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Post by leon on Mar 25, 2016 10:01:20 GMT
Thanks Tzsteve, some good info there.
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Post by leon on Mar 30, 2016 14:30:36 GMT
Made a bit more progress and I almost look like I know what I'm doing. I've split the casings and had a nosy inside. Casings look sound to me, I assume its worth renewing all bearings as well as seals seeing as I've gone this far? I now have an engine stand too - aside from it being useful for working on, I want to make sure it starts and runs before I put it back in. I'd be grateful if any of you could cast your eyes over these pics to see if anything looks worn or iffy in any way. Am I right in thinking the largest gear is 1st? Theres a couple of notches on it anyway, but apart from that all the gears look sound. Would these notches be a concern? The crank stayed in the flywheel side when I split the casings - I didn't need to use any heat, just tapped a block of wood with a rubber mallet and wiggled a lot (the casings, not me). When I'm trying to remove any remaining bearings and the crank, do I heat the casing or apply heat to the bearing too? One last thing, I didn't need to use any heat on the barrel studs cos the sun did it for me. I went in after dinner time and a sunny morning, and as you can see my bench is in front of the shed window. the casings were warm to the touch and that was enough to get the studs out.
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Post by leon on Mar 30, 2016 14:36:39 GMT
PS I did try a bit of heat on the flywheel side near the crank as that seemed to be the sticking point. Following the advice that when spit bubbles its hot enough, I spagged all over it like I was at punk gig trying to actually get some spit on the area I was heating . Was a right mess.
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Post by leon on Mar 30, 2016 14:41:11 GMT
PPS I discovered its got standard Primmy gearing and Primmy primaries of 24/61. I assume that will be suitable enough for the Polini barrel/Leo Vince pipe/SHB 19.19 set up I have?
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Post by 3 speed Gareth on Mar 30, 2016 14:42:23 GMT
Oven on at 180. Pop cases in for 10 minutes. Bearings should just push out. If not another 5 mins and keep checking. Have new bearings ready to pop straight back in. Cook chicken.
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Post by leon on Mar 30, 2016 14:45:32 GMT
Haha one for when Julie is at work then..
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Post by leon on Mar 31, 2016 13:41:44 GMT
Sorry to pester, but am looking to place an order for the bits i need. Please can anyone advise whether the chips out of that gear in the pics are a problem. Those are the only blemishes on all four gears. There don't appear to be any chips/notches on the gear selector but as you can see I haven't totally dismantled it.
Thanks fellas Leon
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Post by kev on Mar 31, 2016 14:24:40 GMT
Sorry I can't really offer any real advice , but if your in doubt about those parts just replace them ,it'll put your mind at rest in the future and if those gears turn out to be useable ,they'll become valuable spares .
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Post by leon on Mar 31, 2016 15:01:28 GMT
Cheers Kev, I reckon you're right. Assuming I can just replace the worn 1st gear and keep the rest its only £30 or so on top of the rest.
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Post by leon on Apr 5, 2016 12:04:06 GMT
Big order just placed with Beedspeed, can't wait to start rebuilding it now.
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Post by henri on Apr 5, 2016 12:56:01 GMT
i'd replace that 1st gear . the chips are well through the case hardening an will rapidly wear if re-used .causing damage to the selecter an letting swarf an metal dust circulate the gearbox getting into ya bearings an elsewhere .apart from that its all looking good to me , now we just wait until you have the "doh" moment an realise ya should of also ordered something else .a little 30p widget ,that will cost ya another 3 quid postage on top . usually happens to me bout 30 seconds after ive got the dispatched notice . H
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Post by leon on Apr 5, 2016 14:51:51 GMT
Yeah I'm gonna do H, wasn't sure which one to pick on their site so I put a note on my Beedies order saying I needed one and which one do they suggest, same with the clutch plates.
And yeah no doubt I'll have missed something or other. Am gonna get my bearings from Simply Bearings as they seem better value.
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Post by leon on Apr 5, 2016 14:55:15 GMT
Also, theres no discernible lip on the barrel to suggest a rebore and oversize is needed, just a difference in colour of the metal where the rings go up to. Is there any benefit of sending the barrel to Beedspeed for them to check it?
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Post by henri on Apr 5, 2016 17:01:07 GMT
nope , a local re-bore shop will have the internal measuring tools if ya want it checked professionally. but if ya cant feel a lip should be fine with a quick hone/glaze busting an new rings .to check for yaself push new rings or old ring into the bore with a piston so its square an measure the ring gap with feeler gauges . cant remember the minimum off top of my head ,but with new rings if its over 1.5/2mm a rebores necessary. H
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Post by leon on Apr 5, 2016 18:27:54 GMT
Nice one thanks, will check ring gap and go from there.
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Post by tzsteve on Apr 6, 2016 15:01:46 GMT
it`s hard to tell from the photo`s but are the dogs on the gear selector damaged or worn? selectors come in two lengths 50.2 and 51mm cost varies drt ones are ok but the spring is a little hard, but standard ones from piagio seem a bit costly
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Post by leon on Apr 7, 2016 8:22:32 GMT
Hmm yeah the top pic of the selector does look like a couple of corners are rounded off. I'm getting to the top of my budget to be honest so might have to go with this one, but I'll have a closer look to see how bad it is and if there's any more wear.
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Post by leon on Apr 7, 2016 8:42:56 GMT
nope , a local re-bore shop will have the internal measuring tools if ya want it checked professionally. but if ya cant feel a lip should be fine with a quick hone/glaze busting an new rings .to check for yaself push new rings or old ring into the bore with a piston so its square an measure the ring gap with feeler gauges . cant remember the minimum off top of my head ,but with new rings if its over 1.5/2mm a rebores necessary. H Would this tool be ok to hone the barrel and is it as simple as this video suggests? Ta
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Post by henri on Apr 7, 2016 12:47:48 GMT
yes ,to deglaze a bore it can be done by hand with 1500 wet/dry . with a glaze buster youve got to get one were the feet are long enough to bridge the ports without dropping in a ripping emselves to bits .as i worked out when i tried to use a small brake cylinder hone as i couldnt find my right one .an dont let the hone just spin around in one spot . constant in n out movement so any marks are in a spiral from top to bottom of bore ok ,an slow/slow speed on drill if doing it with one . H
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Post by leon on Apr 7, 2016 14:56:40 GMT
Cheers Henri. Order placed.
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