|
Post by henri on Jan 25, 2016 11:23:11 GMT
maybe somebody in the past had put a polini reed manifold on those cases,they use 1 long n 1 short stud . an the old manifold looks like somebodys opened it out a bit,as does the inlet on cases .why are you changing manifold,i'm not sure/cant remember,but is it the smaller 16/16 one .if its not an a 19mm manifold i'd re-use it ,or match/blend your new manifold to cases .a "step" in your inlet causes turbulence an disrupts the incoming charge of fuel/air . H
|
|
|
Post by leon on Jan 25, 2016 12:22:22 GMT
Yeah now you mention it, it does look like someones had a go at the casings and manifold. Bollocks, I'm starting to get a bit lost here.
I bought a new manifold cos the old one is too big at the carb end for the 19mm carb I've now got - I swapped it on here for the 28mm one that was on the scooter. I thought dropping down to a smaller carb might help get it running as the old one seemed to be getting too much fuel through, hence unburnt fuel spewing out of the exhaust.
Excuse the stupid question, but how would you blend the manifold, would you use a dremel or something?
|
|
|
Post by henri on Jan 26, 2016 9:41:59 GMT
hand file or riffler ,or dremel or flexi-drive in a drill. as your not going for a all-out top tune an the steps "down" not up, i mean the inlet stub the smaller of the areas ,not such a problem as a "up" step in the flow.you could sidestep any matching/dremelling for now an just fit the manifold as is,it wont be too limiting for what your trying to achieve . H
|
|
|
Post by leon on Jan 26, 2016 11:49:51 GMT
Cheers Henri, the last bit was what I needed to hear! As there's still a possibility of a clutch side seal problem I was hoping to keep it simple for now with the carb.
|
|
|
Post by leon on Feb 1, 2016 11:52:52 GMT
So I fitted the 19mm carb and manifold, all new gaskets, put everything back together then remembered I'd forgotten to put the cowling bakc on, so everything back off, cowling on, everything back together, then I remembered I needed a new longer fuel hose. Aargh! A quick trip to Buzzsolomoto in Halifax solved that but then didn't get chance to get out in the shed again all weekend.
|
|
|
Post by henri on Feb 1, 2016 12:32:19 GMT
hi , been hesitating to ask ,but my natural "vulture" instincts wont give up . you got any plans for the old 28mm inlet ,or are ya open to offers . H
|
|
|
Post by leon on Feb 1, 2016 16:01:03 GMT
Haha yeah I'm open to offers, dunno what its worth so let me know what you think and I can get it sent. Can put some pictures up later if you want.
|
|
|
Post by leon on Feb 11, 2016 20:02:32 GMT
Apologies for the silly question, but after fitting a new manifold, putting the 19mm carb in, then sorting the fuel pipe issue above, then fitting a new float needle to stop the carb flooding, I tried tonight to get the thing started but failed miserably.
I kicked it over for what felt like ages and the only sign of life I got was one kick that started to catch then immediately died. I've checked everything I can think of - plug is getting wet, have checked for spark, carb is on securely and no longer leaking fuel - but I'm stumped. Am I missing something? I was trying to start with choke on. I also tried without. There is 3 litres of fuel in the tank. I can't think of anything else. Before I got this scoot before Christmas it was over 10 years since my last scooter so I'm even rusty on basics like this. Any pointers greatly appreciated guys. Leon
|
|
|
Post by kev on Feb 11, 2016 21:35:51 GMT
What have you set you mixture screw too ? 1 1/2 turns out is a good starting point , you could also try to bump start the scoot , sometimes that's easier than the constantly trying to kick it over .
|
|
|
Post by leon on Feb 11, 2016 21:42:45 GMT
Yeah have set it at 1 and 1/2. Was gonna ask about bumping. Thanks will give that a go.
|
|
|
Post by leon on Mar 21, 2016 10:44:54 GMT
Right so this 'not really a project' has become an actual project. I took the engine out yesterday and took the barrel off, as I'm going to replace the crank, along with the flywheel and the stator. When I get to splitting the casings I'll check whether anything else needs replacing. As per my thread in the tech board, the piston was on back to front, so that won't have helped me start it. Heres the head, with evidence of a bit of a leak: and more evidence of that leak on the barrel: Piston Am I right in thinking the cases have been ported to match the barrel? So my first questions are: Does that piston need replacing? I didn't take a pic of inside the barrel but from memory it didn't have the marks the piston has. What should I do about that leak at the head? Will I need to do any work to the head/barrel, or just ensure its torqued up properly when I rebuild? Cheers
|
|
|
Post by potatopl on Mar 21, 2016 11:00:23 GMT
Can you post the pictures of both sides of the piston and the inside of the cylinder? The piston looks like a Polini 130 DOUBLE INTAKE one. I was helping my mate to build the same kit and the arrow on the piston was in fact the wrong direction. The standard MONO polini piston have bigger window in the middle of the skirt, the DOUBLE version have smaller window on the top of the piston. Post the inside of the cylinder and outside on the intake side. Does it have an additional window that is blanked by a plate? From the photos, the piston looks like it was installed correctly: window opposite to the exhaust (window is facing the inlet manifold). If the cylinder is a MONO I'd change the piston. It's best to buy the Grand-Sport piston replacement set. They have the standard oversizes and "big bore" ones that are at sale right now for 35EUR: StandardOversize
|
|
|
Post by leon on Mar 21, 2016 11:36:27 GMT
Thanks Potatopl, I'll post more pics when I next get in the shed, probably tomorrow. I'm pretty sure the barrel only has one intake on the outside with no sign of a blanking plate, but will post pics.
|
|
|
Post by gav on Mar 21, 2016 22:19:19 GMT
yes that piston is from a twin intake kit,
|
|
|
Post by leon on Mar 21, 2016 22:39:23 GMT
|
|
|
Post by gav on Mar 21, 2016 22:44:32 GMT
yes mate wrong piston for that barrel
|
|
|
Post by leon on Mar 21, 2016 22:55:36 GMT
Cheers Gav. Just piecing together what is inside this engine so I know what I need to get.
|
|
|
Post by leon on Mar 24, 2016 21:29:44 GMT
Got the clutch out today and had a chance to check out the primary gear. Does the clutch look in decent shape? There's a few notches but the tabs look OK. If the metals OK should I just replace the cork plates? The tabbed washer is all mashed, what's the best way of getting it off? Is it OK to tap away with a hammer and screwdriver to try pry it away from the nut? I tried getting a screwdriver to get it off the nut but had no luck. Does this need removing to split the casings? If so how? Lastly two things - , should the gudgeon pin come out easy? I've removed the retaining clips but am struggling to get it out. Also I got one barrel stud out using two nuts, but the other three wouldn't budge, I just end up loosening both nuts. Would heating the studs help? Thanks fellas, Leon
|
|
|
Post by tzsteve on Mar 24, 2016 21:57:30 GMT
clutch plates usualy come as a full set and are quite cheap, those plates would be ok for a bit in a standard engine but for the cost while the clutch is out i would put a new set of plates in, if the engine is staying standard a set of standard plates would do the job.
the tab washer , use a very sharp screwdriver and a few light taps once it moves a little put a socket over the nut and tap it down this will flatten the washer.
gudgeon pins are tight on standard vespas and lambrettas for some reason and a nice sliding fit on good quality and jap pistons.
the studs yep a bit of heat will help (HEAT THE CASE NOT THE STUDS) i have a cheap heat gun, but i know a few very experianced riders who use a hair dryer you could always try using more than two nuts (say 4)
that engine dowel by the pen looks like a home made job i would guess that the original one got lost. i lost one from my case and used an old drill bit cut to the correct length.
|
|
|
Post by tzsteve on Mar 24, 2016 22:15:51 GMT
just read the earlier part of this thread. re the leaking head: what i do is wrap some paper around the outside of the barrel and tape it in place so that the paper comes about 1 or 2 inches above the top fin. then put a little fine grinding paste on the gasket face at the top of the barrel and lower the cylinder head into the paper tube that is taped to the barrel i then rotate the head back and forward a few times this only takes a couple of minutes and cleans up the gasket face on both the barrel and haed.
many here like to use high temp copper silicon gasket goo as a sealent on the barrel and head joint. i have found that loctite works very well if just the tiniest amount is used as a gasket goo (only a few drops spread very thinly) this is what dave webster used to recomend, just keep it off the cylinder studs
|
|