the calipers sieze
and suffer from corrosion etc.or the screws holding the disk to the hub are too small
i got mine from a forum mamber and it turned out that the disk was
warped "damaged in the post"?
another decent member sorted a straight disk for me and i have had no
problems with the brake since. mine has been ultra reliable and great in use.
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a lot of work.
but, as i said the scoot stops when i want it to and not 100 yards
later. i know that if i pulled the brake hard enough the scoot would
do a high side and toss me down the road.
the master cylinder and bracket can be bought as seperate items
from scooter-center. this is a nice unit as the lever is at a much
better angle and positioned so that it is easy to grab the brake
lever or to ride with a finger or two over the lever.
i found the lever was about 10mm too long for me so after removing the
ball end i repositioned it using some quick metal to glue it back
on. the ball end is hollow so it was just a case of filling the hole
with glue and pushing it on again.
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the master cylinder sits on a funny angle this makes it difficult to
fill and bleed without getting air locks in the brake line.
to solve this i turned the stearing to the left full lock,
and then i used an easy bleed kit for my car and used it
to pump the fluid up from the bottom at the bleed valve.
just make sure you put a rag over the headset, leg shield and mudguard
when doing this,
and have a hose pipe or large bucket of water handy to PROMPTLY
wash off any brake fluid that you get on to the scoot.
there are a few decent brake kits around now so look at a few before
you spend any cash.
the vespatime.com kit is probably the easiest kit to fit.
i think gav has a "vespatime.com kit" fitted and he seems happy with
his setup.
i thought the vespatime kit looked a little too weak and flimsey but i could be wrong
the vespatime kit is deffo easier to fit
